I appreciate all your help with this. I may take it into the shop this week just for a look around. drives fine , so maybe not a big deal short term?

 

well, if the engine really is running too lean, thats harsh on its innards, and that knock sensor fault likely means its running in 'safe' mode with retarded timing to prevent knocking which means your fuel economy and power are down. but, reset the codes and see if they come back, they could be old and whatever problem caused them was transient or has been fixed.

 

we can only hope !

 

I have an appointment with a recommended volvo shop for thursday, they will address those open codes , I went to a local boneyard and found the door handle and fuel door I needed , I will work on those when it isn't so blazing hot outside. The shop says that they will try to check my a/c issue and fuel gauge problem ,but not fix if I don't authorize it at that time moving forward,,,,,slowly !

 

OK,,,Took the volvo into the shop , they fixed the oil leak , replaced timing belt and all the other belts , now the only code I get is o2 sensor (which I will replace when I find an affordable one). Next project is putting a radio in it. (orig was stolen before I got the car)I find a black plug w/ numbers on it , what is it and what do the numbers correspond to. I have a kenwood radio to put in w/ wiring harness , there is a pioneer cd changer in a rear cubby hole (stock)?there is a round connector that I assume runs to the cd changer and a ant. connect. can you guys tell me whick wires go to what? looks like a couple of the wires have been clipped and capped off. I am hoping for a diagram of which number corresponds with which color wire. Any help will make me grovel on the ground and praise your name !

 

um, those CD changers are brand specific, a different brand radio won't run another brand changer, without some kind of protocol converter, which will never work very well.

the original stereos on most of these models (what car do you have, again?) have 3 connectors on the stereo deck thats in the dash. 1) rectangular connector, usually runs REAR speakers and power and stuff, 2) round DIN connector for an amplifier thats often near the steering column under the driver side dashboard, and 3) the antenna.

I recommend getting an adapter harness that replaces the original amplifier (which is pretty crappy by today's standards), skipping that DIN connector entirely. this harness will have two connectors, one plugs into the rectangular speaker harness that plugged into the original amplifier, and the other plugs into the rectangular connector that plugged into the factory stereo... this double harness will come with the wiring color codes for connecting to the harness for your aftermarket stereo...

now, my 92 745T had already been butchered, so I ended up NOT using a harness like that, and instead wiring up to the raw wires. I've got the color codes for that somewhere, but I also used front speakers with seperate crossovers, and put the tweeters in the dash positions and the woofers in the doors, so this made life more complicated.

 

You are GOOD ! I have a 940 wagon. The new stereo and harness connector should arrive wed. I will see what it all looks like and then maybe I will be able to be more specific. All the wiring diagrams I have seen on-line have been so small and grainy I can't figure which pin does what ! I am not interested in the cd changer anyway , will prob. pull it out and clip the connector.Plan is to install my sirrius radio as I really love that !

 

looks like the harness I have coming WILL bypass that factory amp.(metra electronics # 70-1120 )

 

the speaker wiring on my 92 740 (same as a 940) colors are like this...
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...6M1zjB8io/edit

but thats with my speaker crossovers in the mix (so my front speaker outputs from the stereo go to the crossovers., and the front dash and door speakers are wired to the crossovers). in the original, dash speakers were wired direct to the stereo, while door speakers came from the amplifier....

EDIT: ok, I just updated that google doc with the pin #s from my 1992 740/940 wiring diagrams, along with the power and aux stuff. NOTE THAT OTHER YEARS CAN BE DIFFERENT.

also, in my 1992 wiring diagrams, it looks like a sedan, rear 'parcel shelf speakers' are wired across the rear door speakers, but this wiring was done at the main A post connectors C and P at the left and right side of the dashboard near the firewall, ugh. I think if I was going to use rear parcel AND rear door speakers, I'd put an amplifier in the trunk for the parcel speakers and configure it for high impedance speaker input, then put standard 4 ohm speakers in the rear doors, this way the factory wiring is compatible, the dashboard stereo runs the door speakers, while the trunk amp runs the rear deck speakers.

p.p.s. I'm not 100% happy with my tweeters-in-the-dash and woofers-in-the-front doors. I think the tweeters should be physically closer to the woofers, and I probably should have put the crossovers in the front doors and flush mounted the tweeters right next to the woofers. my current config, there's something of a disconnect from the bass+mid and the tweet due to the distance between them. its not TOO bad, but its noticable on some sorts of acoustic music with a lot of dynamics.

 

you are the man ! I will see how it sounds w/stock speakers , prob change them later if horrible. I read your post about swapping speakers , so will try to keep that thread. Now , how hard to change out the o2 sensor? where can I get a good deal on it? Have not looked at why fuel gauge isn't working ,,,, another day !

 

the cheapest way to swap O2 sensor is to get the generic bosch 3-wire O2 sensor and splice on the original volvo harness. I'd as soon spend the extra $$ on the bosch 3-wire with the volvo connectors. its on the exhaust downpipe somewhere between the header and the catalytic converter, depending on turbo or not etc as to exactly where. basically you unplug both connectors (1 pin signal connector, 2 pin heater connector), and unscrew it. apply a tiny bit of copper anti-seize to the threads of the new one, being VERY careful not to touch the actual dome shaped tip of the sensor, thread it on and tighten it with the appropriate sized open end wrench, then plug in the connectors, done. reset the diagnostic codes and hope they don't come back

 

This weekend , I will probably try to install new radio in my 940 wagon. I would like to add a couple extra 12 V. power outlets. Thinking about placing them in the tray with the cig. lighter. What is a good circuit to tie them to ? For instance , I don't have foglites or rear foglites. can I tie this to that circuit? where would I do this> I will be elbow deep in the area of the radio , so hoping I can piggy-back in there somewhere. Any ideas? I have a two outlet unit with a short power and ground wires

 

over near the steering column is a black rectangular cover with a bunch of red wires. thats the main positive terminal, always on unfused power. put your own fuses on the circuit. you can pull as many amps off this as you want (well, within reason), just fuse your circuit(s) so that if your wiring shorts the fuse blows instead of burning up the main harness. and remember that this is unswitched power, so its live even when the car is off, so if you leave a high current load plugged in when the car is off, you can run the battery down.

for easy access, remove the driver side kick panel, and the knee bolster (two pieces, a vinyl/foam cover, and a metal brace, attached with torx bolts). the terminal should be somewhere just left of the steering column, if you follow any larger red wires, it should lead you right to it. you can run your wiring above the steering column, and snake it into the center console near the heater vent, securing it with tie-wraps so it doesn't rest on the column so that the steering doesn't eventually wear a hole in the insulation.

Not sure I'd want cigar lighter plugs in that 'tray', if anything is plugged into them, odds are pretty good you'd have problems putting the shifter in 'Park' ... I'd probably put an aux cigar socket in the glovebox, or maybe flush mount on the passenger side of the console just under the glovebox. alternately, I'd consider putting a 'powerpole' connector in the glovebox and make a powerpole to dual or triple cigar dongle if you have stuff that needs cigar plugs. I use something similar to that for my astronomy gear, powerpole connectors are far more reliable than cigar plugs, but some stuff comes with the cigar plugs so you have to live with them.

15 Amp Unassembled Red/Black Anderson Powerpole Sets

 

maybe the glovebox is a better idea , altho I was thinking that the tray beside the lighter is deep enough to leave room for power cord for phone, sirrius radio etc. maybe not tho. thanks for the heads up on the wiring , but I am kinda looking for something that is "off" when the car isn't running. (so I don't have to manually switch off the sirrius.)

 

well, the fog light circuits go through a relay in the relay panel, disappear into the wiring harness, and come out near the lights, so thats probably not useful.

pretty much all switched power more than an amp has to be on a relay.

if you don't have seat heaters, there's a relay switched circuit that supplies power to the heated seat circuit, this is a 25A circuit that goes through fuse 23 (leftmost one of the sideways fuses in front) and the wire for this out of the fuse panel is red-black, and goes to pins 8 and 9 of a 9 or 10 pin connector "A" thats near the fuse panel, and is wired to the seat heater switches that are near the shifter, each of those heater switches is on its own 3 pin connector where red-black is the power into the switch, these three pin connectors are probably right near those switches. black at that connector is ground, too. you'll have that bypass relay anyways as it also supplies power to the power windows (via a different fuse).

 

this sounds perfect ! I can just use those wires at the non-existant switch and maybe move them to connect to my power outlets? 25 A should be more than enough , right?

 

yeah. 25A is plenty. most cigar lighter devices aren't much over 5A, a few are 10A. many like USB chargers are more like 0.2 amps

the seat heater switches are just aft of the shifter, and the drawing shows the switch-to-connectors as quite short, so I'd expect these to be right next to the shifter frame under the console plastic. you could even put your sockets in the armrest storage box, if thats convenient (mine is full of CDs )

 

ok , just had a look under the console , I see no wires near the shifter except a bundle that heads to rear of the car. maybe a small harness with what looks like a small blue light? (rear ashtray coutersy lamp) nothing that might terminate by the non-existant seat heater switches

 

oh. just looked at the parts catalog. there are two versions of the harness, one for seat heaters only, and the other for seat heaters + power seats. if you have neither, then odds are that harness wasn't installed at all. which means the wire for fuse 23 probably ends at connector A, the 10 pin somewhere near the fuse/relay panel. this connector has a bunch of other stuff running through it, including the dashboard lights. its the sort of connector with two parallel rows of 5 pins, offset by one pin (like .::::' )

odds are the red-black wires from the fuse panel goes into pins 8,9 on it, but there's nothing on the other side. if thats the case, you could use a vampire tap on one of the red-black wires, or you even could get the right sort of pin/socket to fit into the other half of the connector shell and attach your wire(s) there, I've got the part numbers for the various pins, catch-22, I dunno what pins go in this particular connector as I haven't been able to locate the connector on the parts diagrams, only on the wiring diagrams, where they don't use part numbers :-/

 

seems you have a good source for wiring diagrams, is there a link you can send me? hopefully in color that's big enough that I can read it ! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your assistance with all of this. Thank you , again.