there's a skinny hose from intake manifold to the 'turbo' gauge on instrument panel.

I believe there's another one that goes to the AC/Ventilation control unit but it passes through a one way valve and an accumulator tank en route to the A/C controller

 

Should be two. One with a check valve goes to climate control. The other goes under the dash, first to an overboost switch and then to the boost gauge.

 

Alright thanks guys! Replaced all the smaller hoses, just didnt do te ones to and from the IAC and the ones on the T under the brake booster (as i dont have hose for those yet). As I was doing this I finally found the flametrap/breather thingie. I had been hunting for that forever and accidentally pulled it up. It really isn't as hard to remove/replace as people made it sound. Cleaning it is hard part, nothing is removing the crap from inside it. Started with electric contact cleaner, then gas, the carb cleaner. No-go. Im ordering a new one. The boost gauge hose was crumbling at the intake but looked almost new once inside the car, so i didnt bother replacing the two hoses from the T (gauge + climate control).

The throttle body, your right i was a bit surprised. I took off the large hose and shined it in the TB and its caked around past the blade and on the blade's edges. Ordered the gasket and breather. Will update again once thats done.

 

One nice side benefit I discovered when running methanol injection is that the alcohol kept my TB spotless!

 

aerosol electrical contact cleaner is good for cleaning throttle bodies, along with a toothbrush...

 

I have both contact cleaner and CRC "Throttle body and intake cleaner". So either or, id assume? I have plenty of toothbrushes to sacrifice >

 

its probably the same stuff, hahahahaahh.. yeah, I'd use the purpose labeled stuff.

 

Quick question: Could my symptoms be caused by the complete lack of an O2 sensor? That does come just before the cat, right?

 

On turbos, the O2 is closer to the turbo and mounted on the down pipe. Yes, your car definitely needs a functional O2 sensor to run properly. Often neglected...but seldom deleted! Still, no O2 signal should not affect cold starts at all.

 

koriflame: what year/model car is this again? you really should fill out your profile under "User CP" so we don't have to ask these things, or re-read long threads.

I know *my* 1992 turbo 740 would throw a check engine light if the O2 sensor was missing or out of range, and fall back on a default "limp home" mode where the car runs kind of rich with the power turned down, but mine is LH2.4 and I believe yours is LH2.2, I've not worked with a LH2.2 turbo.

 

Not much difference here. When the car is cold and in open loop, it runs off of preset fuel maps from the ecu w/ no regard for O2 input. So...it being missing should not affect a thing...although I suspect it isn't missing. Now...once the engine warms up and goes into closed loop, O2 sensor input is critical. More so for LH2.2 as it can't learn around errant readings the way LH2.4 can.

 

debugging the CIS-E fuel injection on a 1990 mercedes 300e, I discovered you can hook a volt meter up to the signal side of the o2 sensor by disconnecting its connector and inserting a thin wire to the signal pin, then plugging it back together, and starting the car, using a DVM between the O2 sensor and a handy ground. optimally, once hte car is warmed up and under lambda control, it should swing between 0.2 and 0.7 volts repeatedly, high-low-high-low-high-low evenly. if you rev the engine to, say 2000 or 2500 rpm, it should change high-low several times a second, at an idle, it will be somewhat slower.

 

It's an 1987 740 turbo & will do. Actually it does have one, its immediately after the turbo. I looked underneath by the cat where I'd expect to find one and saw an o2 sensor sized hole filled/welded. Still, any chance that'd be a possibility? Ill take it out and look at it when the exhaust cools off. I think if its bad/rich running itd be black and sooty?

EDIT: Actually swift, you're right my problem is with starting/idle and the O2 shouldn't have an effect until its warmed up. I guess I can scratch that idea. Though, I guess if I have free time I could check it just for the heck of it.

 

Okay, so I know I'm doing a whole lot of thinking and not a lot of doing, but I think I explained the poor acceleration poorly.

Park or neutral: RPMS fly up if the gas is pressed
Drive (not sure about others): Until it's thoroughly warm RPMS seem to struggle to raise. Once it's warm it drives fine.

Other thing I noticed recently is that in gear squeaking can be heard from underneath. Out of gear, squeaking goes away. Transmission on top of something screwing with my idle?

Car is at 110k miles, and I just dropped the pan replaced the (clogged) filter and filled it back up with dex3 two months ago.

Fluid is as red as can be, no grits, right on the Max line (when hot).

 

So, heres maybe a piece of more useful information.

Unplugged MAF (with car off) started it, it idled fine but drove like ****. MAF is working i take it.

Found my multimeter and tested the IAC plug. It's getting 12.12 volts, that sounds good. The IAC motor howeever. I tested pins 1 and 3 = 42 ohms, pins 1 and 2 = 20 ohms, pins 2 and 3 = 22 ohms. Does this sound like its in need of replacement? The car seemed happier with it unplugged.

I'll test the TPS when I'm not stuck with alligator clip probes...

 

you could try cleaning the IAC out with some spray solvent (electric contact cleaner should be safe to use)

your resistance readings sounds more or less OK (I don't know what they should be, but 12V across 22 ohms is a bit over 1/2 amp, which is not unreasonable for a solenoid activated device). huh, tho, I thought they only had two pins? applying +12V to pin 1 and ground to pin 2 should cause it to open up. I'd do this between spraying said cleaner in... cycle it a few times, blast innards with cleaner spray, repeat.

 

http://www.fcpgroton.com/images/prod...ge/3517067.JPG

Middle pin provides a constant 12.12v from the harness the other two = no power.

I did clean it earlier in the thread, The TPS does tick at the slightest touch of the throttle, I read that the voltage to the IAC should drop significantly if the throttle is open, the voltage stayed at 12v. pinching off the IAC hose changed little to nothing at idle. The motor DOES spin, even when not at idle (is that normal?). I think I'm stuck between the TPS and IAC. I don't want to think TPS until i clean the throttle body this afternoon or this weekend.

Whichever it is, I'm going to order front and rear mufflers with it and redo the exhaust from before the cat back. Probably going with no cat like a lot of the cars around here. No emissions tests, police don't care.

Both mufflers and patched up with sheet metal as if they exploded at the sides & pipe connections.

 

Any tests I can run on the TPS while its off the car? TPS has 3 pins, harness has 2.

 

ohm meter across the two pins that the harness connects to, and it should be 0 ohms when the switch is closed, and infinite ohms when its open...


is this a LH2.4 car, with the diagnostic connector? there's a test mode where it will cycle various actuators, including the idle air control. there's another test mode where it will test various sensors for you, you have to manually actuate each sensor and the blinky light will tell you if its working.

Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes and OBD Diagnostic Codes

diagnostic test mode 1 is the normal reading of the fault codes.

diagnostic test mode 2 is the sensor tests I mention above, one of which tests the throttle position switch

diagnostic test mode 3 is the actuator tests where it cycles through the various actuators no the engine, like the electric fan, the injectors, the EGR, and the idle control valve.

in each of these modes, the jumper wire on the test connector can be in pin 2 for LH2.4 EFI related tests or pin 6 for Ignition related tests...

 

oh, on that idle air control... yeah, one pin is +12V or whatever, the other pin gets pulsed to ground to actuate the idle air control (I forget if it opens or closes when you ground it). I dunno which of the 3 pins is what. wiring diagram says pin 1 is +juice and pin 2 is pulsed to ground...