Do not use any Lowes hardware on your engine, its chinese junk made of soft pot metal


re: your check engine light, see https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...agnosticCodesi and follow the "DTM 1' procedure to read the codes from the little box on the left fender hump under the hood. said box has sa jumper, a button and a LED. you plug the jumper into various holes to read various subsystem codes, most important is 2 for fuel injection, and 6 for ignition. its usually a good idea to read and write down all the codes, then clear them so you just get 1-1-1, then see if the CEL comes back on, and read them again. if they recur like this, its an ongoing problem and not just a random transient glitch

 

If it overheated, that could cause your check engine light, you could disconnect the battery, after making sure you have the radio code, this will clear the codes, then run it again and see if any show up... If it reoccurs, more investigation time, if it doesn't, you know its a ghost from a previous incident. I'd flush and reverse flush your coolant system, possibly be prepared to source a clean radiator, as sometimes stop leak stuff clogs em up, if the radiator is a tad silted thru poor anti freeze mixture. Have a bash at replacing all the fluids, basic service items, clear those codes, get the exhaust clamped up, another potential source of your check engine light, make the old girl feel loved again, and you may well be surprised at how little is wrong. Rear calipers are a pretty common fail, inner pistons seize, they can be rebuilt or replaced with good scrapyard ones, as long as they're not seized too, just fit new seals and clean em up first. It's a time intense few tasks, but that's where a workshop would make it unviable, whereas you'll be doing it for free, labour cost wise, so it's just consumables, and you'll be spending that, anyway. I've resurrected a fair few dead 940s, and all most of them needed really, was a good thorough service and a bit of fettling. The water leak, if it's not leaking at present, you could leave until you do a belt change, which I'd do reasonably soon, as its always best to assume that it hasn't been done, unless you have paperwork to support it having been done recently. I'd imagine, with a fairly minimal outlay, on good quality parts and fluids, you'll discover you've got a diamond in the rough there.

 

This dude is just clowning yall and yall keep falling for it!!
knowledge is sacred dont waste it.
He justs keeps listing random things lol

 

Ain't there an old expression about the pot and the kettle 🤔?

 

Knowledge is only sacred when controlled and kept by a self appointed elite from those who need it to live a complete and happy life.

 

Hmmm well just wait what he asks next.
and your quote was wack and illogical and counterproductive!! Oss Goldenblock the non conformist

 

thanks to those of you have offered helpful advice and thoughts. I appreciate your time and help.

 

Hope it helps a little.

 

so i am running into an issue where the but for the negative (blue) wire off the alternator is twisting the wire itself and won't back off the bolt... i don't want to put channel locks or pliers on the wire for fear of damaging it, but is there some technique I am not aware of?

 

put a bit of a penetrant like Kroil or PB Blaster on it and let it soak in ?

 

Okay, new question. what's the thought on the silicone hose upgrades, like from do88, IPD and others? I need to replace at least the turbo control valve tubing and a few vacuum lines. IPD seems to have some cheap options; but pricing out a complete tubing replacement from do88 is like $900! of course that's for all the tubing - radiator, pcv, air intake, oil cooler, etc. Are those tubes really worth it?

for what it's worth, the overall condition of the tubes in this 940 appears decent at best.

 

I've always stuck with the stock hoses, they last a very long time and are quite good quality. all that colored silicone stuff is for tweakers.

 

so I took the intake manifold to clean the block. there's a lot of gunked up oil on the block, perhaps resulting from a blocked pcv system? there was no flame trap in the pcv piping, but with this amount of crud, I am wondering if I should replace the oil separator box to be safe.


gunked up connector

engine block gunk

 

turbos don't have flame traps, just oil seperator boxes and a hose connecting the oil sep. box to the intake hose before the turbo

i'd clean up the block with some foaming engine cleaner, then put some fluorescent dye in the oil, and run it for a short period, then see where it glows under a UV flashlight... most oil leaks are from the valve cover or camshaft seals.