88 volvo 740 oil pan issues

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Old 10-15-2015, 02:26 PM
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Default 88 volvo 740 oil pan issues

Hello everyone.New member here.I have looked around the site but can't find an answer.I am trying to get the oil pan off my 1988 740(bad gasket and stripped plug) flame trap was clogged.I can't get the crossmember nuts off.One of the studs broke free from the tack weld.From what I have read the only other way to get the pan off is to pull the engine.Is it easier to pull engine with tranny attached? What do you recommend? The only manual I have is chilton.I'd appreciate any help
 
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:40 PM
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sadly, there are no good 740/940 shop manuals.

can't help you with your actual question, I leave that kind of heavy work to a mechanic who has lifts and stuff. I mostly deal with electrical and lightweight stuff.
 
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:52 PM
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Thanks anyway.It is my brother's car.I am trying to help him out.I would really like to meet the guy that thought making the oil pan this crazy to remove was a good idea.
 
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:53 AM
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Cut the stud or nut off with a cut off wheel.
 
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:42 PM
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Started to cut the nut but finally got all four out.Took another hour to get the pan out.This is the dirtiest motor I have ever seen.Oil is so crusted on the inside it looks like it was rhino lined.lol
 
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:41 AM
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Default What is this?

When I pulled the transmission bracket that covers the back of the oil pan I found two of the rag things.Are they an actual part or did the previous owner stuff them in there for oil leaks?
 
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RAINMAN69
When I pulled the transmission bracket that covers the back of the oil pan I found two of the rag things.Are they an actual part or did the previous owner stuff them in there for oil leaks?
When the oil flame trap gets plugged the blow by pressures will cause some seals to leak. Usually the front and rear crank seals will start leaking. The front is easy to replace but the rear requires removing the transmission . It appears someone stuck a rag to minimize leakage on the garage floor. It doesn't belong there but it may have been a good temporary fix. So if you are doing the pan you should consider doing the rear seal. By the way once you remove the trans. and flywheel/flex plate the seal is easy to replace.
 
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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Thanks. I already changed out the oil pan gasket and put everything back.There wasn't any fluid on the flywheel.I decided not to pull the tranny to replace the real main seal.This is my brother's car and I know that whatever work is done will be destroyed in a month or two.He drives all vehicles like he is at the drag strip.Even though I have replaced the separator,flame trap,oil pan gasket and all hoses these cars aren't meant to gun the motor like a lunatic especially when you have blow by pressure issues.I know you can get a ton of miles out of them but not the way he drives.Thanks for the help guys.
 
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Old 10-18-2015, 07:21 PM
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our 87 240 with nearly a half million miles has been leadfooted its whole life.
 
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:02 PM
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Driving fast and revving the motor like you are about to do a funny car burnout are two different things.I doubt you are even close to being half as hard on a car as he is on a car or your pretty little 240 wouldn't have the miles you say it does.
 
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