ugh, those corona rim covers are rattlecans, we've lost two of them and given up on replacements

once upon a time, Volvo had an alternate setup fpr tje Corona, with a small dome cap for the center hub that said VOLVO on it, and chromed lugnuts. I wish we'd sprung for it, even tho it was stupid expensive for what it was (a few $100). now completely unobtanium.

 

 

lol yea mine rattled until i reset the prongs now they snap on tight ..i have seen the small ones on ebay but would have to have see one up close to make sure im buying the right ones

 

he says he took it in for service all the time and only had the valve cover off once

 

i did disconnect the alternator and still a draw i took off the skinny one first and checked and still a draw and then took off the bigger one off and still a draw are these both positive wires ?

 

It seems frustrating but keep on it and you will be rewarded with the problem circuit.

Did you check to see if the central locking system(locks and unlocks all doors with the pulling up or pushing down of the drivers door lock button) those have been known to have issues and cause dead batteries. did you pull and leave out the radio and clock fuses before checking current drain? The memory part of the radio and the clock will always have power running to it

 

Yes sir the lock system works flawless and i did pull every fuse one at a time to check draw and still a draw volt meter shows 12 volt draw

 

ok, a digital volt meter is very high impedance (high internal resistance in the volt meter itself), so it will show close to 12V if there's even a very tiny amount of current in the circuit, like the clock or radio memory. I thought you said you were using a test light, which requires some current to activate.

if you're using a digital multimeter, then put it in 'AMPS' mode (this usually requires you to plug the + wire into a different socket on the meter as well as set the dial for DC AMPS or 10A DC or whatever it says), and use that between the battery - post, and the ground cable (with said ground cable disconnected). this will read the actual current draw of this phantom load, which is likely a couple amps if the battery is being completely drained in a couple days.

note that a meter in amps mode acts like a piece of wire, eg if you to put it across a voltage, it would act as a short, and probably blow a fuse inside the meter. be sure to take it OUT of amps mode when you're done doing these tests.

 

Thanks ,
i came up with 0.82 on the meter ..the battery will die just over one night of sitting.. the clock
does work on the car and the radio does not have the memory its an analog push button radio

i will check it with a test light a.s.a.p

 

ok checked it with a test light and lights up dim like a 6 volt battery would do to it

 

ok, so .82 amps is your drain. I would think a good battery should handle that for 60+ hours, but regardless... thats way too much, I agree.

now, go through your fuses again, and see if any fuse changes that amp reading. if it goes from 0.8x to .0xx, you're gold, you found the drain circuit.

 

Awesome man will do that tomorrow thanks a ton... ill keep you posted

take your shot at it what fuse do you think it is...just a guess from your experience
ill have the answer for you hopefully tomorrow

Thanks Pierce

 

are you missing the relay that goes in line with the high beam relay and the black box with a bunch of connections to it and

silver relay + black plastic box + small silver or black relay?? square....
I know I saw an 84 wagon the other day and it had it...and yes given that it had other luxuries to it...it is a multi purpose 5 prong relay...
JUST WONDERING

 

Thanks,
To be honest i have no idea what is missing or what it should have lol..take a peek at the 2 pictures i posted and tell me what you think

 

I took a closer look at your pictures (they are really dark on my screen) ... that 30A blade fuse is almost certainly the "25A" EFI system fuse we were looking for before, unless its a fuse that was added for auxilliary equipment (car stereo amplifiers, trailer hitch light/brake controller being the two most common reasons).

 

the lady i bought the car from said she did have alot of electrical repair done to it.. she is a senior and never added anything to the car .. i pulled the fuse and it gone down to 0.00 on 10a setting... when the fuse was pulled the car turns over but wont start

 

ok, well, that fuse powers the whole fuel injection system. pretty much everything engine-related under the hood comes through there.

so, with that fuse pulled out, can your multimeter probes reach in and touch the fuse terminals inside the fuse holder? with the meter in the same DC AMPS mode you used before, you should see your 0.8-ish amps, right? if you can, then you won't need to mess with the ground strap anymore...

now try pulling some relays one at a time, and measuring the amps again....

AFAIK, that fuse goes to just two places, the fuel injection system 'main' relay, and the fuel pump relay. I'd try pulling these one at a time (they are next to the fuel pump relay, behind the glove box). The 'main' relay has red to pin 30, red to pin 86 (these are both from that fuse), orange and brown wires to pin 87, and a yellow-red wire to pin 85. the fuel pump relay has red (from that fuse) to pin 30, blue-red to pin 86, yellow-red (or maybe orange) to pin 87, and blue-green to pin 85.

the 'main' relay powers the ECU (pin 9, brown wire) and the MAF (pin 9, orange wire). the 'pump' relay powers the fuel pump, the idle air controller, the fuel injectors.

 

YIKES !!! This is getting intense now

 

so, with that fuse pulled out, can your multimeter probes reach in and touch the fuse terminals inside the fuse holder? with the meter in the same DC AMPS mode you used before, you should see your 0.8-ish amps, right? if you can, then you won't need to mess with the ground strap anymore...

this is true im at 0.8ish at the fuse holder.. will get back with you as i go

 

the 'main' relay powers the ECU (pin 9, brown wire) and the MAF (pin 9, orange wire). the 'pump' relay powers the fuel pump, the idle air controller, the fuel injectors.[/QUOTE]

i dont believe this car has fuel injectors or a MAF..If so i have not noticed it yet lol