So im looking for help again here is what has been replaced


cap
rotor
wires
plugs
o2 sensor
fuel filter
in tank pump
turbo swap from M22 to M27 water cooled
vacuum line from throttle body to dist
cut the cracked end off of the other vacuum line on the throttle body
also removed the cat because the weld at the top cracked all the way around

Problem. 82 244 turbo doesn't feel like its building horse power. I can see on the boost guage that it is building boost to where it was before. It runs real smooth idles real smooth doesn't have any hesitation after i changed and fixed the vacuum lines. Im getting really lost here. The only thing left to replace is fuel injectors but at around $300-$400 in parts i dont want to replace them and have that not be the issue. Is there anything else that it could be. I was thinking about swapping out the intank pump again incase it got messed up when the hose popped off of it and it was almost just dangling in the tank by the wires. ANything else to check please help thanks guys. I am going to start a build thread once i have the damn thing running good enough that i dont want to sell it.

 

what do you mean by not building power? the stock 82 engine is not that powerful.

I put the upgraded waste gate and added an intercooler to my old 82. Then it started to move about decently. 10-12psi. that is still only ~160hp......

I don't remember what housing that turbo has, but if it is the .63 exhaust housing, then you will have to be higher in rpms to see the build. stock older version is .43

 

From what @pierce said my turbo is from at least an 87 because that is when they started using water cooled turbos. It wasn't a racecar before but you could still feel some power when you would step on the gas. Now it has power to about 40 then accelerates real slowly (after pumping the gas fast) up to maybe 55 if your lucky. Before it would hit 80 going on to the freeway no problem. All this started after the intank fuel pump was replaced. I figured that the in tank pump was working fine because my "surging and lurching" went away after i fiugred out why it wasn't working right.

 

Tough to say. Strange it happened after the intank pump went in... The timing is in check?

The car goes fine up to ~50mph, then it feels like a wall? Or it accelerates, but you don't notice the turbo pulling past 50 mph?

Injectors are easy and cheap to clean. Depending on where you are located. The distributor and car is where the money is. Rebuilt units are several hundred.

hiperformanceauto is awesome to work with. Located in Torrance California. Email them or call them and ask for Ian. He can clean the injectors for you also. If you have another car, then I would probably spend the small amount of money and clean them.

But contact Ian and see what he thinks if no one else gets back to you here.

 

It goes pretty good up to 40-45 but i still can feel it doesnt have the power it once had. After that its like im forcing it to climb a wall to get to 50-55 then it lays on top of said wall and wont do anything else. I think the injectors were $40-$80 on rockauto.com i could be wrong though. I just didnt want to spend the money on them if i wasn't sure. Is there a way to clean them at home.

can you clarify for me? What units are several hundred? Also "Depending on where you are located. The distributor and car is where the money is." What are you talking about

 

Can't clean then at home. Need a tool that pressurizes the injectors and runs a cleaning solution through them. I was talking about the fuel distributor and control pressure regulator. Those are expensive to get new. Like $350-400 for the distributor and same for the cpr.

I don't think you need to worry about those anyways... If the car runs fine and idles, then it's not those units.

You said the cat is removed?

 

What's funny, is I put an new O2 sensor in my old 82 and it actually ran worse.

Adjusted the o2 mixtures and no change.

The car would not run for anything. They changed the part numbers around years ago when I was trying to pass smog, and then it would even run. Lol. Something else was the issue. But that car was totaled, so I did t care to look any further into it.

 

Maybe you still have an exhaust restriction somewhere.... Or the fuel intank pump is not really allowing fuel flow at the higher rpms....

 

Yeah the cat is gone i replaced it win a piece of 2" pipe from my borthers old chevy. I dont think that there is an exhaust restriction. My gramps replaced the whole exhaust a few years ago. Im wondering if the pump got ****ed u[p when it was dangleing in the tank. The hose between the pump and sender failed and dropped the pump so it was hanging in the tank by the wires. I do know that the copper wire that is spooled inside the plastic connector got pulled out and i had to recoil it when i put it back in but i dont think that it hurt anything. I guess ill pul the fuel line off and see if anything comes out with my wife trying to start it.

 

I got home yesterday and there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. It smells like its burning oil. It only does it while driving or shifting kinda like right when you get on the gas and then it clears up. It will smoke sparatically at idle too.

 

geez, our half million mile 1987 240 NA automatic will do 90 all day long. I've seen 100 on it, but you gotta be patient.

white smoke is usually water/coolant. burning oil is blue smoke.

 

It would do 70 easily before all of this happened. Like i would be to freeway speeds before i reached the freeway. Its deffinately not water or coolant. It did have a slight blue tinge to it when it was smoking. It doesn't smell sweet nor was the smoke moist. It smelled like burning oil and kinda rich actually which is weird seeing as how it seems like a not getting enough fuel issue.

 

too much fuel is as bad as not enough, because it means there's not enough air in the combustion mixture.

 

Would to much fuel burn whitish blue? is there an easy way to adjust the fuel? Why would it be over fueling? Also come to think of it all my spark plugs that i just replaced all smelled like fuel and they were only 3 months old.

 

Too much fuel fouls the plugs. Reducing power.

Too much fuel also washes away the oil that seals the combustion chamber.

The compression ratio will suffer also.

Do a compression check. See where it's at.

Good numbers should be around 150-200psi. Typical old engines are around 120-130psi.

Numbers should be within 10psi of each other.


You can adjust the co mixture for kjet with the tool. It's like a 6mm Allen key

Need to have a gauge so you can see where it's at.

 

Fuel pressure gauge? I was thinking about doing a compression check just to make sure that the rings or valve guides didnt happen to go out

 

Or are you talking about a air fuel ratio gauge

 

on the mercedes KE-Jet, there's a diag output you put a dwell meter or duty cycle meter on, and warmed up at idle, all accessories off, you adjust the allen for 55% or so duty cycle, which puts the lambda right in the middle. if the duty cycle wont' stay put and bounces all over, something is wrong (air leaks, etc).

I wonder if there's some signal like this on the Volvo KE-jets ?

 

I know how to do alot of stuff but that is beyond me lol. That sound complicated its probably not. Ill have my bmw guy give me a hand

 

Yes. Air fuel ratio gauge.

The a/f is controlled with the o2 sensor and computer. It controls the frequency valve for the fuel distributor. The co mixture adjustment only adjusts the metering plate... It's really only for idle control, but it does move the opening position for the meter plunger in the distributor.