940 speedometer problems any Help out there?
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940 speedometer problems any Help out there?
HI I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, my main problem is the speedometer and odometer stop working, and if I tap on the dash near the speedo it works again, But this is starting to be a pain in the knuckles as it can happen 1 or 8 times during a short trip any ideas Please, Thanks Phil
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90 740 Volvo speedometer problems
I have a 1990 740 base wagon speedometer was erratic for a time , from zero to 60 and would just stop all of a sudden. It would not work for awhile and then when I hit a bump in the road it would start working again. Then it would stop like it had a loose connection. Odometer does not work either, sometimes I would drive as many as 30 miles with it not working , then all of a sudden it would work for 3 miles or so and then stop. What would be causing this problem?
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It is run off an electronic pick up in the rear end which may have gotten chafed or damaged but most likely it's the electronics in the speedometer itself, the capacitors. They need to be replaced--a fiddly piece of work which may or may not be successful in the end. You can try speedometer shops; new the speedos are very costly.
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front wheel sensors are for ABS. all models of 240/740/940 have the speedometer pickup in the differential (except early 240's with mechanical speedometers)
the speedo connector is a 3 pin thing that fits directly onto the back of the speedometer module within the instrument panel. it has + (power), speedo signal, and ground.
the speedo connector is a 3 pin thing that fits directly onto the back of the speedometer module within the instrument panel. it has + (power), speedo signal, and ground.
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Is the speedometer pickup the same as the speedometer sensor? I noticed that if you pull it out of the differential , I would have to move a metal beam of some sort to be able to pull it out. If the wiring part comes separate , I would like to just replace it without having to take out the beam or loosen one side.
Last edited by Daano47; 12-03-2014 at 11:17 PM. Reason: getting rid of repetition
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that 'beam' is the panhard rod...
As I said before, there should be a plug right at the sensor/sender/pickup (all names for same thing)... it has two pins, two wires, that form a 'twisted pair' (the ground and signal wire are twisted together, this improves noise immunity). If I'm remembering correctly, there's a couple feet of wire, then another connector somewhere in the truck area, then the wires that go up to the dash.
As I said before, there should be a plug right at the sensor/sender/pickup (all names for same thing)... it has two pins, two wires, that form a 'twisted pair' (the ground and signal wire are twisted together, this improves noise immunity). If I'm remembering correctly, there's a couple feet of wire, then another connector somewhere in the truck area, then the wires that go up to the dash.
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both mine do. i assume they are there to keep them from working loose, there's a lot of vibration on the rear axle when you're on a rough road at speed.
always use quality brand (G-B or equiv) BLACK UV protected tiewraps in automotive applications. the usual white ones will crumble in a couple years.
always use quality brand (G-B or equiv) BLACK UV protected tiewraps in automotive applications. the usual white ones will crumble in a couple years.
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wild guess says its on there with fairly high torque, so you'd better have a 1/2" drive 6-point socket, and a suitable torque wrench to replace it.
ah, service docs say 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) for either end of the 700/900 live axle track rod (aka panhard rod). that not quite as high as I guessed it might be. some of the other rear end bits are 105 ft-lbs.
ah, service docs say 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) for either end of the 700/900 live axle track rod (aka panhard rod). that not quite as high as I guessed it might be. some of the other rear end bits are 105 ft-lbs.
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