I have a '92 240 where a PO replaced the drivers door with one with a crank window...and in the process basically ditched all of the wiring associated with the power windows in the vicinity of the door. So...I have two open pigtails under the steering column (one for central locking -3 pole I think & the other feeding the passenger front window motor I believe? - 4 pole...maybe also feeding the rear). I'm not sure what all I have in the way of questions, but I think they are along the lines of this;

1. Would it/should it be possible to bypass the central/drivers switch wiring so the other 3 window motors & switches get power? (a temporary fix)

2. SHould I be able to get the wiring pieces, switches and regulator to install in an crank window door? (I realize that with some luck with paint/color it could be easier to replace the whole door...and the PO did about as good a job matching the white color as he/she did with the wiring so there's not a lot to lose there)

3. I understand the wiring from the central switch runs from under the left side of the dash back to the LR door and then across the car via the floor to feed the RR door. I didn't see an obvious disconnected lead that would be heading that way...what should I be looking for?

Otherwise, the car is reasonably solid and idea in a number of factors for what I intend or otherwise I'd have not walked but *run* away at the sight of the ridiculous door replacement.

Thanks in advance

 

oh, this should be fun! call me Mr Electric, I seem to be stepping into a bunch of these of late. but, equipped with the 'greenbook wiring diagrams, muahaahahahaah.

ok, first the window harness. there's a harness across the dash, has the window relay in the middle, a 3 pin plug "D" for the passenger front door and a 9 pin (3x3) plug "F" near top of the fuse panel, also has a couple wires down to fuses 10 and 12. plug F has a harness that goes to the drivers switch panel, and motor and it also has a 9 pin plug "G" (also 3x3 pins) that is down at the base of the drivers door frame (locations give are as drawn, not 100% trustworthy), G in turn has the harness to both back doors.

according to the wiring diagrams, the passenger front window should work even if plug F is disconnected as long as the relay is in place and fuses 10 and 12 are good. the spade lugs by fuse 10 should have a brown wire on the middle or closest spade that goes to this harness, and a blue-yellow wire on the middle or closest spade to fuse 12. fuse 10 gets power always, and fuse 12 gets power when the ignition key is on.

to power the back windows, you'll need to run a wire between "F" and "G", connecting the red wire on F to the yellow wire on G (the rear seat enabler switch did this).

to further identify plugs "F" and "G"... each is 3 rows of 3 pins, and has 2 rounded and 2 square corners. pin numbers aren't given in the diagrams I am describing the connections from the wire side of the 'female' part, with the round corners 'up' and square ones 'down'. adapt. plug "F" has 4 wires, white to the lower left corner, black to the upper left round corner, red to the upper right round corner, and green to the lower right square corner. socket "F", the MALE part is on the harness under the dash, and the female part went into the door and down to "G"

plug "G" is the same sort of 3x3,and will be described the same way, in this case, the 'male' part is on the harness that went to "F" and the door, and the female part goes to the harness under the driver side door sill and back to the rear doors. facing the back (wire side) of the female socket, with the square corners down... it has 5 connections.... lower left (square corner) is brown. upper left (round) is green. upper right (round) is blue. lower right (square) is blue-yellow, and the middle position is yellow.

 

ASSUMING the car-side harnesses are intact, with connectors F male and G female, then you would need A) an electric window regulator (not expensive from aftermarket) and the drivers door switch panel, and driver door harness (get this from a pick-n-pull, probably any mid 80s or newer 240 is compatible, just guessing).

edit. random sample, 1986 is exactly same as 1992.

 

Thanks. My schedule probably won't allow me to sort through this too closely for a day or so, but right off the bat I guess I ought to have asked what's the best wiring diagram source. I have one I pulled from the 'net and I have the rather generic one in a Haynes manual.

An inexpensive donor door would work well even if I just used the switches , wiring and motor/regulator, right?

 

no worries. i'll be out of town for ~5 days starting early AM tomorrow anyways.

the ONLY good wiring diagrams are the Volvo greenbooks. you used to have to buy them in hard copy for like $50 each, one per year for wiring (there's 100s of others covering things like mechanicals, transmission, etc). some crazy swede got permission to go through Volvos master libraries in Sweden, and scanned every single bloody greenbook still available for every car they ever made up to like 2005 when they stopped doing printed documentation. These scans are available in rather heavily copy protected format on DVDs, one per model family of cars (one DVD has ALL 200 series cars from the 70s to the 90s), these disks are like $65 each from VCOA. Multimedia

the copy protection is such that you can only view them on one computer (at a time) and you can only have like 3 different manuals open at once. you CAN print pages, but they are rather heavily water marked, you can NOT screen capture or make PDFs from them. Caveat Emptor. still worth it IMHO.

 

I am not afraid of digging into electrical issues with cars as my name would imply on the fan of old Fiats so the Volvo is relatively simple stuff. I found the connections. And they are intact. It looks like what is missing is a central ground. Many thanks this helped tremendously.

 

ah, if by central ground, you mean the one in the middle of that cross-the-dashboard harness somewhere near the window relay, that ground had only one purpose, to ground the coil of that relay. that relay turns power onto the windows when the ignition key is turned on, nothing else. the motor circuits are all grounded in the doors.

 

Well after I wrote that I tried connecting the green & white poles on "F" to a ground and the passenger window then worked in both directions. I suppose the same would hold true for the leads at "G" going to the rear doors. I'm probably using the wrong expression when I say central ground, but ultimately I presumed there would normally be a ground back to the relay from the drivers switch panel. Also, I was curious whether the other doors had good motors & switches and this was a way to check...so far so good.

Still can't imagine what would possess someone to botch the car so badly.