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For those who are interested, here are some details.
First, the tires. General Grabber in size 27 x 8.5 R14. These are Light Truck tires, therefore the nomenclature is different from the usual passenger radials. Inch sized; tire diameter is 27 " and the nominal width is 8.5 ".These are the ATX model; they also make a AT2 and 3 models; you may decide one of these is better for you.
I kept the stock steel wheels as this was a "budget" conversion because I wasn't sure I would like it. These tires will just barely fit into the wheel wells and under the front shock towers with a few minor mods.
The fronts will rub against the bottom of the strut lower mount. You could shave a little bit of rubber from the inside edge of the treadblocks; or drive the car a few miles and they will wear themselves down. We're talking about just rounding the inside corner with a file , or sanding drum. My tire guy did not find this an acceptable solution, though. He did offer up some universal 5 mm spacers to put behind the wheels. This kept the fronts from interfering with the strut. Note that on this car, the lower strut mount and tire stay in the same relative position throughout their suspension travel. No interference at full travel or at full lock-to-lock steering that I have noticed.
The rears are a little more complicated. The same 5mm spacers on the front are needed here to keep from tire rub against the rear shock mount bolt, at least on my car. This puts the tires close enough to rub the inside of the wheel well at the plastic mudflap assembly and at the rear part of the "pinch weld" at the inside of the fender. I rolled the pinch weld a little bit ( google "Rolling a fender") and filed of a portion of the plastic mudflap that was hitting at times.
I used some coil spring "buffers" that are sold on Amazon for my first attempt at a bit of a lift. I used the RubberShox brand, and also some of their blocks in the rear. I used size "B" for my car; it was the only size that was near close enough to the spring wire diameter. These did NOT go on easily, like in the videos. Very difficult for me; maybe I just don't have the hand strength anymore. I discovered on the fronts, that two sets of McPherson strut compressors will combine to make a spring "stretcher" and would open the coils enough to slide the lubed rubber cushion into place. The rears were no easier.
I have some plans for a bit more lift in the rear, which the car needs to visually look like it isn't sitting low in the rear. But any more lift requires more shock length and maybe an exhaust rerouting
There are sources online; one in Europe and one in Great Britain that offer kits to give a higher, more noticeable lift for 240's and other RWD Volvos. They look complete but require some welding into the front shock tower a spacer tube. Maybe some day....
Oh, and yes, the speedometer is now 5 mph slow at 60 mph. And my rear axle effective ratio went from 3.51 to around 3.3 So, yes a higher numerically rear end is on my wish list; along with a Limited Slip or Locker unit
A bit of a necro post..., but I've been rockin' a lifted '92 wagon since around when you originally posted this. Despite only being 2wd, they're mighty fun in the mountains and the desert! I took these pictures recently on my way home from some mountain fun.
Hahaha...I only know of the racy acronym...I was hoping maybe in this context you came up another one to tell people who ask. I bet you get lots of drivers peering over to check out the hot babe behind the wheel...