does anyone know whether i switch out the idle control valve does it have to be an exact match or can it be from earlier year volvos
i have an 89 240gl, the idle control valve has inlet on side and on bottom, some others i have seen form a T, will this work?

 

Are you 100% sure the idle motor is bad?

If the throttle body is out of adjustment the Valve won't work.

 

Here's what i've done so far, i've cleaned the throttle body, and swapped the idle control valve.
When you say adjustment of the throttle what part do you mean? the electrical connector on the backside?
Also i'm getting codes for knock and oxygen sensor.
It does not surge until the car is at operating temperature and only in park or neutral and occasionally on deceleration.
I do hear a vacuum leak on the passenger side of the car behind the glovebox. i've read about this somewhere else but can't recall what that means.
The car also idles high around 1400 rpm.

any help appreciated
thanks

 

With the car off work the throttle with your hand under the hood.
You should hear a slight click just above idle when you move it.
That is what turns the idle motor off. If you don't hear a click then the idle motor might not be getting activated at all. Also if the throttle blade adjustment is messed with that will also mess things up as well.

 

Ok i hear the click, one other thing i noticed when i cleaned the throttle was the plate had quite a gap for air passage when it was completely closed....do you adjust this with the two small screws? what is the clearance supposed to be. when it is surging if i hold the throttle back tight to closed it does stop surging? closing just enough to control the air maybe but still high revving

 

There is one screw for the throttle plate. It has a 8mm nut and the center screw has a slot for a straight screwdriver.

The throttle plate should be almost closed. I always adjust with it off the car.
It should be open enough to just see light coming through all the way around.

If you adjust the plate you will need to adjust the switch on the side with the 2 allen screws. Make sure to set it back up so it clicks just off idle.

 

well after troubleshooting everything else and looking a little harder at the throttle butterfly, there is more space at the top than the bottom the actual plate catches itself in 2 places. going to just replace it now....the surge is gone after a thorough cleaning and getting it to close as much as it can now just idles to high unless i force the plate closed then it idles down

 

I've got the same vacuum leak sound coming from behind the glove bax on my 88 240 DL. I hear it the most when I am accelerating in second and third. Is there anychance you remembered what is causing the leak or what it means? [sm=dontgetit.gif]

 

i found it in mine, the heater controls are vacuum operated on the passenger side if you remove the left kick panel there is a tank that the vacuum line leads to i replaced the connector and small metal tube and mine has stopped