Accessory Wire in the Dash?
#1
Accessory Wire in the Dash?
So, on my 1992 240, when I first bought it, it needed a new stereo put in because the previous owner said the stereo got stolen from it. No big deal really... however the accessory wire that would turn the stereo off with the car is no longer there because it probably got ripped out with the stereo, so I just had to use the continuous power. It wasn't a big deal until now because I just had to remember to shut the stereo off. Well, just today I had an amp and subs installed in my car. Since that wire isn't there, the amp doesn't turn off with the car, instead you have to pull a fuse to turn it off. So basically I'm wondering if anyone has an idea of what i could do to get an accessory wire or something of the such so I don't have to pop the hood each time to turn off my amp.
Any advice is appreciated!
Any advice is appreciated!
#2
the amp should have a blue 'control' wire you run up to a blue 'amp control' wire on the stereo, so when the stereo is off, it shuts off the amp.
a sub amp draws way too much power to be run directly off accessory wire.
According to the greenbook, the original 1992 240 stereo setup got its power from a green wire to fuse 8 (always on) and its control power from a yellow-black wire to fuse 1 (which is switched with the ignition). both these signals (along with the factory front speaker wires) come off a connector thats under the driver side dashboard, just right of the steering column. the factory rear speakers are on a smaller connector 'F' right next to this connector G.
connector G:
left front + = yellow-white, - = white
right front + = yellow-grey, - = grey
connector F:
left rear + = yellow-brown, - = green-brown
right rear + = green-yellow, - = green-grey
a sub amp draws way too much power to be run directly off accessory wire.
According to the greenbook, the original 1992 240 stereo setup got its power from a green wire to fuse 8 (always on) and its control power from a yellow-black wire to fuse 1 (which is switched with the ignition). both these signals (along with the factory front speaker wires) come off a connector thats under the driver side dashboard, just right of the steering column. the factory rear speakers are on a smaller connector 'F' right next to this connector G.
connector G:
left front + = yellow-white, - = white
right front + = yellow-grey, - = grey
connector F:
left rear + = yellow-brown, - = green-brown
right rear + = green-yellow, - = green-grey
#4
the way the factory stereo was wired, there was a harness from those connectors F and G under the driver side dash that ran over to the stereo (on top) and the factory amp/equalizer (on the bottom). the wire colors in those harnesses as I gave above are the same as the wire colors going nito connectors F and G.
and yes, your amp should have a remote-control signal hooked up to a wire coming out of your stereo, usually blue-white on the stereo (blue with a white stripe). the solid blue wire from the stereo is the power antenna control wire.
and yes, your amp should have a remote-control signal hooked up to a wire coming out of your stereo, usually blue-white on the stereo (blue with a white stripe). the solid blue wire from the stereo is the power antenna control wire.
#6
well, blue from the stereo is antenna control. blue-WHITE is amp control. if the stereo doesn't have the blue-white, AND the antenna control is on even if you're playing a CD or aux in or whatever, then you can use blue for both. the $100-ish Alpine I just installed on my 745T has both wires, and the antenna control is only on if you are listening to the radio, its down if you're on CD or aux or USB.
#8
assuming your subwoofer amp is like 100 watts RMS, I *never* power those off the car wiring, I run my own heavy gauge power wire with its own fuse from the 'positive terminal' to the amp.. if its a real high power amp, I'll come right off the battery. I'll run a heavy gauge ground wire directly from the chassis to the amp too.
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