Hey guys, so here's the rub:

I have been on the prowl for a Volvo 240 for a while now and I am nearing the point of being able to pull the trigger. I am looking for a 1988-1993 wagon preferably in silver. I am primarily interested in the 5-speed as the transmission and definitely do not want the 4-speed w/ electric OD. I will most likely will be getting one with an automatic (yuck) but I'm content with this because I'm willing to do a tranny swap sometime down the road. I don't mind the automatic because almost universally the ones for sale with autos have lower miles and are in far better condition. Mileage is not an issue for me, because I am fully aware of what these things are capable of, I just want one that has been well maintained.

So I really just want to hear from people who actually own them currently, instead of trying to piece together what butt-hurt ne'er-do-wells crab-*** about on consumer review websites. I am capable of most maintenance and repairs by myself. I am mostly concerned with major repairs and costs like head gaskets, electrical issue diagnosis, and even total rebuilds, among other things. I don't plan on spending more than $2000 to purchase one. How much should I expect to be spending annually to keep this thing on the road? What should I know going into this?

Let me know what you think! I appreciate any input you got!

 

Good deals can be found. good luck finding one without needing anything for the $2000. Most good condition wagons I see sell for double that. hell, NADA values for them (88-93 wagons) are like $7,000+ for great condition.

I got over $7000 from insurance when my old 240 was totaled.

Every car needs something when you buy it. other wise the person wouldn't sell it. Unless they are just tired of it or someone died. They are pretty cheap to keep running. Mostly standard tune up crap like most cars.

They are fun, light, great cars. try it out, don't like it, sell it for profit?


Edit: a head gasket is not a tune up or annual thing. just saying... Most cars should never need a head gasket unless they are completely neglected or ran to the dirt.


Hope you find one great deal! I wasn't as lucky as I thought on one of mine.


Edit 2: If you have no hurry, can always do the waiting and reading this thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=164474
Started in 09 and over 600 pages. need to login to see it. most recent stuff is on like 640: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...64474&page=640
people all over post up craigslist ads and bring a trailer ads...etc. hunt in there for out of state deals.

 

head gaskets fail after overheating. if you blow a radiator or heater hose or otherwise lose your coolant, and try to keep driving, that will fry the head gasket. otherwise, they should last virtually forever

 

240's in good shape (not neglected/beat) are becoming very hard to find here in the north east ...
mine, for one, is not for sale ...

good luck

 

we're gonna sell our white 1987 240GL sedan. 1 owner car (my wife bought new in 87).

issues:
1) no stereo (wired for one, but I took the speakers out to reuse), rear deck is cut for 6.5" rounds

2) windshield seal is leaking. dashboard electrics get wet in rainy weather, and car gets erratic. in dry weather its fine. this is the biggie.

3) no A/C, the compressor is non-functional and I removed the condenser when I replaced the radiator

4) interior is pretty beat up. beige plastic is brittle with age.

5) will need brakes real soon. tires are mostly worn. shocks are tired and should be renewed. front control arm bushings are sloppy.

6) side trim molding is starting to rot a bit in places, I'd replace it with generic trim molding.

7) sunroof is broken, and sealed with some silicone

8) odometer reads 256236 and has for the last 15 years, HAH! best estimate is 400-500K miles. all other gauges work fine.

pluses:
engine and transmission are in good shape. car drives well (except for said front control arm bushings). brass premium radiator. all the hoses and stuff under the hood in good shape. new heater valve. body has no dents, and white paint is in good shape. all exterior lights are like new. all rear suspension bushings were replaced a few years ago. has a trailer hitch receiver and 4-wire flat trailer connector, was used to tow a hobie cat for a few years. IPD fabric seat covers over worn out original leather.

we've had this car nearly 30 years now, but its time to let it go.

located in Santa Cruz, California. make offer

 

There is a proverb I've heard around here that is "all volvos cost $5,000", which is to say that if you pay less than $5,000 for one, you're going to make up the difference in repairs, parts, etc. I'd say this is largely true. You can do better than that (I have), but usually it is a culmination of freak circumstances and useful connections that let you keep costs way down. At $2,000, I'd say you're going to have to do some work.

As far as working on them, they're pretty nice in that department. There tends to be plenty of room where you need to access things in the engine. Get yourself a good metric socket set and wrench set, and you are pretty set. If you get a newer 240, also pick up a decent torx set. They use a lot of that on the interior.

Electrical troubleshooting is not that difficult with a meter and some knowledge. If this is a long term thing, pick up a electrical diagram for the car. I hear bently makes a decent manual, but I use "the green books" which are the original volvo shop manuals. I have a few green books, but bought the complete set on pdf (encrypted) that lets me see how the different years work. It's called OTP (Original Technical Publications). I have a love/hate relationship with that, but the information is extremely useful. I'd rather have the real physical copies, but they can be a lot of $ on ebay. With either of those, and the help of the forums, you should pretty much be able to solve about any electrical problem.

Quick note: The m46 (the 4 speed +od) is actually a pretty fun little tranny. I had an auto and switched it out for an M46. I have a whole thread on that around here... If all you want to do is use it for a daily driver, either tranny is good, but they kept using the m46 on the turbo cars (in the 700 series) even after the m47 (the straight 5 speed) was used on the NAS cars, because the M46 is more robust. So two points here First, if you find a car with an m46, i'd not pass over it. They're very good trannys. Second, if you plan to mod your 240 at all (add a turbo or whatnot) the m46 might be a better choice. Again, if daily driving is the only reason you are getting the car, either would be just fine.

Finally, they have a very annoying fuse box. The advice most give around here is to replace all the fuses and clean up the fuse box with a wire brush. 90% of all electrical issues on this car are the fuses making bad contact. If you are having an issue, ALWAYS clean up your fuses first--that has solved a few problems on my car.

That's my two cents.

 

That's interesting. Everyone around here is telling me that these Volvo's are so expensive. I just kind of assumed that $2000 was the going rate. I've been browsing craigslist for about a year now and 90% have been in that neighborhood, even though condition varies greatly.

In my past research I read that the OD relay fails often on the M46 and that the M47 is the way to go. How different is the M46 from the M47 to make it more robust?

 

The car sounds well cared for and mechanically sound, but Santa Cruz is just about as far away from me in the frigid northeast as you can get. Thanks though! I bet it's nice and warm in California...

 

I don't know that Volvo's are particularly expensive. Maybe $5,000 is a bit high, but at $2,000, you will probably put some money into repairs. The reality is that unless you buy your Volvo from an enthusiast, you're probably going to want to do a lot of work to bring it up to spec 0. Once there, they don't cost that much to maintain, but few ordinary users really keep on top of everything. heck, most dealers don't.

Also... the value of these cars has floated around quite a bit. In the early 2000s, these cars in okay condition were worth around $800. Then after a lot were crushed in "cash for clunckers" the value went a whole lot to around $2000 (for decent condition) where it has stayed. Supply went down, but people still want them.

Let me give you a brake down of my costs, to give you an idea of them realistically (and yes, i'm the compulsive type that created a database to track the money spent on my car):

A friend of mine was going to junk the car. I convinced him to give it to me instead. In WV, that's $10 to the state, and it was mine. The alternator was the problem. $25 dollars for new brushes, I had a running car, but with problems. I figure had i paid fair value for that, it would have been around $1500. Leaving out the extra stuff, I've put about $1,700 into the car in the last 4 years. Broadly, this is what that money has purchased:

* rebuilt front suspension (ball joints, tie-rods, etc)
* replaced starter
* rebuild kits for all 4 brakes
* remanufactured rear brake (one I screwed up)
* Driveshaft center support
* replacement rear view mirror
* chip to repair odometer
* Motor & transmission mounts
* new tires
* new blower motor
* rear end suspension bushing kit
* radiator hoses
* new tires
* various seals to stop all oil leaks (which i did).

I also accidentally detonated the airbag, and had to get that sorted out to pass inspection. ebay is pretty good for that.

Then I did a tranny swap. Cost of all parts for that was about $450, including a junkyard M46 tranny.

Notes on these costs: I pay ONLY for parts. I do all the labor myself. if you are not doing all your own work, you can expect to pay quite a bit more. But I drive a volvo because 1) i like to work on cars and 2) I like that I can customize it as I want. and 3) there are actually still quiet a few of them in the junkyard.

Also, when I replace parts, I don't use the cheapest ones--i try to use same quality, OEM, or upgrads. you can possibly find parts for cheaper than I have. Finally, i'm not trying to just "get my car to work," I am trying to get my car in excellent condition, but pretty close to stock. You may be able to do things otherwise.


Finally, M46 details... how is the one more robust than the other? I don't fully know, but this is how I understand it. My m46 is an older one, and has a cast iron case. This is good for strength. If you have too much power, it can twist the casing up a bit, and this throws things off. so far as I know, all m47s use aluminum. This is good in that it is lighter, but bad in not quite as strong. Coupled with the NAS engine, it's fine, but volvo continued to use this older, and i'm sure more expensive transmission, on their turbo units. We had a 1989 740T, and it used an M46, but 240s of the same era (that didn't hvae a turbo) used the m47.

M46 OD relay failure: Yes, they happen. If it is the relay, generally, if you at all handy with a soldering iron, it is easy to fix. A little annoying to get to, but now awful. The solenoid can also go bad. I replaced mine... hum.. for got to write the cost of that donw... i can track i down later, but, it was around $100 from "gear venders". plus another 15 or so bucks to modify a tool to get it off.

That is a pretty honest and open bit of cost accounting on my part. Hope this helps.

 

Wow! That's great. A lot of great information in there. That was very helpful. Thank you very much. I'm pretty handy with old American cars so hopefully a Volvo shouldn't been too much more difficult because I would like to do as much of the work myself as possible.

I too, like to keep fastidious records for work I have done to my cars so it's good I'm not the only one out there. Thanks again!!

 

Anthony, DON'T DO IT! Rescuing one of these old POS's from the crusher will change your life forever. Here's how:

• You will spend way too much of your valuable free time underneath, on top of and under the hood of your new baby (crapmobile in the wife/GF's eyes.)
• You will become intimately familiar with your local Euro junkyard and what parts may still be available from their cannibalized hulks.
• You will get accosted by strangers in the parking lot of the supermarket who have /had a car "just like that".
• You will spend too much time on the computer on Volvo forums searching the archives for issues you have or anticipate having instead of Facebook or **** sites or whatever regular guys look at.
• Need a cupholder for your latte? FUGGITABOUTIT. There are none!
• Navigation system? Try a map and compass!
• You want infotainment as you drive? Try to guess if your overhead dome light is going to come on without jiggling the switch. Or which speaker of the 2 you have will cut out when going over that pothole. Or when the odometer is going to start moving again.
• Apologizing to your wife/GF when the glove box door comes crashing down on her knees.
• Hearing a groan from your wife/GF when you suggest taking the old Volvo. "Can't we take the nice car"
• Even worse , the wife/GF asks you to teach her to drive a "stick" on your old brick.

You have been warned , Anthony.

 

you guys obviously have the wrong wife.

mine BOUGHT a 240 *NEW* in 1987, we still have it, at about 500k miles, although we're finally going to sell it.... I was more VW at the time, but gradually grew to like it as my new 89 Jetta started to fall apart around 250000 miles. I graduated to a 92 Volvo 740 Turbo wagon. IMHO, the 740/940 are significantly better cars than the 240 even if they don't have (or maybe BECAUSE they don't have) hipster cachet.

oh, and 740/940 glove boxes stay closed

 

I've got an '85 sedan, that I bought last September and have been using as a daily driver (200-300 miles / week). I paid $1700 and have spent less than $1000 on "repairs", mostly stuff that needed doing soon, or I just didn't know how long since it had last been done and wanted to reset the clock so to speak.


I understand that California seems to be a Volvo buyers paradise, so the same may not apply elsewhere, but I have seen a lot of clean 240s being sold cheap (under $3000). Often because it has an issue and the owner doesn't want to sink any more money into the car, but often not a major job for a good DIY type.


I really enjoy the fairly simple nature of the car, with it's occasional quirks that make it a Volvo (like the M46 4 speed + OD)




Really the only kind of negative things I have to say about it, are it isn't a Toyota that you can just drive and ignore. You do need to stay on top of basic maintenance. I wish it got a little better fuel economy, and it doesn't have cup holders which can be a little annoying. In general I find the general stereotype of the 240 as a boring car to be flat wrong. It is comfortable, rides smooth and is very nimble. It is not a race car (mine is a non-turbo) but it has all the power I would expect from a 4 cyl car.




Sorry I can't really give you any good reasons not to get one, unless you just don't like to work on your car.

 

cup holders? do you guys not have the plastic map pockets in your 240???
79-93 years.
Those hold cups up to some larges. works great. you shouldn't be drinking and driving anyways

 

my cup holder is between my thighs, I use a leakproof motor mug (Contigo) for coffee in the car, and ditto a leak proof water bottle (Camelbak Eddy) for H2O. either one of them fits nicely between the seat belt latch and the bolster of the seat when I want to park them.

Actually, my 740T has the optional taller center cover that has a pull out cup holder.... which won't hold EITHER my Contigo OR my Eddy. :-/

 

WOW, TIPSP; You still have map pockets that aren't shattered to pieces? When I tried to put my coffee in one, it broke the glue that I had used to repair the one. Lost my coffee all over my pants leg. Good thing I have the hard rubber optional "tray" floor mats; they contained everything. Now I have a Walmart plastic "clip-on" that hangs on the glovebox.

 

Lots of good information here. Just keep in mind that the 'newest' one you can get is 22 years old and regardless of perceived condition everything will need repaired or replaced at some point if you keep it long enough. The 240 series is easy to fix so whatever comes your way you should be able to correct it. Mileage will wear stuff out but age will rot rubber bushings, UV light will damage interiors etc, etc. If you go into this project knowing you'll be fixing-as-you-go then you will not be disappointed.


Enjoy!

 

Actually that is where I keep my coffee cup in the morning. I don't trust it for less secure cups though (coffee cup has a screw on lid).


Really a pretty minor issue though but I had to find something to complain about as we are supposed to be talking Anthony out of buying a 240...

 

I replaced the map pockets in my 240 a few years ago, and it does work pretty well as a cup holder. But, I was concerned about the strength of the plastic, so I ended up using fiberglass to re-enforce them. Now, i have peace of mind, and strong map pockets.

I thought I took some pictures, but I can't seem to dig them up... it was quite an improvement, though.

 

I can't tell if Sambar Stag is being sarcastic or not... most of that stuff sounds fun, really. I won't comment on the status of his relationship with his significant other however.

I'm not really the kind of person who ignores maintenance and neglects necessary repairs. It seems that if I were to keep up with the maintenance then the car should reasonably reliable? As long as stuff doesn't fail catastrophically without warning like in a VW then I should be good.

If cup holders and map pockets are the biggest complaints then a Volvo seems like a pretty good ride!