Intermittent stopping issued with 1986 240

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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 02:24 AM
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Default Intermittent stopping issued with 1986 240

Are there any obvious hidden things that one can check off,
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 08:05 AM
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Maybe a little more info is in order. The car doesn't stop intermittently? - that could be any number of problems with the brakes. The engine dies intermittently? - for an '86 there are known issues with the wiring harness tending to rot out causing all kinds of electrical gremlins.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 09:06 AM
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the engine bay wiring loom was replaced by the mechanic that owned it prior to he selling it to me.

why, he replaced it I’m totally unclear, he has never given me a clear reason

because the engine cuts out intermittently and it’s never done it in his presence, he accepts no responsibility, and won’t put any time into trying to solve the issue

ive supplied a s/h distributor, a new by-pass

fuse for computer.

ive cleaned earth leads from battery to body, engine to body, battery terminals and I’m now going to hunt out a fuel relay to see if there’s a little luck in that department.

This vehicle still has life in it, I just need to somehow get it in a position where it can live some more.

all advice and help is greatly appreciated


 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by freerbodyshop@gmail.com
the engine bay wiring loom was replaced

why, he replaced it I’m totally unclear,
because the engine cuts out intermittently and it’s never done it in his presence, he accepts no responsibility, and won’t put any time into trying to solve the issue
ive supplied a s/h distributor, a new by-pass

help is greatly appreciated
The wiring insulation on the engine harnesses crumble off and the wires short out is why it was replaced.

Check your - 25 amp fuel injection fuse and holder under the hood (if equipped), connections at all the fuses (corrosion on the ends), fuel pump relay - cracks form on the circuit board of the white relay - where the solenoid coil wires solder to the board. A magnifying glass is needed to see the cracks. Crack creates resistance, resistance creates heat, crack expands, more heat, current flows stops - car shuts off, crack cools down and shrinks - car runs again.

For an erratic problem - you need to determine what is failing, fuel or spark. I've had to connect test lights and fuel pressure gauges and run them to a spot visible from the drivers seat - Test light on the side of the coil that flashes - light stops flashing - ignition system stopped. Same with power to the fuel pumps.

In the distributor I've replaced just a couple of the impulse senders that were erratic and on other cars the plastic connector on the side of the distributor breaks and the wires short out. 1386800 and 1386803. (for that type of distributor, parts catalog list another type but never had to replace that style impulse transmitter) Have also replaced many bad ignition control units for the same erratic problems - those crack on the circuit board where the harness plug in. 3517641 You can take the board out of the black plastic case and see those - the board is covered in a clear silicone material - but solder joints are visible. (never tried to re solder those) The connecting pins on that board need to have "sleeves" to ensure a better connection 1324909. Picture attached. Those were installed after the car was built - maybe Volvo figured out there was a problem but new control units don't come with them installed.


 

Last edited by hoonk; Dec 20, 2021 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 03:36 PM
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if there is a fuel relay fuse under the bonnet, where would one look for it please?

ive been overwhelmed by all of the input from senior members here and I truly appreciate it.


I will go through all replies and list the suggestions and go through each one, hopefully one of the recommendations will help restore a little faith back into this old boy.

many thanks, will keep you posted
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by freerbodyshop@gmail.com
if there is a fuel relay fuse under the bonnet, where would one look for it please?
Fuel pump relay is located under the dash above the passengers feet. White and looks like this.




 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 04:48 PM
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I really appreciate the support that this forum has offered me, I’m starting to think a whole lot more kinder towards this Volvo, it sure has caused a little tension over the last few months.

today I’m going to compile a list together and have a talk to the mechanic (as he is/was a serviceman on these vehicles when they were new), to see if can help diagnose or maybe add to the list.

many thanks once again.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 04:58 PM
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passenger side kick panel? try there...
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by silvermine
passenger side kick panel? try there...
It's directly above the passengers feet, under (above) that under dash panel - was originally clipped to the firewall, most likely just floating around up there now. I've found them full of water many times!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 06:09 PM
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thanks good people, I’ve listed the many suggestions and have messaged the mechanic to see if he might have an ear available, so that I can run the suggestions past him.

he’s a big talker and because of his age he portrays he knows it all, I just hope he can find the time to have a constructive ear.

ill keep you posted.

I would love to fix this issue and then GIVE the car to someone in need.

it’s served me well, I’ve towed trailer loads of equipment and gear that total nearly 10,000km, I’ve run over 1,000 litres of fuel through the old boy, all within the last year.
its still got a few more miles to offer, it’d be a shame to have it crushed.

 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by freerbodyshop@gmail.com
10,000km, I’ve run over 1,000 litres of fuel
Sorry I've just noticed - you are from down under! Various engines are listed as being available for a 240 in 1986. Which engine does yours have? ( b200-230A, K, E, or F. Or a D24) Parts catalog lists carbureted engines, mechanical CIS fuel injection, electronic fuel injection and the diesel option.



 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 07:58 PM
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I’ve just taken a screen shot of your question and will forward it to the mechanic.
I’ve messaged him and gave organised a call/communication time that’s set to take place in about 9hours time.

He may come back to me via message regarding the engine model. He did own the vehicle for well over ten plus years.

 
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 10:21 PM
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the vehicle is a
B230E

any more feed back would be truly valued

 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 05:56 AM
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I’ve had a reasonably long conversation with the 75year old mechanic (ex Volvo serviceman), and he believes most if not all of the thoughts and suggestions of why the 240 intermittently keeps stopping have been dealt with.

the distributor has been replaced
the fuel relay has been replaced
the fuel injection fuse and holder have been replaced
the wiring loom was been swapped out with a very good quality s/h item
distributor cap and rotor have been replaced

I’ve cleaned the engine to body earth wire
I’ve cleaned the battery to body earth wire

I’m now totally confused and rather lost as into where to turn

the mechanic does tell me he has an original Volvo “school” fault diagnostic book somewhere in his workshop that might hold another pathway to help discover the reason behind the intermittent stalling of the engine.

I’m not going to hold my breath waiting for him to find this book, or should I say, I’m going to have to move on for now and possibly look at the option of buying another tow vehicle.

If the book turns up before the license is due, then the old Volvo might get to live another day.

I’d really like to solve the problem snd then give the vehicle to someone that needs transport, rather than send it off to the crushers.

Can I please lean on you good people a little longer ask you to please put your thinking caps back on, as I’m nearly at the end of the road.

 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 08:08 AM
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you don't say if the ignition wires were replaced so i think first i would take that coil wire off from the distributor end and make sure it gives out a good clean spark.



 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by freerbodyshop@gmail.com
the vehicle is a B230E
B230E is a mechanical fuel injection system. (if the intake manifold and stuff below it looks like the below picture) That system uses very high fuel pressure to operate. The line pressure is about 80PSI. Electronic fuel injection uses about 45PSI, Carburetors use about 3 PSI.

The most common failure if it's not the ignition system is low fuel pressure due to worn/bad main or feeder fuel pump. A fuel pressure gauge (designed to work with CIS fuel injection, with a scale that can indicate over 100 psi and the proper fittings) is needed to diagnose that. Picture of gauge below.

When does the car stop running - hot, cold, after driving a while, below 1/4 tank? Does it immediately restart? Do you hear the fuel pump whining under the lf seat? Exactly how does the car fail and what does it take to get it running again?

 

Last edited by hoonk; Dec 21, 2021 at 08:58 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 01:06 AM
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the input I’m getting here is blowing me away.
these Volvo’s must be a truly loved animal, normally I’d thrown this one in the bin, it’s just that as I’ve mentioned, I’ve driven over 10,000kms in it, towing trailers (done pretty heavy at that), every trip was like an adventure, as much as it has caused plenty of unrest, it has always made it home under its own steam.


The mechanic tells me the ignition wires were replaced about a year prior to my ownership.

I think quietly he was happy get rid of it, but I’m not that keen on letting him get away to lightly.

Even though he replaced the radiator, the air conditioning condenser, the engine bay wiring etc, I’ve been plagued with some pretty huge overheating issues (turned out to be a leaking heated cord), and in the process the over flow radiator bottle had to be replaced twice (one s/h and one new one), they keep cracking where the top and bottom were glued/joined in the centre. The air conditioning had failed, the engine mounts and gear box mount have broken. The list goes on,

I’m waiting on his Volvo school learning (problem solving) book and have just fired him a text asking, if any of the fuel pumps have been replaced, at the same time I’ve asked wether a low fuel pressure would cut the computer.
I ask because there had never been any symptoms of fuel starvation when it has stalked/died.

he tell me that when it stops next time, I need to pull over, leave the ignition as it was/is and then check for where the power has been lost, either fuel or ignition.

does this make sense, other than the setting up of test lights etc that operate while the vehicle is driving?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 12:48 AM
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Hello there again good people.

I owe you all a great big thank you.

It was really nice to know that somebody was listening, the suggestions I received from you all has been truly valued, it gave me encouragement when I was getting close to tears.

As you all know, the mechanic that sold me the vehicle had pretty much given up and stopped replying or showing pretty much any care or concern. And I tell you, money was never, and has never really been the issue.

But, I must stop knocking him, he is in his mid/late seventies, and in all honesty, I should of run with my gut the first time I cast my eyes on the Volvo in question.

It’s old and it’s done some pretty long hours out there. It has to of done close on 500,000kms by now.

But guess what, I think it’s got a few more kms in it.

There other day when it wouldn’t start, the day time temp was getting up there (mid 30’s) and I’d tried a number of things with no luck,
I spent a far bit of time typing (talking to you propel), and as my mechanic had stopped talking/replying to texts etc, I spoke to a modern (Mercedes trained) mechanic that I knew.

I gave him the chassis/engine number and he kindly hit the great Google inter web and came up with a suggestion. He told me to go looking for something (he found a picture on the web), the Fuelmiser Ignition Module. He gave me a gentle area under the bonnet to look for it, I removed the battery and the battery box, as the wiring loom traveled under the box, no
luck, but I did find that the radiator expansion bottle bottom hose appeared to be leaking slightly. I removed the bottle, checked the thing along with the hoses and replaced everything back under the bonnet as before.

I couldn’t find this fuel thingy , and as the day was drawing to a end, I packed up my tools etc.

Then for fun, I turned the key and the engine fired into life.

Well with that, trailer loaded and still hooked on, I decided to take the trailer load of hay out to the rural property where our sheep were (a fifty km trip), grabbed the wife and child and asked her to follow me in another vehicle (just in case).

Well the old grandpa Volvo had the journey without an issue whatsoever.

The sheep are located on a property that is owned by the Mercedes trained mechanic.
On arrival, we opened the bonnet of the running Volvo and I explained I couldn’t find the fuel thingy (well the photo of the thing he sent through), but in the windscreen washer bottle/radiator over flow bottle side of the engine bay (right hand side), there is a module about 10”x4”x1” with a (maybe 8 pin) good sized plug with wires going to it.

The mechanic looks at it, and believes that this thing could be the fuel thingy.

With this in mind, we wiggle the plug, wiggle the cable body of wires, and there is definitely something going on, moving the plug around a little, the engine idle plays around a little, moving the lead around the engine actually cuts in and out, but when the cable lead is lifted up and down (the loom heads down to below the front of the engine) and the engine dies dead in the water.

It’s agreed that I’ll leave the vehicle there, come back and investigate the loom another day.

Well that day has come.

On close examination, it’s obvious that the air conditioning compressor pump and the power steering pump and the mounting bracket have to be removed to access the loom properly.

With this done, the loom can be inspected. The outer installation is brittle and is completely removed, the wires/cables are cleaned and checked for cracks breaks etc.

Rerouting the loom over the top of the engine after replacing the pumps etc, the fuel thingy was wired up and the engine fired straight away, wiggling the wires individually didn’t have any effect in the engine idle, but playing with the plug caused the idle to wavier a little.

With this knowledge, a closer look at the plug revealed that three out of the 8-9 female lug ends were open to the point where one could pretty much hang their hat on this being the cause of the intermittent stopping issues.

Once again, I really appreciate your support and input.

Funny thing, I believe this part of the wiring loom was replaced, a few tell tail signs, where the loom travels under the sump, close to the front pulley, the cracked old installation had been taped, not just once, but twice. And I remember the mechanic (the seller), telling me he’d replaced the loom and had to put the pumps etc back in place.

The missing bolts holding the bracket to the engine block, tells me that this mechanic needs to close his business and learn how to play golf.

Very questionable indeed. I’m very disappointed with him, considering I’ve him on and off for well over thirty years.

It’s only a car I know, but it has caused me so much grief, I just hope thus issue has now been fixed.

Time will tell.

thanks once again

 
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