Well I seldom say this but really changing the nivomats in this thing (940 SE estate) was really simple, and cheap too. Got some coils and good Gas adjusts from the pick n pull for basically nothing. The springs are very easy to remove without a spring compressor, and the shocks bolt right in with no mods required.

I'm also doing new Billy tourings on the front and am thinking of "removing" (cutting is such a harsh word) a coil on the fronts, then whatever is necessary on the rear to make level. I am not interested in "slamming" the car as I do like some suspension travel, but wan't something about like what the euro spec cars look like from the factory, I'd be happy with 1.5" or so. So two questions, would one coil be about right on the front for this? Also, merely lowering this small amount, would I actually see some small improvement at least in the handling characteristics? A bit quicker response to turning is about all I'm looking for, and really these US cars are too tall, the euro cars are just right. Thank's for any input.

 

you really should have stiffer spring rates for shorter springs, or the car can bottom out easier, especially if you have a load in the back..

 

Also I don't want to end up with camber which is out of range, then trying to fix it by drilling out my strut mounting holes etc. I wonder what is the max I could go without putting the camber out? Half a coil? Probably not even worth the trouble. I know... how bout 3/4 of a coil and put some tennis ***** in there

 

well, the live axle in the rear ensures that ITS camber/etc is always right on the money

I think you can drop an inch in the front OK without being out of whack. me, I *like* these cars at their stock height. they don't scrape on driveways or speedbumps or dips in the road the way my 850T did.

case in point, my 1992 745T...

 

Most lowering springs on the market for Volvos drop the car 1.5 or 1.6 inches. Go ahead and cut a full coil off. I have some uncut stock springs I'll sell ya cheap if ya goof!

 

Cut 7/8 of a coil , plus bent 1/4 or so down flat. Tomorrow install and will post results. I'm going to trim the rears to match in 3mm segments .

 

This is what 7/8 of a coil plus 1/4 bent flat looks like. Good compromise I think, the rears are stock coils and gas adjusts with Nivo's deleted. I think I'll carefully cut pieces off the rears till it's level. I installed Bstein touring in the front and I think they are "ok", nothing really to get excited about in my opinion. I'm sure i'd be happier with HD's on all 4, and maybe even happier with the old Boge's, at least these two struts do something exceptionally well (handling and comfort respectively) not just everything as a compromise. I haven't felt HD's on this car but I bet I would prefer the precision of the HD's having had them on a couple of BMW's before. I never felt them to be too harsh. I keep pecking away at the little details on this car that need attention, but I really like this car so far. Took it out today "off road" and found out it has a traction control diff of some sort, really can crawl it's way up some sand hills, impressive. Btw, site say's max jpg size 19.5 Kb???

 

Btw, those gas adjusts never have felt so "dumb" as they do on the back of this car, very unsophisticated shocks... hitting the delete button on those soon even if they did only cost me 5 $ a piece.

 

many 740/940s, especially the turbos, have a automatic locking differential. its based on a Dana 30 differential with a locker. I gather there's a couple different versions, the later ones would only lock the differential if you spun a wheel while going slower than 25 MPH. they are rather abrupt about it, this is not 'positraction' for high performance road racing, rather, its just good for keeping you unstuck at low speeds in sand, snow, mud.

 

Thanks, works for me, helps getting up snowy hills I'm sure, and ur right, it's abrubt. Btw, could you tell me the proper way to remove a headlight lens on this car? I posted regarding this just now. Much appreciated.

 

um,. the lamp bulb is installed from behind, there's a ring you turn like 1/4 turn then it and hte lamp comes out, you have to unplug it too.

otherwise, if you're replacing the whole headlight assembly, they are held on with a few nuts from behind the sheet metal behind the headlight.... the lens doesn't come off seperately, its the lens+reflector as an assembly.