can someone help me i cant figure this out i have a 1990 240 dl and the brake pedal goes to the floor i had someone put brakes on and bleed them then it worked ok but still had some travel and the brake failure light comes on i had the master cyclinder replaced 6 months before this happened and then about a month this all happened and i was told when i had the brakes replaced and bled my rr caliper was froze so the guy replaced that today and now the brakes wont work at all he bled and bled them still goes to the floor what could be the problem oh yeah the lr caliper wont bleed only drip out when its opened

 

Brake hoses swell shut when they get old. Too, the brake bias valves in front of the rear axle often lock up and make bleeding the rears difficult. I'm assuming it isn't a professional working on your brakes? That's not really something to drive home working marginally. If you are paying money for these repairs...go elsewhere!

 

a pro is working on it but i was just trying to get some info on it i was thinking the brake booster is bad cause it wont pressureize and thats why the LR caliper wont bleed also you can hear a swoosh noise when you push the pedal

 

Well, here's the thing. The brake booster may very well be bad...whooshing typically isn't good but I've had my share that did whoosh and were fine. The brake booster is separate from the brake system; it does not affect the ability of the brakes to work. It merely makes the brakes easier to use. It multiplies the force of your foot. So, bad or not, the brakes should work. Certainly, if only one caliper is not working, the problem has to be on that circuit...somewhere from the brake proportioning valve and the caliper. If brake fluid doesn't come out of the caliper bleed nipple then one methodically works one's way back toward the master cylinder. Crack the brake hose at the proportioning valve, check for fluid flow. If yes, then it's probably the hose swollen shut. If no flow, then crack the line coming to the valve, if fluid flows the valve is bad. If no fluid, then you go up to the brake junction block and crack the hard line there. If fluid flows, you have a clog in the hard line. If no fluid flow then crack the incoming line from the m/c. Brakes don't need to be a mystery, the theory is quite simple. Fluid under pressure makes the brake pads clamp the rotors. No pressure...no clamping.