problem finding right idle air control valve for 740

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  #41  
Old 06-02-2015, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by REVOLV
i just saw this! hahaha. See my sig!!! It's meant to be ironic, but damn, it sure fits the situation perfectly here!
Yea its. Deja vu everytime i see it.
You sir, are beyond your skill level at fixing this car. Whatever the heck you did to start a fire....! It is an understatement to say that burned wires will cause running issues.
All i was doing during the fire was turning the key over and my mechanic was under the hood looking at the ignitor to try to figure out why we had weak acceleration. The fire started behind the freon tank and neither one of us was near so i diddnt start any fire. U need to kill that noise right there man.
I honestly suggest that with your current skill level, you are best off buying a non-fried/hacked car at this point. Not trying to put you down or be rude. Being totally honest with ya.
If your calling a grey wire i put in between the middle of a red/yellow wire a "hack job" you need to kill the melodramatics. I drive this bitch without an idle and without breaks for awhile. I felt like giving my stiff *** foot a rest. It aint no thing to idle it myself just an inconvenience so dont telling me about my skill level.
 
  #42  
Old 06-02-2015, 03:02 PM
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there's no 'freon tank' in these cars. do you mean the A/C receiver/dryer thats up against the firewall ? the main EFI harness to the ECU comes through the firewall right near there, at least on my bosch/turbo car. not sure about regina. if your main harness caught on fire, I have to concur with Revolv, the car is a basket case.

and seriously? you drove on a public road without brakes??

ugh.
 
  #43  
Old 06-02-2015, 03:18 PM
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I can tell by your rhetoric that you are young and naive. Good luck.
 
  #44  
Old 06-02-2015, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
there's no 'freon tank' in these cars. do you mean the A/C receiver/dryer thats up against the firewall ? the main EFI harness to the ECU comes through the firewall right near there, at least on my bosch/turbo car. not sure about regina. if your main harness caught on fire, I have to concur with Revolv, the car is a basket case.
yes. Like i said none of us was close enough to ever trace that flame and looked all over the place for hours to even see burn marks and couldn't find them. It never done it again and we couldn't force the vehicle to duplicate that.
and seriously? you drove on a public road without brakes??

ugh.
If i drove a car vehicle with a gas pedal i had to manually idle with and bad breaks and still drove like any 26 year old without killing ten people i think you see the level my driving skills are at....
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by REVOLV
I can tell by your rhetoric that you are young and naive. Good luck.
Its no rhetoric. Im not here to get go on and on about a spliced wire and no matter what age i am i aint gonna be told i started a fire i diddnt.
 

Last edited by one to remember; 06-02-2015 at 03:39 PM.
  #46  
Old 06-02-2015, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by one to remember
Volvo 740 940 Rex Regina Idle Air Control Valve IAC Motor | eBay
I got that one.

Everyone i have ordered the part from wants to send me the one in the link below

GEGT7610 324 Idle Air Control Valve Fits Alfa Romeo Saab Volvo | eBay
I buy all of my parts from these guys. 1989 Volvo 740 Parts - PartsGeek
 
  #47  
Old 06-02-2015, 10:35 PM
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I get most of my Volvo dealer parts from OEM Volvo Parts at Volvo Parts Webstore

I get most of my aftermarket stuff from The Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialists Since 1963 or www.fcpeuro.com ... IPD ships faster to me (we're both west coast) but FCP often has stuff IPD doesn't, and/or is cheaper. OTOH, IPD are the folks for springs and sway bars and such.
 
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:37 PM
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Thank you for those part dealers suggestion i will decimately look into their products but i think still there is a wiring or signal issue and im going to follow that and see what i find.
 
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:47 AM
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Ive done those tests several more times with still no signal coming through the wire and I have bypassed by an excessive length any areas of the wire that were or could had been damaged . i believe either the ECU is at fault or the Throttle sensor at this point.

While its true I do have the non regina IAC hooked to it I doubt there are enough differences beween the regina and bosch IACs to where I would get no functionality at all from a part I know to be good.
 
  #50  
Old 06-09-2015, 10:34 AM
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the throttle sensor is a simple on/off switch. trivial to test with an ohm meter.


DTM 3 on the diagnostic block pin 2 will test the IAC by cycling it off/on/off/on, so simply hooking up a test light across it should light, go out, light... you also should hear the ICU click-clacking softly during said test. see https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...agnosticCodesi for the DTM 3 procedure.
 
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
the throttle sensor is a simple on/off switch. trivial to test with an ohm meter.


DTM 3 on the diagnostic block pin 2 will test the IAC by cycling it off/on/off/on, so simply hooking up a test light across it should light, go out, light... you also should hear the ICU click-clacking softly during said test. see https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...agnosticCodesi for the DTM 3 procedure.
thats what im saying. It doesnt make the IAC do anything and the test light on it during the test doesnt flicker and this is after i followed the wires far back to a safe point that had no damage and it still has no reaction to the testing mode.
 
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:47 PM
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ok, I think my next test would be to unplug the ECU and use an ohm-meter on the harness plug side, between pin 9 (relay switched power) and pin 33 (ICV), the ICV should be around a few ohms (definitely not k-ohms). measure the resistance at the ICV connector, and you should see the same value. if the ICV itself is a few ohms, but at the ECU harness shows it open circuit, you got bad wiring. or if there's a short to other wiring, the short will be tricky to test as there's a lot of other stuff wired to pin 9, including the fuel pump relay, and the RSR relay, and the injectors.
 
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:48 PM
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ECU pin 9 should be connected to one side of the injectors AND to ICV pin 1 on Regina. ECU pin 33 should be connected with a red-black wire to ICV pin 3.
 
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:24 AM
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
if there's a short to other wiring, the short will be tricky to test as there's a lot of other stuff wired to pin 9, including the fuel pump relay, and the RSR relay, and the injectors.
Do you have a link to a relay lay out for this car? I do know the fuel pump isnt making a sound now but the pump still works with direct juice from the battery. Im wondering what the purpose of the other relays are since I don't have the manual to tell me.
 
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:14 PM
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Update: i hooked up my original fp relay bypass to see if the fuel pump would work and it did. The new relay i bought allowed the bosch idle valve to click when i turn the key over. The test light stays lit but dim with key on. Revving and starting the car gets more juice into the test light brightening it. Icv still doesn't really react to the test mode though but ill install the lines back later and see if the engines stays idling tomorrow.
 
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by one to remember
Do you have a link to a relay lay out for this car? I do know the fuel pump isnt making a sound now but the pump still works with direct juice from the battery. Im wondering what the purpose of the other relays are since I don't have the manual to tell me.
my wiring diagrams are all copy protected, from the 240 and 940 DVD's (91, 92 740 are same as 940), sold by VCOA.
 
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
my wiring diagrams are all copy protected, from the 240 and 940 DVD's (91, 92 740 are same as 940), sold by VCOA.
I got a manual for a 94 940. Ill see if thats of use.

Did you read my update above?
 
  #59  
Old 06-15-2015, 09:37 AM
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Default Mutimeter $5 shipped. RELAY IS NUMBER 135 in the DIAGRAM!!

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...tbm=shop&spd=0







Originally Posted by pierce
there's FAR more useful info here than in any aftermarket books.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQIndexNew1.htm



the best source for older volvo stuff are the original Volvo "Greenbooks", but the catch-22 is, these are out of print and no longer available. also, a complete collection of all the greenbooks for a given year would have set you back a big chunk of moola. When they were still available, I bought a real Volvo 1992 740/940 Electrical Wiring greenbook, it was $59. ouch. Recently VCOA has made available DVDs of the greenbooks, one each for 2xx (1974-1993), 7xx (1984-1992), and 9xx (1991-1998). these are annoyingly well copyprotected, and are for personal use only. there are some missing greenbooks and little errata info.

here's a wiring diagram page from the electrical greenbook for 1989 740 Regina




.
 

Last edited by REVOLV; 06-15-2015 at 09:39 AM.
  #60  
Old 06-15-2015, 05:59 PM
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Yea that's pretty useful when my phone wont let me enlarge the pictures revolve
 


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