88 740 turbo ..won't pass smog ...egr valve??
#1
88 740 turbo ..won't pass smog ...egr valve??
I just got my car tested and it passed every test besides the NO test at 15 mph ... What I really don't get is that it passed the same test at 25mph . I was told that it was most likely the egr valve but I don't know where it's located ..will I have to take my whole engine apart to change it ?? Could it be anything else ?? I also bought this "garentied to pass" stuff today after the test do you think if I ran that threw my car tomorrow it would pass cause I'm on like the strictest of budgits right now ... Any info would be appreciated
#2
O2 + hho
I just got my car tested and it passed every test besides the NO test at 15 mph ... What I really don't get is that it passed the same test at 25mph . I was told that it was most likely the egr valve but I don't know where it's located ..will I have to take my whole engine apart to change it ?? Could it be anything else ?? I also bought this "garentied to pass" stuff today after the test do you think if I ran that threw my car tomorrow it would pass cause I'm on like the strictest of budgits right now ... Any info would be appreciated
#3
^^^I have no idea what HHO is but I do know what's wrong with the car and I won't be making stuff up. NOx is caused by high combustion chamber temps. Bad EGR can cause it but for your year car only Cali cars had egr's. So, that leaves an inefficient catalytic converter. Assuming you would rather not spring for a new cat, just set your timing, which should be about 12-14 degrees BTDC back to 8 degrees BTDC. Get tested, go home and bump timing back up. Turbos run rich and that kills cats. Your O2 sensor probably is bad, allowing the ecu to default to a safe, rich mixture...which eventually kills the cat.
#4
I changed the o2 censor today going to get it tested again tomorrow( with the last of my money btw) lol .. So if I turn the timing down it should pass?? How do I do that ?? I'm no machanic lol so if you can put it in dummy terms it would be better lol and hho that looks like it's way complicated and way to much money to do to my car right now but pretty cool little project tho
#5
It's simple on your car. At the base of the distributor, where it meets the block, is a pinch bolt with a nut..10mm, 13mm...I forget. Turning the distributor gently advances or retards the timing. A timing light is best but...loosen the bolt, start the car and make note of the rpm's at idle. While it is running, using a rag to not get shocked (it won't kill ya but is unpleasant) twist the distributor until your idle has dropped roughly 250-300 rpms. If it was idling at 900 it should now idle at around 700-750. That should retard the ignition sufficiently. If yours is an auto and it wants to die now when in drive stopped, you can temporarily idle it back up...but when I did it I just fed the gas a bit until after the inspection. By not messing w/ the idle I knew how much to turn the distributor to get it back to the previous rpm's. Please note your original idle r's or you'll need a timing light (not a bad idea anyway) to get the distributor right again after the inspection.
#6
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