New Pads...Un-even breaking
Today i made the change over to organic pads on the front of my 91 740 turbo. The drivers side went on 1-2-3, but i had some problems with the passenger side. I pushed the piston all the way back but still could not get the caliper on over the pads. I pushed the two bolt holes back cause they had some give and i got the caliper on easy and still had some movement with the rotor. I went driving and the breaks feel great, a lot of bite and way less squeeking. But i see that the passenger side front rotor gets a lot hotter then the driver side. The driver side does get hot, so it is in use but the passenger side is just so much hotter. I did not bleed the system. Do you think the pads jsut need to be broken in a bit? I do think these organic pads from ipd are thicker then any semi-metalic i have used in the past on the car. Any ideas guys as to why the passenger side would seem to be working harder? I also dont feel any pull to either side when breaking. Thanks a lot!
Did you lubricate the slider pins?, the caliper floats or slides on the those 2 pins, if they aren't able to move the brakes will bind , the heat can and will warp the rotor. I had to replace both front rotors.
New pads take a short while to deglaze and seat properly too.
After doing my brakes I suspected they were binding due to gas mileage,
I pulled the slider pins and had forgot to lubricate them, instead of lube they were coated with black dust.
"I pushed the two bolt holes back cause they had some give "
thats probably the sliders (or whatever they're called). They come out if the pull the caliper away (hang caliper on wire from suspension spring. Might wanna check em.
Heres some 740 greenbooks info,
https://blarf.homeip.net/greenbook/TP30838_2
New pads take a short while to deglaze and seat properly too.
After doing my brakes I suspected they were binding due to gas mileage,
I pulled the slider pins and had forgot to lubricate them, instead of lube they were coated with black dust.
"I pushed the two bolt holes back cause they had some give "
thats probably the sliders (or whatever they're called). They come out if the pull the caliper away (hang caliper on wire from suspension spring. Might wanna check em.
Heres some 740 greenbooks info,
https://blarf.homeip.net/greenbook/TP30838_2
Thank you, i took the pads off today and i removed one of the pins and it was quite dirty, but i am having one hell of a time getting the other one out. I know now that this is whats wrong with my breaks but i cannot get that one out to clean it and re grease it. Any ideas on how to get this one stuck pin out?
Thank you both. After fighting with it all day i gave up it seems it is seazed up in there. So i lubed up the pin that i was able to get out and i got the new pads on pretty easy and i dont think they are grabbing the rotor anymore. But i cannot even explane how stuck this pin is, so i think i will have to get a whole new set up, not the caliper but the caliper houseing bracket? Is that what it is called? Im trying to find one online somewhere, id like to have a new one with fresh pins and such for my next break change. I know i can get the pins and hardware no problem but any tips as to where to get that caliper bracket thing? The part that the slider pins goes into? Thanks again.
It'll come out, just keep dousing it with PBlaster every day, unfortunately you cannot torch it cos of the rubber grease boot.Mine never seem tocome out ez the first time.!
I found remnants of some red threadlock compound on the pins/bolts, they don't want it coming loose.
I used a 12 inch copper pipe (1 inch) slid over the end of my wratchet wrench to get the leverage required on the top bolt, I couldn't fit the 24 inch breaker bar in the wheel arch.
Lying on my back with one foot up in the the top of the wheel well for leverage.
It was impossible to loosen with just the standard length wratchet.
On my calipers theres a slim counter nut just between the bolt head and the rubber boot, try counter turning that before or at the same time, I think I put a spanner on it and braced it against the knuckle.
I found remnants of some red threadlock compound on the pins/bolts, they don't want it coming loose.
I used a 12 inch copper pipe (1 inch) slid over the end of my wratchet wrench to get the leverage required on the top bolt, I couldn't fit the 24 inch breaker bar in the wheel arch.
Lying on my back with one foot up in the the top of the wheel well for leverage.
It was impossible to loosen with just the standard length wratchet.
On my calipers theres a slim counter nut just between the bolt head and the rubber boot, try counter turning that before or at the same time, I think I put a spanner on it and braced it against the knuckle.
Thanks again, but i really dont think ill ever get this out. Maybe i could take it to a shop and they could do it. But for now my breaks are back on and pretty much breaking even (greasing up the pin i got out def helped). So for now ill ride it out, and next time i do my breaks ill deal with it, spring time i plan to take my 91 740 off the road for a few weeks to re condition the bumpers and maybe paint the calipers a gloss black etc... ill try and deal with that bolt then. But thank you for all your input!
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