I have a 1990 240 Volvo DL. It has began to over heat when idle. When I'm driving the temp goes to back to normal. I figure it's the radiator fan. But I can't find it on my car. Is this most likely the problem? Is this something I can fix myself? Or are there any electric sensors that my also be bad?

 

It sounds like it could be as simple as your thermost...could be as easy as your radiator cap, could be your radiator is old and partially blocked only allowing flow through a small area. need more info, air-conditioning? on/off? do you live in the south? the north? Do you have the proper ethylene glycol to water ratio? these and other questions...

 

DO NOT let the car overheat. A warped head means a top end rebuild which can set you back $1-$2 grand at a shop. If the coolant’s never been changed and you've been using tap water, chances are it’s time for a new radiator. They're under $100 and easy to replace.

But start with the simple stuff, fan clutch, thermostat, I’m not sure the ‘90 240 had an electric fan in front but it did have fan with a shroud driven by a pair of belts over the alternator and around the water pump. Check your belt tension and spin the fan to gauge resistance.

BTW , Somewhere there has to be a big fan. if it's missing, then there's your probem.

 

Well, this morning it didn't overheat. I was even stuck in traffic. Weird. I think I will replace the radiator because it's better to be proactive then wait and it seems to be easy. I have a few questions, please:

1) Are there any screws or bolts that hold the radiator underneath the car? What about the motor fan cover that is attached to it?

2) There are two metal tubes that are connected to the radiator. What are those and should I be concerned about?

3) I noticed the is a wide range of radiators quality wise for my car. Which would be the best one without me spend to much unnecessarily(I need to save money to deal with mhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/ttips/1/bt_close_off.gify AC problem)?

3) Since it's cheap, I would like to put a new thermostat in it. I live in Texas where summer temps aver. about 102 F. In winter temps are usually about 28 F on the coldest nights. Which thermostat would be best?

Thanks,
-Darin

EDIT: After taking the grill off it appears there is no Radiator fan. Is it supposed to be like this for the 1990 Volvo DL's? Also, there is a tube which looks like it is supposed to be sucking in heat which leads to the air filter box. My air filter box has some holes in it. Is this horribly bad?

 

The radiator fan i son the inside in front of the motor. Sometime sits a mechanical one that is driven by the engine. Other times its an electrical one. Should be electrical in your car. If there isn't one on either side, well there's your problem. If there is and you want to replace your radiator. Get the three row radiator that has a brass top.

 

Those metal lines are the air conditioning, don't mess with those. I looked at my kids '92 240 and there is an electric fan in front for the AC condenser, then the water pump fan for the engine cooling.

The box should not have any holes, it lets air get around the filter.

 

You have either a bad thermostat (most likely), or blocked radiator.
Change the thermostat first and see if it solves the problem-the cheaper solution.
Check for blocked radiator by checking it for cool spots once the car is hot-be careful, don't get burned! Also check the hoses-once the car is hot, both radiator hoses should be uniformly hot-if one is cool, then there is a flow problem meaning a blocked rad., then change it.
Your car does not have a fan in front, just the back, and is mechanical, not electrical, unless modified later.
Your filter box with the holes is bad, get one from a junkyard.
The metal lines going to the radiator are the transmission cooler lines-be careful not to strip them if you end up taking the radiator off-they are soft and may be rusty.

 

I am having trouble finding one for a Volvo 240 1990 DL. The most I have found are the 2 row(like the Nissin) and no mention wether the top is brass(assuming the ones I found aren't since they don't mention).

Also, there's so many diff. thermostates to choose from according to my climate...which one do i need for texas(summer 102F and winter about 28F)?

And I kinda overracted. I shouldn't say my engine overheats. It occasionally goes about 1/8 over the half way mark on the temp gauge. but that is enough to freak me out since it didn't do that last summer. fluid level is good by the way. hoses look healthy also.

 

Holy Crap!! "And I kinda overracted" I'll say, dont feel bad you are just trying to do the best you can..Your fix may be as simple as changing your thermostat to flushing and changing your coolant..never a bad idea, Your gauge might be slightly off and reading higher, Dont Fix It If It Aint Broke!!!! keep it simple, Verify proper coolant mixture, test your thermostat in a pan of boiling water... change it at that point, make sure you have proper flow through the radiator. Some times your hoses will collapse under suction pressure from the pump and decrease/stop flow..
Also easy inexpensive fix for the airbox is aluminum duct tape (Home Furnace type) 2 part epoxy combined with tape or just high temp RTV silicone..better yet buy a used one

 

All good suggestions above but also check the mixture of anti-freeze/water. It may be different than last summer thus getting a bit hotter.

 

If your temp gauge has not been modified you should probably do it. The '86+ have a temperature compensating board which is meant to stabilize the gauge readings. But after a few years the opamps on the board get flakey. Best bet is to pull the board and throw it in the dumpster, and jumper pins 1&3 that the board plugs into. If interested post back and I'll find some pics and detailed instructions. If you don't mind an erratic temp gauge then just leave it.

I wouldn't worry much about the holes in the air filter box. They are in front of the filter element. Next time you hit the bone yard you can grab one.

The radiator just sits on the front cross member and is secured by the two brackets on top. A Nissen 2-row is fine. You can probably get one from FCP or IPD.

Change the coolant every two years. 50/50 with distilled water. Zerex G-05 is OK. But I use Volvo blue.

Thermostat can be 82 or 86 or 92 C. Not a big deal. Use 86C.

The two tranny fluid cooling lines -- the upper one is tranny fluid coming from the radiator back to the tranny. Remove by using two wrenches in opposition. A 1" open end on the hex nut against the rad, and a 14mm (15MM?) flair nut wrench on the fitting.

 

bluegoose is right about the box and the trans cooler lines, I was looking at your photo of the condenser and though you were talking about those. SRY. BTW did you ever find a fan?

 

Naw, I never found a fan. What I'm going to do is buy new hoses and thermastat and flush out my radiator on my next weekend off. I would like to put a new radiator in since I really want to restore my car(even though I have no tools, knowledge, and no garage). But I can't find a 3 way radiator that is brand new to replace it and I need to be carefull not to get ahead of myself money wise.

I called the volvo shop and they say they use 91c thermastats...so I am a little confused on which one to get that would be appropiate. Today it got to a 104C outside if that helps any.

 

So there I was...Atlanta Goergia 98 degrees stop and go traffic, air conditioner working hard and I look down at the temp gauge and shes on the rise. Now I'm hearing soundmiami saying "dont let it overheat" So off with the ac open the windows and on with the heat!! imeadiately the temp drops! now I'm cruising not much traffic so on with the ac and sweet relief and the temp stays in an acceptable range?!..long story short when I get home I start at simple check the antifreeze looks nice and green but alas it only registers on the specific gravity as slightly above dirty water! no boil over protection at all! improved the ratio and fixed the problem.

 

If you are unsure if it is the guage acting up sounds funny but when the guage rises smack the top of the dash if it is the Comp board acting up when you smack the dash the guage will usually drop back to normal.

 

ahhhh the old slap the dash when something doesnt work routine, "Said with a Maxwell Smart accent"

 

LOL sounds funny but when the Comp. board goes bad it really works.

 

will this also fix my abs light on problem?
da da da da dant slap that dash!

 

This really sound slike a non functioning main fan. Your car has NO engine driven fan at all, or any sort of fan between radiator and engine?

Regards, Andrew.

 

uhhhh? I have an engine driven fan with a good clutch assembly, I also have an electric fan with no apparent means of support(cant see the wiring going to it) have never heard it or seen it operate, I understand from other posts there is a temp sensor living somehwere in the circuit that causes all kinds of problems..where it at?!?