Hi all:

I'm a pretty good self-taught mechanic who works well with his hands, and am trying to fix an electrical problem with a friends 84 volvo sedan. First of all, I'm not even sure what model the car is because it has absolutely no markings on it! If anybody can help me with this it'd sure help when/if I need to get parts for it!!!

The car turns over well, but won't start. The battery is new and the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor all APPEAR to be in good condition. I replaced the coil. Still no juice.

The car was at a professional mechanics. He found faulty, ungrounded wiring at the battery, which he fixed, and also added a short connector between the positive terminal of the battery, about six to eight inches long, which branches off into two lines. I'm not sure about the split and where it runs.

This guy got the car running, however. I had the car for a few days to go over and inspect it myself. It ran well for me and I had no problems with it.

My friend got the car and a few days later it died on her and wouldn't start. She tightened the battery terminals and it ran again...for a few more days. Then it died on her and wouldn't start. I drove 65 miles up to where she lives and worked on it for six hours or so, without any luck, exploring various systems. I still feel (sense) the problem may be in the main wiring harness, although the headlights were plenty bright when turned on.

I'm wondering if it might be the condenser. I tested both the battery and the (new) coil with a voltmeter to make sure they're good, and both are fine. But it still isn't getting any spark, so the next logical thing I can think of is that the problem may lie in the rotor, cap, or condenser since I'm getting electricity up to that system.

Any thoughts?...if you guys think it's the condenser would you be so kind as to run me through the procedure for testing it?...

Thanks in advance,
Mark

 

I assume it has a pisk up in the dist?
They are kind of known to go bad.

Also does the car look like this in the link?
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...3Doff%26sa%3DN

 

Yes, that looks like the car...right down to the color. Now, regarding a pisk, I've never heard of this and so am not even sure what it is. Would you mind providing me a little more information about it? Also, how much might this piece cost?...

Thanks again,
Mark

 

Sorry there was a typo there it was supposed to be a Dist. Pick up coil. There is a plug that plugs directly in to the Dist. correct?

That might be the issue with the car.

Also since we now know it is a 240 I am going to mive it to the 240 forum.

 

Yes, it has a plug that plugs directly into the distributor, so I'll check the pick up coil. Is there a way I can test this to ascertain it's the problem?

I also read a couple other threads about electrical no-start problems and saw mention of the immobilizer and ecm. Should I consider these too?

Mark

 

That car doesn't have an immoblizer. It is to old.

I don't have the specs home for testing.

I know you have to have power going to it. Then when the Dist moves it activates the coil to spark.

I think it is a electronic fuel injected car. Also if the pick up is good when the Dist cranks the injectors should pluse. The dist controls the coil and injectors.

 

OK, so an immoblizer is ruled out...good. It's one less thing to consider.

I'm pretty sure the car has an electronic fuel pump, but it has spark plugs and not injectors. None the less, I wasn't getting any pulse at the plugs...no spark whatsoever.

Regarding that pick up coil in the distributor you mentioned, is that a separate component from the capacitor in/on the distributor? If so, that capacitor might be something else I may want to consider...

 

Yes the car has injectors they are between the fuel rail and intake manifold.
I don't think it is a CI car if it was then the injectors would be in the head.

The pickup is inside the Dist. If you remove the Dist cap then the plastic washer looking thing then you will see the pickup mounted inside.

 

It would be helpful to know the model, year, and engine for sure. There should be a manufacturer's label on the right inner fender, strut tower. That will tell you the series, like 244 or 245. The VIN will tell you the engine and year.

Example, YV1AA8850L1851027. The 6th and 7th digits are 88 which tells you the engine is a B23F or B230F. The 10th digit is L for 1990. D=1983, E=1984, F=1985, up to O for 1993.

If it is a 1984 B23F, the ignition system is LH-2.0. There is no condenser or points in the disty. There are two relays which control the distribution of electrical power to the system. (1) system relay, (2) pump relay. They are mounted inside the car on the firewall at the passenger's feet near the ECU. If those relays are over 10 years old they should be replaced.

Post back.

 

Make sure you have 12v at the coil with the key on and the rotor turns while cranking - suggesting the timing belt is good.

 

I spoke with a guy at a Carquest today and was informed the pickup assembly costs $165.00 and the ecm is $405.00. A rebuilt distributor is $400.00, and a used one is probably half that.

I do remember the disty having no points when I inspected inside it.

Can anybody tell me the procedure for checking the pickup and ecm? It'd be nice to test and verify is these are the culprits before shelling out the big buxxx.

The car is 65 miles north of where I live and I don't know when I'll be able to get to it again, but will better define the model and engine when I get up there. Will also look for those two relays mentioned...and will keep you guys posted.

 

Two different ignition ECU's were used - see if you have the unit in the attached picture on the windsheild fluidreservoir ...

[IMG]local://upfiles/15703/1890D094C4104F9C87A05EB30A908569.jpg[/IMG]

 

If it's a B230 engine, go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free no-start guide for 740 Volvos.