Same story as with my left blinkers not working in my previous post, I'm about halfway through doing a blower motor and blower motor resistor swap out (1986 Volvo 240 DL) and before putting everything back together completely I went to test everything and now I'm noticing that my power locks no longer work. They used to be powered by putting the key into the driver's side door lock and now that only is controlling that door itself.

Any idea what I can check to see where it might be disconnected?

 

what year/model car?

 

1986 Volvo 240 DL

 

k, lets see, on a 86 240, electric lock power comes off fuse 8, goes to the locking relay and the unlocking relay (yup, there's two).

the drivers door manual lock pin that you push up/down goes to a switch in the drivers door, and the key lock in the truck goes to another switch. either of these switches momentarily grounds the lock or unlock relay when the switch is activated. the relays in turn provide power to the solenoids in the other doors and the trunk to lock/unlock them.

when you lift and press down on the drivers door manual lock, you should hear the relays click, and the lock motors thunk.

those relays are side by side behind the center air vent in the console, to the right of the overdrive relay, and above the electric window relay.

relays 188 and 189 on page 2 of this diagram,
https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/relay_87_240.pdf
(86 is the same as 87)


first thing I'd check is fuse 8.... the same fuse powers the glove compartment and interior dome light. then I'd check pins 86 and 87 of each of those lock/unlock relays, that should be powered at all times (and are connected together with green wires, the green wire comes right off the fuse panel next to fuse 8 in the middle or front/leftmost position)

also check the ground (black wires) thats right behind the left side of the coin tray on the dash center console, just under that center vent... thats where the whole mess is grounded.

 

Fuse 8 definitely works because my glove box and dome lights both work.
The grounds (four of them) are all connected to the original screw that's mounted to the frame bracket.

That only leaves this: "then I'd check pins 86 and 87 of each of those lock/unlock relays, that should be powered at all times (and are connected together with green wires, the green wire comes right off the fuse panel next to fuse 8 in the middle or front/leftmost position)"

Not sure what you're referring to here with regards to checking pins 86 and 87 on these relays. I do remember them though, they are mounted right next to each other behind or below the coin tray and I think they are black. If you can clarify that'd be great!

Incidentally any idea what the white relay is for that's floating around in that same area?

 

by check those pins, I meant with a volt meter. verify there's 12V (battery voltage) at all 4 of those pins relative to chassis ground.

 

Gotcha, will do it in the coming days. Any idea what that white relay is for that lives kinda near the upper left part of the glove box over there? Tx.

 

Something else I'm noticing right now is that the glove box light is permanently on! 🤨 Like even with the car off and no key in the ignition.

 

The glove box light was permanently on because I have the glove box door still not attached and that turns the bulb off when it's closed... duh!

The power locks still aren't working though and I plan on testing those relays you mentioned tomorrow.
The other white relay I was asking about yesterday is the "overdrive relay".

Other than the power locks not working I'm also noticing that the car shifts out of park with no key in the ignition AND also without holding my foot on the brake. I can't remember if it did this previously but I don't think it did since I think I would've noticed it. I do still have the entire center area disconnected (from the gear shifter all the way past the e-brake) so I'm hoping that will cure this when all is connected.

 

the largish white relay is the fuel pump relay, this has volvo PN 3523608 on it unless its aftermarket.

white relay 3523804 is for the automatic transmission overdrive, these are NLA.

 

This one is number 3.802.220.

 

3.802.220 is the Kaeler (OEM) part number for that relay.

and yeah, as it says, its the OD relay. the two metal ones hiding behind it are probably the lock/unlock relays.

 

Any ideas about that gear shifter thing I mentioned?

 

been awhile since i've dug into a 240 shifter, but I believe there's a solenoid down in the shifter mechanism that unlocks it when the ignition is on and your foot is on the brake. you can manually unlock it by sticking a finger through the 'brush' in the slot and lifting up a little lever, I forget if its in the front or rear.

hmmm, not finding anything in the 1986 240 wiring diagrams, maybe they added that in later years? I know on some other european cars, like late 80s Mercedes, its a purely mechanical thing with a bowden cable connected to the ignition switch and shift interlock.

 

ok, 1991+ has a parking shiftlock, -1990 doesn't

 

When I use my voltage meter and touch its black cable to the car's ground only two of the clips on each of those two sockets register anything when I put red to them and it's .4 volts on each of the active clips with my voltage meter on the 200 volt setting.

On that larger white relay I get nothing on each of its four sockets connector clips. So now I'm totally confused here.

When I test the relays themselves with the voltage meter on the 20k ohm setting I get .91 for the white relay and .07 for each of the smaller greyish relays.

So the power lock relays and sockets seem to all be working fine but I still have no power locks and the Overdrive Relay socket seems to be dead which I of course hadn't even tested because the car is not back together to drive it 🤨🤨🤨.

 

um, the OD relay won't get any power til the car is running.

the lock relays, however, should have power on the pins I previously mentioned relative to ground. I don't have the schematic right in front of me right now to verify what pins are what.

 

I had the relays removed when I checked them, and two of those pins touched at the same time with my multimeter give the readout I mentioned.

Or are you referring to the socket itself, without the relay in it, when you're saying about the "pins" having power? Because when grounded the multimeter gives readings on two out of the five clips (pins?) on both sockets.

 

the relay can't possibly have any power anywhere when its not plugged into anything.

I meant, pins 86 and 87 of each relay socket, relative to a chassis ground... those pins on the socket should have green wires to them. fuse 8's output is a green wire plugged into the fuse panel right next to said fuse, this wire should go straight to one of those socket/pins, and from there more green wires to the other pin on that lock relay socket and both pin 86 and 87 on the other lock relay socket.

 

The reason to pull the relays and check them first is to make sure they actually work.
Then I checked the sockets, without the relays in them, to make sure they were receiving power.
I believe the test results I gave in the earlier post determine that the relays and sockets all work.
Now armed with that knowledge I will go ahead tomorrow and try to follow the trail of the wires for more testing.
As stated earlier fuse 8 works because the dome light and glove box lights were both on.