hey, my 740 GLE wouldn't start, I thought it was bad gas, since it sat for a while, and since I didn't have time, I sent it to a mechanic. Yesterday he calls, says the gas is ok, but that the fuel pumps are bad, and need to be replaced. He quoted me about $750. I told him I didn't have 700 to spend, and he said the diagnostic itself will be over $200. How does this sound to everyone?

 

I got both of my fuel pumps from a reputable seller on eBay and did the job myself. With a new fuel filter, in-tank sock filter, a few feet of fuel line, 3 banjo fittings, and a couple of new o-rings, I spent about $500

There are ways to check the pumps yourself. It might be a good idea to do so before you spring for the repair.

 

thanks. How do I check the pumps, does the diagnostic computer put codes out for that? The thing was, I just needed the car to run, just a little, to move it to my new place, so that I could work on it. And I seriously didn't expect him to charge me over $200 for a diagnostic.
Thinking of buying a couple remanufactured pumps for time being.

What range of tools did you use for the job? anything special I need?

 

Reman is good for a quick fix. I didn't require any special tools for the job. Just make sure you've got your metrics (sockets & box wrenches) from the 8mm to 15mm range. I don't remember ever seeing diagnostic codes for fuel pump issues...but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

The first test is an auditory one. Leave your door open, lean out and listen under your car, right under your seat. This is where the primary pump is located, in a mounting bracket that also holds the fuel filter. Turn the ignition to the II position and you should hear a whirring that indicates the pump motor is on and working. You might want to change your fuel filter if you can't remember the last time it was done.

Similar test for the in-tank pump. Open your fuel door and remove your gas cap. Have someone turn the ignition to the II position again. Again, you should hear a whirring. Keep in mind that you may be able to hear the primary pump from where you are. You need to be able to differentiate the two and be able to tell what part is making what noise. To access the in-tank pump, you'll have to remove the fuel sending assembly. If you have a sedan, I believe the access hatch is in the trunk under the carpet (driver side). The pump is mounted on the shaft of the sending unit. You should go ahead and change the sock filter attached to the pump while you're there. Needless to say, don't smoke while you've got your fuel tank open.

If you get to this point and you're still not able to start your car, you can check for fuel flow. Find a container that's able to hold about a quart of fluid. Carefully remove the fuel line that goes into the fuel injector assembly. Position the line where any fuel that comes out will go into the container. Again, have someone turn the ignition to position II. If fuel starts flowing, have your helper put the ignition back into the off position. If you've got flow to your injectors and you're still not able to start the car, then your injector relays may need to be replaced.

I hope this helps, or at least gives you a bit of direction. Let me know how things work out.