Power Windows Problem

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2009 | 12:31 PM
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Default Power Windows Problem

Hi,

About a week ago my fuse blew for the power windows. I replaced the fuse and it blew fairly immediately. I don't know when, I didn't test the windows for some time. I replaced the fuse, the windows worked immediately with the engine off and ignition in the accessories position. I started the motor and began driving and again at some point the fuse blew.

After consulting my dad, he said it might be that the motors are old and that they are drawing too much current for the 8 amp fuse in the box. I looked at the Chilton manual and it showed that there are two 16 amp fuses (positions 10 and 12) on the supply to the power window relay. After uncovering this evidence, I went to put in a 16 amp fuse and it sparked as I put it into place...windows don't work. I think that putting in this higher rated fuse has burned something up somewhere, any ideas on where to find the weak link that might go first?

With regard to my original problem I think there is also a short in the system somewhere drawing a high current but I don't know where. Has anyone had this problem and known how to fix it? Is it a problem with the window relay?

Any urgent help would be greatly appreciated! My windows are stuck in the down position and I can't leave my car anywhere for long...Someone might try to make off with this magnificent machine.
 
  #2  
Old 05-14-2009 | 01:04 PM
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To find the short you can begin by using a multi-meter to measure the current draw at the battery. You then pull one of the fuses, and check if the current draw drops a lot. If not, put the fuse back and do this with each one in turn. Once you found a fuse that when pulled drops the current draw a lot you can begin troubleshooting that circuit. Find devices on the circuit and touch them to see if something's warm that shouldn't be or can fool around taking things off the circuit to see if that influences current draw. While you're poking around check your grounds to make sure all is grounded correctly, clean wire to clean ground connection. There's as good as any chance that a wire connector either is bad or not seated properly.
Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 05-14-2009 | 07:35 PM
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Alright, thanks for your reply! I will check the current at the battery after each fuse. I am also looking for the break along the power window circuit and I need to locate the Power Window Relay. Can anyone direct me a little bit on where to find this? It's a 1989 Volvo 244 DL. From looking at other posts, people have said it's behind the center console, high and to the right. Can I reach it by removing just the kick board? Or do I need to remove the whole front of the center console? If someone could tell me what I need to remove to find it I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks again!
 
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Old 05-14-2009 | 09:49 PM
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Okay, I found the relay and removed it to check continuity at the connector. (I've disconnected the battery at this point) When I check the black against ground, I get continuity. This is normal. Does it make sense that I also get continuity when I check the blue/yellow (the relay coil power) against ground? Even when the ignition is in the off position and the battery is disconnected?

I also get continuity when I check the brown wire (power input) against ground. I don't get continuity when I check the red (power output) against ground which makes sense to me (the current has to go through the window switched and then to ground).

Can any of you make sense of this? I'm not sure how to go about fixing this problem. Appreciate it!

Johnny
 
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Old 06-04-2011 | 03:56 AM
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I got same issue---my girl said one day she saw what appeared to me a light smoke coming from the vents so I thought a short somewhere and when you spoke about the relay---that is what I need to check because when I put the fuse in I hear clicking coming from the center dash panal----perhaps a relay issue----let me know if this is helpful or if you know of another trouble spot. Thankx
 
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