Fuel Pump Issues

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Old 11-02-2013, 12:35 PM
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Default Fuel Pump Issues

Hi yes i have a 1993 940 volvo and the car starts but then dies i have already talked to a master volvo mechanic for a check up only and he said it was the fuel pump so then we took it to another mechanic to do the work for less so then we brought him another fuel pump from the junk yard and we tested both by hooking it up to a battery and putting the fuel pump in water and they both suked up the water so he put the one we got from junk yard in and it worked for a day then we had the same problem

so then we took it to another mechanic and he said it was the distributor because the one we had looked burned and was all messed up so we replaced it with a better one from the junk yard and the car was working fine for a week then suddenly died at a red light the mechanic said the car does get spark and the timing and compresstion seems good but the fuel pump is not in right meaning when you turn on the car my gas displays i have no gas when i do becuase i believe the plastic casing is not cliped in well but should this matter because all this does is display if i have gas or not and not effect the fuel pump because the fuel pump itself works meaning if you give it electricty it will suck up and work but when i turn the key ignition i hear no fuel pump for 1-2 sec
 

Last edited by floz313; 11-02-2013 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:18 PM
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are you talking about the main pump or the in-tank pump (or is this car 'regina' with only a single in-tank pump) ?

and wow, thats a mess of a run on question.
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:35 PM
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i am talking about the fuel pump that is located near and inside the back of the trunk of the car
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:52 PM
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thats the tank pump.


been a rash of reports of aftermarket tank pumps and fuel level senders not wired properly such that the pump and level sensor wires are swapped.
 
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:19 PM
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There are Bosch ones on ebay for $80 or so (thats what I used) and stores usually have ones for about the same price. A buddy of mine bought a "after market" one on ebay for $25 and guess where that story went haha

floz313 - did you replace the strainer when you changed the fuel pump? Those can get clogged and cause issues too
 

Last edited by 240-FAN; 11-04-2013 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:20 PM
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btw, Pierce, is my 1991 244 a LH 2.2 or 2.4? How do I find it?
 
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:27 PM
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1989+ 240's are LH2.4. non-turbo 740/940's could be regina or LH2.4
 
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:42 PM
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A buddy of mine bought a "after market" one on ebay for $25 and guess where that story went haha

What do you mean by this? because i have went to a junk yard and took apart a 90's volvo fuel pump that looks exaxtly as my 940 1993 and i was planing on replacing that fuel pump with one i have bought on Ebay is this a good or bad idea? because when the fuel pump arrives i plan on taking it to a mechanic to install it because it cost 40$ and states it is compatible with a volvo 940 1993 or should i just keep the original fuel pump i took from the junk yard with everything attached and just have the mechanic install it that way? also the fuel pump was pulled from a non turbo volvo and my car is not turbo eather so i assume they both are REGINA injection

New Replacement Fuel Pump and Install Kit 3607 | eBay
 

Last edited by floz313; 11-05-2013 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:22 PM
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My buddy bought one for $25 3 years ago from ebay. It would not run - period. We went nuts trying to figure what was happening and even tore the pump apart since it was only $25. Turns out they all have the wiring backwards which messes things up.

My advice would be to buy a Bosch or Airtex one. They are direct fit ones (no switching wires) that last much longer. Another advice would be to get a new sock/strainer (its right at the bottom of the sending unit like a filter - they almost always tear when you try to remove the assembly out of the hole) and also depending on the condition of the lock nut/bung nut as well as the o-ring get new ones (preferably buy all of these from the dealership - I got mine about 1.5 years ago. The o-ring was about $2, the strainer was $5 and the bung nut itself was $8).

As far as turbo/non-turbo, I believe that it doesnt matter. I read somewhere that NA red block engines can survive just fine with one pump and Volvo added the 2 pumps in every car to make assembly simpler and of course design a car thats not origami.

And while you are it, consider replacing the fuel filter too. Clogged filters almost always create hassles and shorten fuel pump life. Purolator ones are for like $35 at advance auto.

My final two cents of advice - the English on that ebay page is rather interesting and I would keep an eye out on that pump after you get it before installation.

Good luck
 

Last edited by 240-FAN; 11-05-2013 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:20 PM
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don't assume they are both Regina. non-turbo 940's can be Bosch LH 2.4 *or* Regina. Regina 940's have a square ignition coil, they do NOT have a MAF, instead they have a air temp probe in the air intake plumbing, and regina 940's have a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT FUEL PUMP, where the in-tank pump develops the full 44PSI, there is no seperate pump under the car (to further confuse things, 1994/1995 LH2.4 940's ALSO have this single pump configuration, using a bosch high pressure pump, which is the same one used on 850's and other newer models).

on the cars with the external main pump, the in-tank pump was added back in the very early 80s to prevent vapor lock, and to deliver sufficient gas when the fuel tank is low. if the in tank pump is broken, the main pump has to strain a lot harder, it will be much noisier.

also, turbos have a higher flow main fuel pump than non-turbos. you can use the turbo pump with a non-turbo LH car, but not visa versa unless you want to run out of power when you're stomping on it hard in midrange gears and upper RPMs at full boost.
 
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