Well I'm getting a new low low milage 86 volvo 240 tomorrow. I have given up almost on my red 91. I couldn't ever get it to run with all new FI parts on it..
Anyway I'm excited about my new car it only has 68k original miles and it looks like brand new with volvo record maintenance book .
How do I post pictures without some web site?

I think I'm going to have to megasquirt my red 240. I plan on hot ridding that car out big time. Does anyone know if you can pass smog with a carb set up if I do a swap on my 91 240?

 

smog tests are locale dependent. here in California, it has to be totally stock, with all vacuum hoses, heat riser plumbing, charcoal canister, etc. the only way you'd get a megasquirt to pass would be to hide it completely out of sight, AND dial it to give stock or better CO, HC, NO readings, while using ALL the existing hardware, including EGR. If you're in an enhanced testing area, like the SFBA, greater LA, etc, then the car is tested at 35MPH on a dynometer.

Tthere's no way in hell carburetors on any 1991 engine will pass any sort of smog testing.

 

California is nothing like Texas . Comifornia . I believe I could get it passes but not sure about the carberator though. I know 86 would be ok fir a carb. Hopefully I'll get it figured out.

 

anyways, I don't understand what you mean by 'couldn't get it to run with all new FI parts'. you realize, megasquirt will ONLY replace the ECU and maybe ICU, and all the rest of the FI and ignition parts are the same ? same fuel pumps, fuel pump relay, same fuel injectors, same throttle body, same MAF, same coil and power stage, same coolant temp sensor, crank positions ensors... getting it to run with megasquirt, you will take all the existing problems and add in new software to debug.

 

It's had all new parts except for MAF, COIL, TPS sensor. The car ran home low on power but did fine until almost home then it died. It would idle fairly well but now it will barely start and idle. This car has no port for me to check the fuel pressure. I have replaced all relays, jumped the fuses and ecu to manually hear the pumps run. I'm getting power.
I have three ecus that I got for the junk yard to see if it changed anything? Still no luck. I also have another MAF used, nada
Also a used tps. I haven't realy checked everything with a multimeter. I started trying to probe the terminals on the ecu and MAF , tps.
I'm thinking it might be a ground?

I need to figure out ophow to get a fuel pressure tester to mate to the frame rail

 

The 86 car that I got today is like a new car it is super clean.
Problems I hear a lifter ticking?
Both right doors and hood have minor cosmetic issues. If it weren't for that it would be a perfect 68000 mile car. It drives nice and everything works except for the radio.

I plan on trying to get the ticking noise to go away and find a hood and some doors and paint them to match the car.
I'll keep the stock radio on place and add a satellite radio with remote in the glove box with a custom stereo
Why would a car with such low milage have a lifter ticking?
Could it just need to be shimmed?

 

a euro fuel pressure tester kit should have a T-adapter that fits on the main fuel line where it attached to the fuel injector rail, you connect the fuel pressure gauge to the T, then jumper the pumps, don't even have to start the engine. with no manifold vacuum, the fuel pressure should be 42-44PSI for a LH2.4 car (1989+), and either 36-38 or 42-44 for an older one.

ticking lifter, yeah, could need a shim, or could have a valve seat thats failed, hard to say. top and bottom ends of these engines should last a half million miles or more if they get regular oil changes and aren't abused.

 

Thanks a lot for the info . Where can I get this euro FP T? Ipd?

It really baffles me why the lifter is ticking. The engine does have a slight miss during idle but nothing major at all . Plenty of power and no major misses on idle. I plan on outing new plugs and wires on tomorrow and cleaning the MAF hopefully that will help the slight idle issue. I'll also do a compression leak down test under pressure to test the valve seat and compression.
If I can figure out how to post pictures you will be shocked at those condition of the car .

Thank you sir for your help!

 

I've heard you can rent those FP test kits at better auto parts stores, I dunno, the one time i needed a FP test, I had my friendly local euro mechanic do it for me

the compression test should tell you if a valve is bad.

 

Thanks I'll try to go to the auto parts store tomorrow and see what they may have. I sure hope to get the red car running its a shame if I won't be able too.

 

I know some people consider it snake oil, but I had a minor ticking "valve" sound when I bought the car a few months ago. I ran a few tanks with some Marvel Mystery oil added and the ticking is gone. Maybe a slight sticking of a valve due to gunk build up?

 

I never thought of a valve sticking. It's not loosing compression and it does have a very light idle miss at times. But still runs like a dream with plenty of power. I'll have to measure my shims and see if they are in tolerances we run marvel in our planes fuel and it does make a diferance!