I was converting my ignition control module form a Chrysler one to a ezk one and got everything wired up and it wont start, it will turn over but nothing. So i check my spark plugs, nothing. Moved to my coil to see if it was getting power on the positive side, it is! But the negative side is getting power as well!? So i have power to the coil but nothing to the distributor, could this be because the negative side has power to it? Is there a ballast resistor? 1987 245
Thanks,
Sam

 

did you install a power module? the EZK ICU's require an external power module between the ICU output and the coil.

the power module 'grounds' pin 1 of the coil, this induces current in it, which charges up the reactance of the coil, then the power module is shut off so the current stops, the magnetic field in the coil collapses, and that triggers the HV spark.

when the power module is off, you will read 12V on both sides of the coil because there's no current through it, and the coil is a fairly low resistance.

 

Are you talking about a power stage? I did hook it up! it has the wire connecting it from the ezk, a brown wire also connected the two and it t'd off and i grounded it, then there was a blue wire which went to the positive side of the coil and a thick red/white wire that went to the negative side of the coil. There was also a thinner red/white wire that was suppposed to go to my tach, but my car doesn't have one so I left it unplugged?

 

as a test, disconnect that wire from the EZK to the power stage, turn the car on (but don't try and start), volt meter on the negative side of the coil, it should read 12V, now ground that wire that went to the ezk, and the volt meter should read zero, unground the wire, and you should get a spark on whichever plug wire the rotor is pointing at (and see 12V again at the coil pin 1).

my EZ-116K wiring diagram, from a 1990-ish 240 with LH2.4, shows the blue wire going from the ignition switch pin 15R to the coil pin 15 and from coil pin 15 to power stage pin 4.

yes, if you don't have tach, do away with the tach wire entirely, or at least cap it off so it can't short against anything.

 

I feel like an idiot but I must of swapped the coil wires when I disconnected it and hooked it back up again. So that was my big issue! Thanks for your input