88 740 turbo ..won't pass smog ...egr valve??
 

I just got my car tested and it passed every test besides the NO test at 15 mph ... What I really don't get is that it passed the same test at 25mph . I was told that it was most likely the egr valve but I don't know where it's located ..will I have to take my whole engine apart to change it ?? Could it be anything else ?? I also bought this "garentied to pass" stuff today after the test do you think if I ran that threw my car tomorrow it would pass cause I'm on like the strictest of budgits right now ... Any info would be appreciated

O2 + hho
 

if it is a NOS failure you have a bad O2 sensor . HHO will bring your emissions down so low the inspector will stand there scratching his head , plus give you 30-80 % fuel increase , i have this on my jeep and alot of people say it dosn't work ,but they work for the oil company ! i went from 18mpg to 25mpg ,so i know it works . youtube VOLVO with HHO , VERY simple to make

^^^I have no idea what HHO is but I do know what's wrong with the car and I won't be making stuff up. NOx is caused by high combustion chamber temps. Bad EGR can cause it but for your year car only Cali cars had egr's. So, that leaves an inefficient catalytic converter. Assuming you would rather not spring for a new cat, just set your timing, which should be about 12-14 degrees BTDC back to 8 degrees BTDC. Get tested, go home and bump timing back up. Turbos run rich and that kills cats. Your O2 sensor probably is bad, allowing the ecu to default to a safe, rich mixture...which eventually kills the cat.

I changed the o2 censor today going to get it tested again tomorrow( with the last of my money btw) lol .. So if I turn the timing down it should pass?? How do I do that ?? I'm no machanic lol so if you can put it in dummy terms it would be better lol and hho that looks like it's way complicated and way to much money to do to my car right now but pretty cool little project tho

It's simple on your car. At the base of the distributor, where it meets the block, is a pinch bolt with a nut..10mm, 13mm...I forget. Turning the distributor gently advances or retards the timing. A timing light is best but...loosen the bolt, start the car and make note of the rpm's at idle. While it is running, using a rag to not get shocked (it won't kill ya but is unpleasant) twist the distributor until your idle has dropped roughly 250-300 rpms. If it was idling at 900 it should now idle at around 700-750. That should retard the ignition sufficiently. If yours is an auto and it wants to die now when in drive stopped, you can temporarily idle it back up...but when I did it I just fed the gas a bit until after the inspection. By not messing w/ the idle I knew how much to turn the distributor to get it back to the previous rpm's. Please note your original idle r's or you'll need a timing light (not a bad idea anyway) to get the distributor right again after the inspection.

Alright sounds good but one problom.. My rpm gauge is broke along with everyother gauge lol so I may need that light ..but I have no money for it ...you don't think it will pass with the new o2 censor ??

Just score the distributor base and where it meets the block. You'll always know where to put it in the future.