The seller had some title work to clean up tomarrow

Ebay Auction Link Showing Car

So I thought I hop on & get your opinions- $1,750 Price

The air didn't blow cold but otherwise very solid just alot of little cosmetics needs & she test drove real nice!

Oh yeah engine service light stayed on [sm=violin.gif]

I can do most all work except tranny & engine machine ( kinda of green on automotive computers)

Input appreciated

 

I bought a 740gl(basically the same) ~2months ago and have been very happy thus far. I've only had minor maintenance and repair work done. These items include a new exhaust system, cap,rotor,plugs,plug wires,oil and filter, air filter,tranny flush. I've also found many little items at junk yards, its been very easy finding inexpensive parts. I'm by no means an authority but from my experience with volvo I would recommend it. Everyone says if you take care of them they will last forever. Mine has 135000miles with original tranny and engine. Hope my input helps-good luck.

 

Anyone know if I have to go under the dash how hard the underdash ac pluming is to access?

thanks

 

Nice wagon! Especially for the price,that's a steal.The AC probably just needs a new accumulator and orifice tube ,followed by an evact and charge. Maybe flush the lines and condenser. Shouldn't have to get under/in the dash. Hopefully the service reminder light just needs to be reset. You can do that from the drivers seat. Good luck!

 

So I tell the seller ok I'll come buy to look her over and make sure she's cold for I'll want to see how she starts cold. Everythings fine took her for another 25 minute test drive.

Closed the deal-

Road the next 30 minutes in slow moving traffic and then picked up speed for another 15 minuets-


Parked her at publix went in for ten minutes - and she wouldn't start[:@]

So we ate our publix subs in the lot and tried to get her to start she fired up one time and held her at 3k for 30 secounds but she just sputtered out-

Abandoned her in the lot & went back today still no start just a spit & sputter-once-
I have come to find out this car has sat alot-

and the owner didn't do the work himself but said it may need a distibutor cap

Also a recent in tank fuel pump and but now complete flush

She's home in the driveway ( wife helped me tow her -good woman driver[8D])

And time to Diagnose

Would I be wise to buy a scanner code or checker-?

Any help or thoughts appreciated-

 

You don't need a scanner on a 95 940, here's how you retrieve the codes

troublecodes.net/Volvo/

The capsule with the test lead is for the engine codes, the other one is for the cruise control.

Have fun

 

[sm=happy046.gif][sm=happybounce.gif][sm=icon_cheers.gif][sm=americanasmiley.gif]

So she coded for the rpm engine sensor searched for a couple of pics with google-

I found her on the bell housing area and where she first plugged in along the fire wall,

Checked that connection & she fires up first time just after replugging-

SO I plugged her on & off acouple of times & squirted some anti corrosion stuff in there till I can get my electrical grease-

So I started her up a few times and took a drive

Thanks!!!!

 

Well we've put a hundred miles or so on her & she is doing good - ( to ne safe I prbably shoud replace that rpm thing)

Getting just about 21 MPG around town with some highway-

Time to get the AC working-

Symptoms-

AC light in Panel does not come on when depressed-

Compressor not cycling-

Fully charged?

Where to start?

Thanks-

 

The A/C control head might be bad on the car.

 

What is your low side system pressure at rest? IF you working under the assumption that is has a full charge, you will not know unless you have a gauge on it. It could have been charged yesterday, but leaked out overnight. IF you have at least 40psi, then turn on the ac control switch and check for voltage at the low side pressostat at the accumulator. If no volts, work backwards toward the head unit and the infamous circuit board. If you gots volts, work forward to the compressor to find the problem/s and/or check continuity on the switch itself.

 

You will have power at the low pressure switch on one side wether you have freon in the system or not.

But if you have no lights on the control unit most likely it is bad.

 

Well, FWIW my A/C control switch works but the light inside doesn't. The recirculate button DOES light however. I guess Tech means, if none of the lights work?

Mine had the solder re-flowed in April. Here's a description of the problem:

Climate Control Board Problem


HTH

 

Hello Tech; Yep, I am aware of that, but I had seen where the gentleman? had posted on another Volvo board, and reported that the light was on, but the compressor was not cycling.

 

Yes, it is as you say (My wife agrees with you but I think few phone solicaters would)[sm=smiley8.gif]

After looking at night I realized the button does Glow-

[ul][*] I can get the Clutch to Engage If I straight wire it-[*] My pressure is right at 45 & holding[*] No volt reading at the hot wire to the ac compressor[*] I've taken the dash appart & all but disconnected the back of the AC control panel.

It seems as though my reading has given me a thing or 2 to still check before I disect the AC board for solder check?
[/ul]

Thanks for keeping me on track!

 

Keep us posted.

 

A rainy day-

Thrashed on the ac - ended up soldering the board in the control unit

I could then start hear it click when the ac was depressed but still no engaging clutch

I shorted out the line at the pressure swith & the the clutch engaged.

Kinda started to think it was the pressure switch

Took it out bench tested after a lube job with a drop of tranny oil. Working fine.

So I pop her back in and dropped about a can & a half of 134 in her

she's almost cold & i get the blower cut out upon accelration syndrom-

Thanks all!!

At least making progress but I've lost my base line on how much 134 to ad being I've just got one of those cheesy one guage on the can jobs - & ya'll have me paranoid bout blowin something up[sm=yikesomg.gif]

 

It should hold almost 2 LBS.