I'm a Volvo wagon owner again I used this forum before but I can't remember my ID so I'm new again......

This car sat for over 2 years because the owner [my parents elderly neighbor whom I bugged to sell it for over a year] said it just stopped running.

I started it with fresh gas down the fuel pressure reguator hose before to see if it would run before paying him more than I wanted to, although still cheap. It started right up with a jump but only ran a few seconds until that fuel was used up.

I had it towed home and pulled the tank to drain the old fuel. I installed a good used in tank sending unit orig was rusted a bit on top], a new in tank pump & sock [I believe the one in there was original ~ very sad looking] and a new under car fuel pump & filter just so I knew all were new. I also added 3 gallons of fresh fuel.

All seemed well and ready to go but when I turned the key, still no start. I checked to see if the FP relay was working and after some jiggling it clicked ['07 date on it so it was replaced t some point]. I turned the key to on and heard the in tank FP pressurize but I smelled gas so I didn't try to start it. A hose had a pinhole so I replaced that. Tried turning the key to on after but no FP noise and no start??????

The FP relay was not clicking now either and won't respond to jiggling.....

Got a known good FP relay and noise supression relay but still no click, no FP noise and no start???????

ECU bad?

I did verify that it will still start with some gas into the FP regulator hose??

 

My first thought at the beginning of all this is maybe the hall effect sensor died. It's about time for it to die. They can go intermittent before they dies to. When the hall effect sensor fails, the fuel pump relay does not energize and you get no spark. The signal from the hall sensor tells the computers that the engine is turning, so the pumps turn on and ignition unit starts firing. If you take the cover off the fuel pump relay (it's really a relay for the fuel injection system in all), and close the contacts with a finger, one of the two will make them pumps run (I don't even think the key needs to be in). If that's the case, you know that power is available, but nothing it telling the relay to close. I likely candidate it that the ignition computer is not detecting engine rotation and not telling the fuel injection computer to wake up. A bad hall sensor kills both fuel and spark on these LH2.2 cars. If you don't have a good bright spark too, I would think it that sensor. I say good bright spark, because my car would spark once or twice really weakly with the bad sensor, then quit. It was never enough to get the car to even sputter.

You may find this an interesting read, my first thread here when my 89 740 Turbo would not start:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...o-start-31332/

You find this link there too, and it is probably what will solve your problem if my solution does not.
Home

Good luck.

 

I appreciate the suggestions, Thanks.

It will run if I put fuel to the rail/fuel pressure regulator. It starts right up and runs good for as long as the fuel lasts. It's got plenty of spark but no fuel or fuel pump noise. It did but now doesn't.

I suspect the ign do hicky right at the battery on the inner fender. I removed the battery to charge it up and maybe I knocked it loose or ?

I'm not where the car is right this moment but I think I need to check in that vicinity as removing the battery to charge it [versus using jumper cables before that] was the last thing I remember doing before there was no power to the pumps.

I'll update once I check that.

 

Try the second link I posted. It's got a flow chart for many problems.

 

The ignition module, ignitor a/k/a do-hickey should kill the spark but not the fuel. Pull the plugs and make sure they aren't wet with fuel. Assuming they are dry and you have spark, then it takes you right back to a fueling issue. Check the fuses. Pull the hose running from the tank to the inline pump...key the switch and see if you get gasoline. Have a drain pan under there and no open flame or sources of combustion please. The fuel should shoot out. If it doesn't, put a volt meter on the intank connectors to see if you're getting power. If you are, the rubber connector from the pump to the hard line may not be tight.If you don't get power, then you need to start working your way back towards the fuse panel and relay to see what's up. If you remove the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the connector on the fuse/relay board to see if the pumps fire. The relay plugs into two parallel sets of three sockets. Jumper the bottom left (closest to you) to the middle socket on the right hand side. Key on or off, as you make the connection you should get a spark and the pumps should run continuously. If they do, and the car will start...you need a new relay. Don't drive around long w/ that jumper...and use a heavy wire...at least 12 gauge.

 

Okay, I got a chance to check a couple things yesterday afternoon. The ignition module/ignitor is fine and I misunderstood its use thinking it controlled spark and fuel.

I have a no fuel issue. I have spark and it will run with fuel administered.

I have power at the bottom of the #1 fuse but not the top, when backprobed??

#11, the in tank pump fuse shows nothing with key on.

No power at FP relay socket when jumped.

I guess its time to get a multimeter and start ruling things out.

Thanks for the help/suggestions and site links

 

Today all of the sudden I have power to the #1 fuse and the inline/under car fuel pump will run if I remove the outer plastic from the FP relay, reinsert it and I physically move the front contact [EM2]. The rear FP relay contact [EM1] doesn't turn on the in tank fuel pump when cranking and I never hear it run [although its difficult to hear]. When cranking, the front [EM2] contact closes/opens intermittantly.

This seems to point to a bad/interment/erratic Hall sensor as I've read that if [EM2] doesn't close with the key in the ON position it usually indicates a bad Hall sensor. The front FP relay contact [EM2] should activate first when the key is on but it doesn't and the [EM1] contact doesn't move with key on and no response if moved manually so no power to the under in tank fuel pump.

The wierd thing is if I just turn the key and try to start it, the inline/under car pump occassionaly runs for a second as soon as I let go of the key [like if it started and release the key]???

Also, very weak spark now.

Its haunted I tell you!

I ordered a NEW Bosch complete distrubutor today with Hall sensor.

I don't mind spending the $ as I bought the car cheap and I hate electronics. At least I'll eliminate that part from the equation.

 

I officially hate this car!

New dizzy now no spark and no start!

I hear the under car pump come on AFTER I let go of the key when cranking [never when just in the on position] and the in tank pump is silent [I think anyway].

Time to call the junk man. I should have left it sit right there where it was!

 

Find a good Volvo tec first if u can get it go and not have 2 much in it $ u will love that car

 

Before you go that route, where at you located at (approximately). Some one may be interested in the car, myself included. I would encourage you to stick with it.

The pumps continue to run after the key is it let off the run position for a second or two. They only start after about 1/2 turn of the engine, but they don't turn on when you go to run.

Did you follow that second link I posted. It directly applies to this vehicle and is an exceptional no start guide for it. Here's a more direct link (straight to the pdf file): http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/Resou...20No-Start.pdf

That fact that fuel pumps are running means the hall effect sensor is good now. I would check the radio suppression relay (it's under the hood), injector ballasts and the fuel pressure regulator (sniff the vacuum line for strong gas smell.

Don't give up, and the car won't either.

 

I posted that more due to frustration than anything but I'm seriously nearing my end with it. I ordered a new dizzy on eBay but the seller sent me a message that it may be 2 weeks to ship so I replied that I would get one elsewhere versus waiting and requested to void the purchase. I spotted a real clean used one on eBay right afterwards for $55 shipped and it was nearby [TN] so I bought it. It arrived yesterday so I removed the old one [Hall sensor was dangling and inside was oil soaked] and installed the "new" one.

Now I have no spark and no start as well as iffy fuel pump operation. Not a big difference as I had intermittant fuel pump operation before.

Before it would start if I gave it fuel directly now it won't [no spark of course].

I did read the step by step Volvo guide which is where I got the fuel pump relay [EM1] and [EM2] operation info. I still get no closing of the front [EM2] when I turn the key to ON and no fuel pump noise so I wouldn't say the fuel pumps are working [correctly anyway] now.

I do hear the under car/inline fuel pump run now when I release the key after cranking and I'm getting fuel to the rail however I'm unsure about the in tank pump.

The FP relay and radio supression relay are new.

Its just frustrating and I'm not good with electricals whatsoever.

My old dizzy cap and rotor look much better than the ones on the "new" one so I plan to switch them out, install a new set of plug wires and..........?? then I'm done.

 

I put a new cap, rotor and plug wires on and its back to the way it was before, not starting unless I introduce fuel at the rail then it will idle a few seconds [and sounds great] until the fuel is used up.

I think the problem Monday was a bad coil wire connection as I had it off, reinstalled it and then had no spark.

It will start if I introduce fuel at the rail so nothing within the engine management system except something effecting fuel delivery would be the cause.

I'm back to square one and will go through the fuel system once more.

I have spark.

The fuel pumps don't seem right to me.

I've read so much that I'm confusing myself.

When the key is turned to ON, should I hear one of pumps energize for a few seconds or not?

If so, which one.

Is the inline/under car fuel pump supposed to run only during cranking and once started?

Once started [if I ever get there], should both pumps continue running or?

If I undue the fitting at the fuel rail I do get fuel after 10 seconds or so of cranking but nothing pressurized or of the required volume to start a fuel injected vehicle.

 

When you turn the key on, both fuel pumps should energize for about 1sec. Sitting in the car with the driver's door open, you should be able to hear the main pump (the one under the car) run and then shut off. To hear the tank pump, you may have to go into the trunk or take off the gas cap and listen there when someone else turns on the key.

Once the car starts, both pumps should be running.

If your pumps do not always run when you turn the key on, you might want to check your ECU. The ECU provides the signal that energizes the fuel pump relay. Back in '89, some cars had "pink label" ECUs. These ECUs have been known to have problems with the fuel circuit failing.

Keep plugging - you will solve this

 

Thanks for your input.

When I turn the key on I can hear and feel the FP relay click. If I take the top of the relay off and re-insert it in the fuse panel I can see the front portion of the relay close.

I never hear either FP come on when I turn the key to ON position.

The only time I ever hear anything is when I'm cranking it and release the key, then I hear the inline/under car FP run for a split second and stop.

I don't think the in tank FP is running at all and from what I've read the inline/under car FP will not start the car unless there's over 1/2 tank.

When you say ECU, which one? I understand there's one up under the drivers side dash area and one under the passenger side dash area for my year [behind the passenger kick panel for prior years].

I was thinking it might be a bad ground somewhere?

When I first installed the new in tank pump and prior to replacing the in tank FP sending unit [due to rust on top and pinholes] I heard the in tank pump pressurize [but if I remember it only ran when cranking, not an initial pressurization with key in ON positon] and I could see gas spraying out the pinholes which is why I replaced the sending unit.

With the help of my wife, I rechecked the wiring back there and tested it with my test light but I never get power either with the key ON or while cranking.

Nothing would suprise me

 

I must admit, I am not as familiar with the setup in the 740 Turbos as I am in the normally aspirated engines. I'm pretty sure from reading that the fuel setup in yours is an LH 2.2 Jetronic system. In this system, both pumps should run momentarily when the key is turned to the On position. Once you start cranking, I believe they both run continuously and should remain running once the car is started.

If you you don't hear at least the main pump running when the key is on or when cranking, then this is the source of your problem. The in-tank pump is just a pump that gets the fuel to the main pump. The main pump is the one that provides the pressure for the fuel system.

At this point I think the best thing to do is to get a wiring diagram and thoroughly go through the fuel circuit until you can get both pumps running under the circumstances described above. If you don't have a diagram, there are a couple of users here that can usually post a pdf for you.

Good luck

 

Please don't give up. So many people do...that's why I've never paid more than $300 for a Volvo! Generally I have them running in 30 minutes to an hour. It's extremely difficult to diagnose these things over the internet...but do NOT give up hope! Hang in there and we will fix this issue together and you will have one fun car with not a ton of money in it.
Some of this will be redundant, but yes, the fuel pumps always run if the car is running. They are on a timer that shuts them off after 2-3 seconds when you do the key on, engine off routine. If you immediately try the key on, engine off position again, the pumps will not run. That prompts many people to presume that the pumps are pressure sensitive and that once the pressure builds, the pumps kick off but that isn't the case...it's a timer. While typically you can hear the pump(s) run, I've found that some Volvos have extremely quiet pumps. To hear the intake pump run, usually removing the gas cap and holding your ear to the filler hole while someone switches the key to on is sufficient. Rarely, the pump is so quiet it is necessary to use a length of vac hose as a stethoscope to hear the intank pump. The under car pump can be so quiet that I've had to physically lay my hand on the pump to feel it run while someone hits the key. Remember, the timer will typically preclude you from engaging the pump this way more than once every so many minutes. It is possible to remove the fuel pump relay and jumper the socket so power goes to both pumps continuously. After pulling the relay, insert a jumper wire from the first socket on the left row( closest to you) to the middle socket on the right row. Use a 12 gauge wire as there is quite a bit of power there. What that will do is remove the relay from the equation and provide constant power to the circuit. The circuit will be energized regardless of the key position. You could then trace where the juice stops on the way to the pumps. Also, if the pumps fire then there might be an issue with the ignition switch...

 

I'll look for a fuel system diagram but with my very limited knowledge of electronic and/or tools to diagnose electronics, I'm not sure how much it will help.

I found my ECU behind the passenger kick panel [where I read it wouldn't be?] and its a JETRONIC w/ a BOSCH label # 0 280 000 541

I had my test light in hand and every fuse tests good except the #11 in tank fuel pump fuse.

I get no light on my test light with the key in the ON position with the fuse installed or testing the socket intself ~ #11 in tank FP fuse.

I did crank the car with the #11 fuse out with my test light in the #11 lower fuse socket and it will very dimly light when cranking and brightly light the second I release the key. It will not light in the upper part of the #11 fuse socket no matter what.

I hear nothing from the in tank pump at all but I don't believe its getting power.

I need to figure out what powers that #11 fuse socket when the key is in the ON position.

The FP relay clicks on one side only as far as I can tell. I've got 3 FP relays and they all do the same thing.

 

Look at the pic and follow it. This is Volvo's guide on checking your fuel pumps for that exact year of car. You can see fuses 1,2,11,12 and 13 on the diagram as well as the fuel pump relay and both pumps. The very lowest object in the drawing is the main pump and the next lowest just to the right is the in-tank pump.

In my car, which is as close a match to your car as it gets, the fuel pumps do not start until the engine turns over at least a little. Different fuel injection systems on these cars do it differently, but you computer (which is the same p/n as mine) waits for a signal from the ignition computer to tell the fuel injection computer, let's go! These car's with so many different systems make it hard some time to tell.

Swift suggested jumping #30 to #87/2 to energize the pumps manually (like he said they will start regardless of key position, as long as the battery is connected it has power). Instead of jumping it, I pull out the relay and with two small screwdrivers, I can pop the cover off. Then you can see bother contractors. Then I plug it back in and use my finger to close the one that runs the fuel pumps. Both pumps should start and fuse 11 should have power. If they don't, you can check contact #30 for power and safely hop under the car and test the feeds for the pumps for power to see if it's getting to them with an assistant closing the contact. You can goes through the whole procedure in the pic and find your problem.

 

Thanks for the help, I really do appreciate it.

I have a feeling I've got a bad in tank pump out of the box [ACDelco] or since I thought I heard it run a couple times it overheated and failed? Maybe the Hall sensor was going out or erratic too, [it was pretty oily in there] and added to the no start condition?

Knowing now that my type of ignition/computer system doesn't turn on the pumps while the key is in the ON position makes sense. Like I said, I do get a faint light on my probe test light in fuse #11 but only during cranking.

I just removed the in tank sending unit and with a direct 12V to the pump its silent.

The worst part of any of this [aside from the part where my wife said repeatedly ["are you sure the new pump is good" ~ days ago] was removing/installing the sending unit with the tank installed. I had originally removed the tank to drain the old gas out and clean it so I had plenty of space to work but with the tank in, its just a pain in the butt. The sending unit rubber seal was a bear but I should have a good grasp of how it best goes in now to make it less work this time

Well, I'm off to the parts store in the a.m. to get a new in tank pump [I bought the ACDelco off eBay thinking it would be a better quality]. I've used Autozone's AirTex brand before with good service in our Tahoe and in another vehicle, I hope I do again with this one.

 

Well, I had a good feeling about working on the Volvo today and getting it to run so I went to the auto parts store and got a new fuel pump & strainer, installed it, buttoned everything up and the %$@!#& still won't start.

I hear BOTH pumps after I begin to crank it over and I hear them BOTH for a second after I stop cranking.

I put a little gas in the FP regulator vacuum hose like I have been doing to get it to start and VAROOM it starts right up just like always and runs until it used up [4-5 seconds].

I pulled the main fuel line just before the inline/under car pump, placed a container under it then cranked it a little and there's plenty of gas.

I reinstalled that, pinched the big FP reg hose thinking maybe its FP regulator related but nothing, not even an attempt to start, just cranks.

I have not done a fuel pressure test because I'm missing the fittings I need for my FP tester [every other car I had, had a schrader valve on the rail].

Injectors not firing???

I've about had all I can take.