Hi

I'm new here (obviously) and have been reading a lot recently. Great threads with lots of info, what i'm about to ask has probably been done to death, i have a good understanding but not quite 100% on certain things..so will try and summarise easily.

I've got a '97 940 2.3(lpt) and know that fitting an mbc & gauge will allow me to run more boost above the 4psi stock level. I'm not particularly interested in running very high boost just something with a bit more kick out the car. Its only done 101k so in pretty good condition.

I'm looking at buying one of the turbosmart tee boost controller & boost gauge to fit and have a couple of questions. First on the mbc;

Looking at where the turbo is inside the engine bay i believe i've identified the pipe which connects to the wastegate actuator. Its the v short one to the front of the turbo - as yet i haven't managed to have a full proper look, thats planned for this weekend. In order to fit the mbc this pipe is removed and replaced with the new hose for the mbc and then fitted accordingly (ensuring round the correct way etc). Am i right here?

The second one is the gauge, now i don't want to run massive boost as i said but from reading around its more or less essential to install a boost gauge. No problem with this - just considering the practicalities.

1) where is the most convienient place to connect to a vacuum hose on the b230fk?
2) does anyone have pictures of it?
3) how is the hose pulled inside the car - are there redundant holes within the firewall that can be used?
4) where is the easiest place to install inside the cabin? I was thinking lhs of steering wheel? I don't however have any clue at present how to take the dash etc apart.
5) power source, i believe needs to be soldered into something which turns on when the engine goes on. Again what is considered most convenient? i think i read the dimmer can be used however this is on the opposite side from installation point in my car. Alternatively i was looking at the rhs fan - how hard is it to install in there?

Apologies for the long winded first post, just want to be sure its done correctly and prior to doing any work i need it clear in my head what needs to be done.

Any help would be very much appreciated - photos would help too, i've seen a few and worked out what goes where. It's understanding the whole process i need to confirm.

Cheers
Ron

 

does the 97 have a stock gauge for vacuum and boost?
if yes, then you can tap into that hose (it will be the only vacuum line coming from the gauge cluster). other wise, you will need to feed a vacuum hose through the firewall plugs near the driver side.
You can use one of the ports on the manifold for the gauge.
Use the smaller hose (stock boost gauge) under the biggest hose (brake booster).



10psi will be plenty. I ran 10psi with out the chips, car learned fairly quickly.
I am currently at 12psi (use to be 15psi), and still enjoy the pull.

this is the hose I used for the MBC. I replaced it with the silicone hose sent with the MBC.

Before:

After:


This is all you should need to remove from the dash to install the gauge.

before:


After

this looks like a mess, but dont worry, it is fairly simple.

This is the lower side under the drive. There is a plastic piece for the pedals (2 twist screws), a cover, color of the interior, which hides the knee guard (3 screws, i believe T40s), and the black metal knee guard (which has 5 screws, i believe T40s).

for power, you can pop out the trim piece holding the light switch, and use one of thoes wires as the power source. you will need to check which wire works with the switch. for the ground, I think I just used one of the connectors where that green wire is in the last pic to the left of the brake pedal.

I would install the Boost gauge first. make sure the readings are good at stock level, and you have no vacuum leaks. Then you can pop the hood and install the MBC.

good luck

 

Thanks! Exactly what i was looking for, clears a lot of things up in my head on how to go about it. Much appreciated TIPSP.

The 97 lpt doesnt have a stock boost gauge, however the b230fk is same as the b230ft (which came with stock boost gauge) so i assume that the vacuum location is identical, it's just not used on the lpt (at present). Will investigate when i go outside and pop the hood.

Looks like i'll need to put a bit of time aside for installation of the gauge but that's ok. Agree on the approach of installing it first and checking stock level (supposed to be 4psi).

In regards to the mbc - when you remove the stock hose and replace with the ones which come with the mbc i assume it's best to clamp them back onto the turbo/wastegate connection as well as the mbc itself to ensure nothing blows off. Its not quite clear in the pic but i think this is what you've done.

10psi sounds nice - does that push it up to around 180bhp?

Thanks again for the advice (and pics!)

 

My MBC has 4 teeth on the Barb Fitting (it is a really tight fit), so I only reused the clamps on the wastegate, and compressor side.

it should be about 180crank. You will need a dyno to know for sure, but the general rule is ~7-10hp per 1psi.

what are you doing to mount the gauge?

 

Not sure about the gauge yet. I had a look at the engine and there are two small bolts where you've shown the vacuum pipe connection. The lpt doesn't come with a stock boost gauge. I assume one of these can come off and be used for the vacuum?

Inside the car i'll strip the trim driver side, not sure i'll mount it inside the car tho. Was thinking rhs fan/vent but not sure whats under the dash trim etc to get the hose up there?

 

i believe your refering to the manifold for the bolt, then yes. you can use them. it is easier to find a current vacuum line and tap in there so you can use the T fitting to branch to the boost gauge.

if i remember correctly, you can run a hose up through the vent.

 

I'll get a picture of the block and let you see where i was referring to, would be easier to tap into a vacuum line tho.

Is there an engine map type diagram for the b230fk/t engines which explains exactly what is what?

 

Yes. there should be a vacuum diagram sticker in the engine bay. I forgot where it is located though.

 

Just to follow up on this a bit, the B230fk doesn't have any hoses coming out of the two connections you've shown on the below pic. If i was to install a boost gauge to the block is this the correct place? Also, what is the actual connection made with, some form of nipple? I'll try and get a photo of the block in mine over the weekend.

 

You can use any of the fittings:

(another manifold i have)


Post a pic of yours when you can. It is easier that way.

 

Thanks for your help with this. Ok the manifold looks as follows;


I assume i can tap into one of the two spare ports, what is the name of the fitting used to attach the hose to the manifold? The engine is a need of a clean!

The waste gate feed hose is as per below, from the above this is removed and replaced with new hose and the mbc;



I noticed there seems to be a spare duct leading through the fire wall as well. I haven't as yet removed the cover below the steering wheel etc to see where it might terminate but i assume i may be able to use and feed the hose through it for link into the car or the boost gauge? If so i'll probably do this first and see what boost its currently at.






thanks again for your help.

 

Yes you can undo either of those two bolts and use the port, but you will need a barb type fitting to screw in there.

You can just use the hoses (I would use the blue in the below pic) to tap into with a T-connecter that should come with the boost gauge. just cut the current hose in to piece where you want it and install the t-fitting and run the other line through the firewall.



something like this:


Yes, that is a good choice.

Yes. I would run the boost gauge hose through one of those. make sure you have a good seal against the hose.

sure thing...

good luck.

 

Do you happen to know what size the vacuum hose is? The one going from inlet manifold to the turbo?

The T i have with the boost gauge i have looks a bit small for the existing hose and i'm reluctant to just cut into it without knowing for sure. The bolts are extremely tight on the manifold to undo and check the T as is. I think i will need some penetrating oil to even think about trying it properly, don't want it to snap off.

The thinking is i could just check the T against another bit of hose so i know it will fit and then cut into the hose.

The boost valve didn't come with a hose either so i'll need to get one as i want to run it up and bolt onto the air box so will need a new hose. Are they the same size by any chance....?

 

I believe it's 4mm?

 

The Hose I got is 4mm.

Yes, I just checked and I can get the 4mm hose on both the fittings you're refering too.

Sounds like all you will need to get is some 4mm silicone vacuum hose, and you will be set. Probably want to get ~4 feet, which should give you plenty of leftovers.

Again, i would just tap into the hose instead of trying to remove one of the bolts...mych easier and your T-Fitting should work. Like you said, Try it on a different hose first to make sure that it will fit.

 

Well it all fits fine. Cut into the hose and installed the plastic tee, going to get a brass one eventually tho as it seems a bit weak.

Idling it reads about -20, using the mbc the boost is running about 8.5-9 and there's a noticeable difference once above 2500rpm as you'd expect.

The only thing i haven't done yet is wire it up, i've installed it on LHS of steering wheel within the switch panel. My car only has the rear heater switch there and 3 spares so i cut 2 out and installed the gauge in the resultant hole. Looks good enough, trimmed the hose so it fits nicely below steering etc clear of pedals.

Now the rear heater switch has it's own separate bulb attached, i'm thinking this is a power source as it's right next to the gauge. There is a blue and a white wire; nothing is obvious to me what is +ve. Guess my final question would be do i connect an earth from gauge to earthing point and then use either of the wire to connect to gauge? If one doesn't work guess i'll just try the other. What's the best way to connect into the wire? Can it be done without soldering...?

 

Earth goes to a chassis ground. You will have to somehow test the wires for the switch to see which allows for power with ignition and power when you turn on the lights. You can get a probe which tells you if a wire is hot or a ground, which would be useful to see in this case.

You don't have to solder it, but make sure it is a tight connection. You will need electrical tape.
Soldering is fairly easy.

 

I'll get my hands on some wire, was going to use the earth below the trim shown on your car on page 1. I think i have a soldering gun somewhere, will do it in due course.

Pre installation of the mbc in noticed the car making a slight 'dump' noise, not quite like a dump valve swoosh but it's releasing air somewhere when foot comes off the throttle. Any ideas?

I don't think the 940 has a diverter valve, it has a valve of another name - either way it prevents boost going back to the turbo when the throttle plate closes and potentially damaging the turbo.

The car feels solid but this noise is pestering me. I did open the air box vent on the wing side recently but not sure this would affect this - more air getting in = more to dump = more noticeable? Its the only thing thats changed on the car apart from the mbc (fitted today); the noise doesnt seem to be getting any louder at bigger boost tho. No idea what it is.

Thanks for all your help by the way, had a look through your thread. Nice tank. Good luck with the 240!

 

The turbo has a CBV on it, and if you opened the box up a little (I assume you mean cut the box to let more air in?) then yes, you would hear it more. I Put a cone filter on mine, and you can clearly hear it. Another possiblity, but not likely, is the MBC you have has a dump feature which vents boost. I really doubt it is that...

Thanks, it is a good car. nothing crazy, but a decent dailydriver. And now it has that stereo in it, I love driving it, but my bro needs it now. I will deeply miss DD'ing, but I really like the 240...

As for the wiring, you can get away with a volt meter(if you have one). you can remove the switch, and check the resistance of each connecter to see which is hot for you wire.

Good luck!

 

I have a stock 940 turbo 1991 i want to get a manual boost controller will i blow up my engine turning up the boost. And how do i know how much to turn it up because i have a boost gauge but not sure how to read it yet? and where does the mbc get installed at this is my first turbo car so im new at it. thanks