there's two relays inside that relay. one is turned on with the key, and it provides power to the ECU and everything else. the other relay powers the pumps, it might run 1 second when the ignition is turned on, but then it stops til the engine turns over per the hall sensor input.

anyways, if your replacement relay wasn't a Stribel or Volvo branded (also Stribel), I don't trust it.

 

So for ****s and giggles I tried starting the brick without using my jumper switch and she started and ran pumps on and everything. So my question here is when you turn the key to the #2 position aren't you supposed to hear the pumps running for a short time? Mine dosnt. Also the trani od isn't engaging. The arrow light is on and I checked the fuse so its probably the relay right? Where is it? Can I clean/fix it up like the fuel pump relay? And a side request, I'm looking for a set of newer aloy rims for her. I'm in southern Oregon if anyone is looking for some cash.

 

with LH 2.4 at least, the pumps should run a second to prime things when you turn the key on. its not always obvious.


the OD relay on a 240 is tucked in beside the glovebox, kinda just under (over?) the dashboard center console air vent.

the OD light and solenoid are wired kinda weird. light on == solenoid off == OD disabled. light off == solenoid ON == OD enabled.

middle vintage 240 relay positions:
http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/relay_87_240.pdf

the OD relay should look something like this,
http://www.davebarton.com/3523804A_OD_relay.jpg

this article explains the OD relay wiring
http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/240_Ov...AutoRelays.pdf

(note, it says fuse 11, but that can be fuse 4 or other fuses depending on the year).

 

Awesome thank you.

 

wait, fuse 4 is fuel pump. well, its whatever fuse the OD is on

btw, I just realized, your car is a 87, thats LH 2.2... I'm not sure LH 2.2 does pre-prime the fuel pumps.

 

I'm getting the feeling it doesn't because my wife has been driving it all day now without a problem.

 

at most the pre-prime saves maybe 1 second of cranking on a cold motor.

 

So it was the fuse even though it looked and tested fine. Anyway I replaced all fuses. Now on to the blower motor. Does the relay for ac also control the power to the blower? I get nothing when I turn the ****.

 

there's no relay I can think of in the AC circuit. <= wrong, I just looked. anyways it has nothing to do with the fan circuit, it just controls the AC compressor.

anyways, the fan speed **** has as many wires as it has speeds, and these are connected to a resistor pack on the side of the blower. the highest speed goes directly to the blower motor, then each slower speed goes to a different tap on the resistor pack. the blower is smack dab in the middle of hell-err-your dashboard, directly behind the center console, on a 240, a real SOB to access.

make sure you have power on fuse 3 when the ignition is 'on' (or in accessory). the white-black wire off the side of fuse 3 goes to pin 6 on the blower speed controller. (on that fuse block, the right-most aka rear-most spade next to each fuse is the 'input', and the middle row and front/left most spade is the 'output' of the corresponding fuse. many of the fuses have their inputs wired together, like fuses 1,2,3 are all powered by a yellow wire from the ignition switch which is plugged in next to fuse 2.

pin 4 on the switch is 'high' and goes to the motor via a red wire
pin 3 is '3' and is a white wire to the R pack.
pin 2 is '2' and is a brown wire to the R pack
pin 7 is '1' and is a black wire to the R pack.
the R pack also has a blue wire which goes to pin 4 where its connected to the red wire to the fan.

pin 5 of the fan switch is a white-red wire that comes from the AC microswitch, and forces the fan to go on '1' if the AC is turned on.

the R pack gets really hot and can fry, when this happens, usually speed '4' (high) works and the other speeds don't.

 

[QUOTE=pierce;390844]there's no relay I can think of in the AC circuit. <= wrong, I just looked. anyways it has nothing to do with the fan circuit, it just controls the AC compressor.

anyways, the fan speed **** has as many wires as it has speeds, and these are connected to a resistor pack on the side of the blower. the highest speed goes directly to the blower motor, then each slower speed goes to a different tap on the resistor pack. the blower is smack dab in the middle of hell-err-your dashboard, directly behind the center console, on a 240, a real SOB to access.

make sure you have power on fuse 3 when the ignition is 'on' (or in accessory). the white-black wire off the side of fuse 3 goes to pin 6 on the blower speed controller. (on that fuse block, the right-most aka rear-most spade next to each fuse is the 'input', and the middle row and front/left most spade is the 'output' of the corresponding fuse. many of the fuses have their inputs wired together, like fuses 1,2,3 are all powered by a yellow wire from the ignition switch which is plugged in next to fuse 2.

pin 4 on the switch is 'high' and goes to the motor via a red wire
pin 3 is '3' and is a white wire to the R pack.
pin 2 is '2' and is a brown wire to the R pack
pin 7 is '1' and is a black wire to the R pack.
the R pack also has a blue wire which goes to pin 4 where its connected to the red wire to the fan.

pin 5 of the fan switch is a white-red wire that comes from the AC microswitch, and forces the fan to go on '1' if the AC is turned on.

the R pack gets really hot and can fry, when this happens, usually speed '4' (high) works and the other speeds don't.[TE]


OK I'll do some checks. I know that going in there after it is really going to suck a big fat one.

 

well, if you can get to the back of the fan switch, I do believe the first thing I'd do is find that red wire to switch pin 4, unplug it and jumper it to power, see if the fan turns on. if it does, your fan is good, and its a switch or wiring problem. if not, then the fan is bad.