Please only go to a Volvo specialist will save you time and $$ in the l;ong run. A timing belt should run you about $150 without front engine oil seals and about $300 with. I would definately have the seals replaced if you can. If you cannot afford and they are not leaking then I guss that's fine but if you can afford JUST DO IT!! car is not like a Honda where water pump and timng belt are in same location so if water pump i not leaking...leave it. Only if drive belts are cracked bad do you ever replace them. But they are cheap so if you want to replace now is the time...only need to replace tensioner if it's bad...if good leave it. If car is not overheating why replace thermostat? Not needed...Unless you are rich and very deep pockets and cannot do anything yourself, just have the timing belt and 3 front seals done*(and drive belts if you want). Now, if waterpump is leaking and you can afford it...replace it. If you have tested and found your thermostat to be bad, replace it...Of course MOST mechanics want to tell you to do EVERYTHING...why? Because THEY make $$$!!! I am one of the few GOOD amd HONEST mechanics. If my client is doing a timing belt and does not need a waterpump I am not going to try and scare them into buying a waterpump...I'm also never going to be a millionaire Good luck and take your car to a Volvo specailist that you feel comfortable with..try to find the dirtiest smallest shop you can...that's usually the honest one If they're smoking ciggarettes in the shop...even better

 

Alright ill have him do the timing belt and 3 front seals, and possibly drive belts if he thinks they are bad. Its not overheating, so i take it the thermo is fine, and the water pump doesn't seem to be leaking at all. So hopefully we can figure out the knock, the idle and get the timing belt done and just wait for the next problem...and hope its not for a long time!

 

To be perfectly honest with you, I wouldn't do anything or spend any money until you get the car running properly...timing belt is not going to change idle, etc...also make sure the sound you are hearing isn't a rod knock or you'll just be flushing your $$ down the toilet...

 

Good point. I ran the Obd1 tonight when i got home. Pulled a 2-3-2 out the number 2 port and the number 6 was all good with a 1-1-1. From what ive read its a code for adaptive fuel trim being to lean or too rich at idling. And that means??? I think that might be the issue for the idling, which may lead to the fuel knock? If it is a fuel knock. Also my oils been crazy. Got an oil change a week ago with 10w30 regular prompto oil. When icheck it when its cold, its right at top, right after i run its, its almost bare, or really thin on the dipstick. But before i got it changed, when ever i checked it the levels seemed to be up and down. I know this souunds like a real stupid question, but whats the best time to check the oil, when cold, or when hot, or running? 2-3-2Adaptive fuel trim too lean or too rich at idling