almost have it fixed one more thing
So im looking for help again here is what has been replaced
cap rotor wires plugs o2 sensor fuel filter in tank pump turbo swap from M22 to M27 water cooled vacuum line from throttle body to dist cut the cracked end off of the other vacuum line on the throttle body also removed the cat because the weld at the top cracked all the way around Problem. 82 244 turbo doesn't feel like its building horse power. I can see on the boost guage that it is building boost to where it was before. It runs real smooth idles real smooth doesn't have any hesitation after i changed and fixed the vacuum lines. Im getting really lost here. The only thing left to replace is fuel injectors but at around $300-$400 in parts i dont want to replace them and have that not be the issue. Is there anything else that it could be. I was thinking about swapping out the intank pump again incase it got messed up when the hose popped off of it and it was almost just dangling in the tank by the wires. ANything else to check please help thanks guys. I am going to start a build thread once i have the damn thing running good enough that i dont want to sell it. |
what do you mean by not building power? the stock 82 engine is not that powerful.
I put the upgraded waste gate and added an intercooler to my old 82. Then it started to move about decently. 10-12psi. that is still only ~160hp...... I don't remember what housing that turbo has, but if it is the .63 exhaust housing, then you will have to be higher in rpms to see the build. stock older version is .43 |
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428446)
what do you mean by not building power? the stock 82 engine is not that powerful.
I put the upgraded waste gate and added an intercooler to my old 82. Then it started to move about decently. 10-12psi. that is still only ~160hp...... I don't remember what housing that turbo has, but if it is the .63 exhaust housing, then you will have to be higher in rpms to see the build. stock older version is .43 |
Tough to say. Strange it happened after the intank pump went in... The timing is in check?
The car goes fine up to ~50mph, then it feels like a wall? Or it accelerates, but you don't notice the turbo pulling past 50 mph? Injectors are easy and cheap to clean. Depending on where you are located. The distributor and car is where the money is. Rebuilt units are several hundred. hiperformanceauto is awesome to work with. Located in Torrance California. Email them or call them and ask for Ian. He can clean the injectors for you also. If you have another car, then I would probably spend the small amount of money and clean them. But contact Ian and see what he thinks if no one else gets back to you here. |
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428472)
Tough to say. Strange it happened after the intank pump went in... The timing is in check?
The car goes fine up to ~50mph, then it feels like a wall? Or it accelerates, but you don't notice the turbo pulling past 50 mph? Injectors are easy and cheap to clean. Depending on where you are located. The distributor and car is where the money is. Rebuilt units are several hundred. hiperformanceauto is awesome to work with. Located in Torrance California. Email them or call them and ask for Ian. He can clean the injectors for you also. If you have another car, then I would probably spend the small amount of money and clean them. But contact Ian and see what he thinks if no one else gets back to you here. can you clarify for me? What units are several hundred? Also "Depending on where you are located. The distributor and car is where the money is." What are you talking about |
Can't clean then at home. Need a tool that pressurizes the injectors and runs a cleaning solution through them. I was talking about the fuel distributor and control pressure regulator. Those are expensive to get new. Like $350-400 for the distributor and same for the cpr.
I don't think you need to worry about those anyways... If the car runs fine and idles, then it's not those units. You said the cat is removed? |
What's funny, is I put an new O2 sensor in my old 82 and it actually ran worse.
Adjusted the o2 mixtures and no change. The car would not run for anything. They changed the part numbers around years ago when I was trying to pass smog, and then it would even run. Lol. Something else was the issue. But that car was totaled, so I did t care to look any further into it. |
Maybe you still have an exhaust restriction somewhere.... Or the fuel intank pump is not really allowing fuel flow at the higher rpms....
|
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428481)
Maybe you still have an exhaust restriction somewhere.... Or the fuel intank pump is not really allowing fuel flow at the higher rpms....
|
update
I got home yesterday and there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. It smells like its burning oil. It only does it while driving or shifting kinda like right when you get on the gas and then it clears up. It will smoke sparatically at idle too.
|
geez, our half million mile 1987 240 NA automatic will do 90 all day long. I've seen 100 on it, but you gotta be patient.
white smoke is usually water/coolant. burning oil is blue smoke. |
Originally Posted by pierce
(Post 428517)
geez, our half million mile 1987 240 NA automatic will do 90 all day long. I've seen 100 on it, but you gotta be patient.
white smoke is usually water/coolant. burning oil is blue smoke. |
too much fuel is as bad as not enough, because it means there's not enough air in the combustion mixture.
|
Originally Posted by pierce
(Post 428521)
too much fuel is as bad as not enough, because it means there's not enough air in the combustion mixture.
|
Too much fuel fouls the plugs. Reducing power.
Too much fuel also washes away the oil that seals the combustion chamber. The compression ratio will suffer also. Do a compression check. See where it's at. Good numbers should be around 150-200psi. Typical old engines are around 120-130psi. Numbers should be within 10psi of each other. You can adjust the co mixture for kjet with the tool. It's like a 6mm Allen key Need to have a gauge so you can see where it's at. |
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428544)
Too much fuel fouls the plugs. Reducing power.
Too much fuel also washes away the oil that seals the combustion chamber. The compression ratio will suffer also. Do a compression check. See where it's at. Good numbers should be around 150-200psi. Typical old engines are around 120-130psi. Numbers should be within 10psi of each other. You can adjust the co mixture for kjet with the tool. It's like a 6mm Allen key Need to have a gauge so you can see where it's at. |
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428544)
Too much fuel fouls the plugs. Reducing power.
Too much fuel also washes away the oil that seals the combustion chamber. The compression ratio will suffer also. Do a compression check. See where it's at. Good numbers should be around 150-200psi. Typical old engines are around 120-130psi. Numbers should be within 10psi of each other. You can adjust the co mixture for kjet with the tool. It's like a 6mm Allen key Need to have a gauge so you can see where it's at. |
Originally Posted by TIPSP
(Post 428544)
You can adjust the co mixture for kjet with the tool. It's like a 6mm Allen key
Need to have a gauge so you can see where it's at. I wonder if there's some signal like this on the Volvo KE-jets ? |
Originally Posted by pierce
(Post 428548)
on the mercedes KE-Jet, there's a diag output you put a dwell meter or duty cycle meter on, and warmed up at idle, all accessories off, you adjust the allen for 55% or so duty cycle, which puts the lambda right in the middle. if the duty cycle wont' stay put and bounces all over, something is wrong (air leaks, etc).
I wonder if there's some signal like this on the Volvo KE-jets ? |
Yes. Air fuel ratio gauge.
The a/f is controlled with the o2 sensor and computer. It controls the frequency valve for the fuel distributor. The co mixture adjustment only adjusts the metering plate... It's really only for idle control, but it does move the opening position for the meter plunger in the distributor. |
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