hey guys i finally bought a volvo tonight and its a 90 740 turbo innercooled. i just ordered a MBC, MFPR, muffler, turbo timer, IPD sport springs, IPD water pump gasket kit, bov, hard pipe w/flange, and an IPD window sticker. i just put a k&n cone filter on it today when i got home. tommorow im making an appointment to get a full 2.5" exhaust put on it with a gutted cat and resonator style muffler. im not boosting it anymore til i get the new plugs in it, the exhaust on it,and gauges.

i was VERY surprised to drive it tonight and after just the filter (i tried getting it to come around on me before and it wouldnt) given that the roads were wet from a little rain but i brought it in the road and i was pretty impressed. the car right now has a 2" exhaust on it with 2 mufflers and one cat.

i cant wait to get this thing finished and boosted.

now my question is where is a good place to put the BOV and after i do this say it is tuned to run a little rich what can i run for boost levels? how hard is a carrier bearing to replace and how hard is the tailshaft seal to replace?

i will post pictures with the springs and etc. soon.
Devin

 

sounds nice welcome to the volvo family

 

Forget the BOV and FPR, they are useless ricer toys. These cars have enough injector and fuel pump stock to handle 16psi.
Get some HiTuning chips, give the car a thorough tune up, set your boost controller to 14 psi and have fun wasting ricers.

Regards, Andrew.

 

well now you tell me! lol

theres only a few things that bug me about the car. the fact that the speedometer and tach dont work and that the radio doesnt work. im pretty sure the radio is just junk and i have to do some research about the speedo and tach.

 

Try jiggling the key up and down, and see if anything starts working. The ignition switch on Volvos tend to be flaky when old.

 

Incidentally, my '90 940 GLE had a non- working speedo, fuel gauge, temp gauge, and radio. The speedo turned out to be a broken wire at the speed sensor, and the everything else is the ignition switch. I have to wiggle the key up and down after starting, and those things start working. ( i'll replace the switch soon)

 

nice...well congrats on the 740ti! I just purchased one myself a few months back. most of my speakers are shot....... check all the hoses because several of mine were toast.. yep give her a nice service

 

this car was maintained meticulously by a volvo shop owner so everything but the what i listed is really solid. i'll post pics up when i get the springs and everything else on.

 

so i did some jiggling and got no results. would the speed sensor mess with the tach and the odometer? i ordered all the stuff to put in a aftermarket radio/cd player last night. im deleting the ac and putting on my "custom" center bushing (filled full of window weld). the water pump is leaking a little but it looks new so i bought a gasket kit from IPD and im on the lookout for a radiator because my a-hole freind busted the upper hose off of it the other day. i cant wait to get all the stuff on and get the car done. im giddy like a school girl.

devin

 

Volvo used plastic radiators (sides) and ours gave out one day. The new one we got was made by some other manufacturer, but it was cheaper and made of metal, so have your friend try and bust one of those.

 

lol im sure he would find a way. so i filled my center carrier bushing with poly-urethane and now i have a nasty humming noise and it is obvious that it i coming from the driveshaft. could that be due to the center bearing not lined up?

 

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The cheaper, all- metal radiators are made of brass/ copper. They're really not that strong, either. Aluminum/ plastic radiators are usually longer- lasting, as they don't corrode. What usually kills those is the plastic gets a stress crack, the rubber seal between the tank and core fails, or the radiator is physically damaged by a tool or crash. The ONLY benefit to a copper/ brass radiator is ease of repair. But when the radiator lasts 15-20 years, compared to 5-10 for a copper/ brass one, who cares? Lots of people like to mock plastic/ aluminum radiators as being "junk," but remember all those radiator shops that used to exist 20 years ago? notice that they're mostly closed? That's because they don't get as much business, as modern radiators last longer.

 

Yes. Believe it or not, that's a precision piece. If it's not lined up correctly, the driveshaft will be misaligned, causing excessive oscillation in the u- joints. Also, if your polyurethane kludge fails on the highway, and the driveshaft flies out of place/ into pieces, at best, your driveshaft will be completely destroyed, at worst, you'll lose a foot due to the shaft getting thrown through the floor. A driveshaft is NOT something to jerry- rig. Ever. Replace the center bearing- they're NOT that expensive.