Hello, im new here and I have a couple of questions on my 245. We just got it a few days ago and so far I really like it. My parents love the 240 series, they had a new one in 84 and 88, and we have had various ones since then. This one has 195,000 miles and seems to run great, but i have a few questions about it.

First off the clock(which i read almost always goes out) and the turbo gauge do not work, all the other gauges do though. Could it just be a simple fix, like the line being cracked or off, or is it something electrical? Second, again seems to be a common problem is that the glove box falls down and smacks people in the passengers seat on big bumps, kinda funny for about 3 falls but after that it gets annoying. Is this something that can just be adjusted? The steering also has a popping felling when you go from side to side, like turning around in a parking lot. Is this the ball joints going out? The turbo appears to be ok, but it doesnt have a surge of power when it builds boost like I would think it would. Again I do not have a working turbo gauge so I do not know how much boost it builds. I can hear it spool, but after that there is no compressor sound.(im used to my subaru's turbo being somewhat loud). Any help on fixing these small problems would be great

Here is a picture of it

 

Turbo gauge is now fixed

 

Well you wouldn't know how much boost it builds anyways with a stock OEM boost gauge in the car. If I'm not mistaken it is just a gauge that look similar if not xactly like this one picture below.


Number 12 above and the second gauge from the left below.



If they look anything like this you can't tell exactly how much your boosting. That is why you need to buy a real boost gauge one that can read I would say 25 In Hg and 25PSI.

Also if your OEM gauge isn't moving or reading anything the vaccum line to it might be cracked somewhere so replacing it with a replacement line would be in order.

 

I was planing on replacing it soon, you know what size it is so i can look for something that can fit in the stock location. Was thinking it was 52mm?

 

No I don't know the size sorry.

 

Thanks anyway

 

If not just leave it there hooked up and get an A-pillar pod and put the new boost gauge there.

 

Yeah, but I kinda want a oem look. I guess ill have to search for the size.

 

here is a video of all she has got
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e5...t=b5ff5658.flv

It still seems like it should have a little more boost. I was thinking about trying this mod, http://www.turbobricks.org/mods.php?content=art0021 , and doing a tbe with no cat. Should that give it some more power?

 

Sorry I can't view the TurboBricks forum. What does the link take you to.

Thanks

 

Yes it should have a little more than that.
I would install a good after marked boost guage and turn the waste gate a little more and see how much it ups it then.

Also if you want to get the Cat. converter out I have heard a 740 Turbo down pipe will bolt right up. The Cat on a 740 is further back than on a 240.

 

This is a modification to 240 Turbos that can allow you to run higher boost while lessening the risk of fuel starvation. It is a very simple modification that anyone can do in less than an hour. As always- do this modification at your own risk! I claim no absolute knowledge and make sure you have taken the precautions necessary to ensure your car's safe operation. I would strongly suggest that you use both a graduated boost gauge and an air/fuel gauge to monitor your system.


Some Technical Background and Theory
All 240 turbos have a boost enrichment switch on the firewall. This switch activates at 2.9 PSI by grounding terminal 7 on the ECU. Terminal 7 causes the duty cycle to go up to 64-70 degrees of dwell (71-77% duty cycle meter).

1984-1985 turbo models also have a cold enrichment switch. This switch grounds terminal 11 on the ECU when the coolant temp is under 131 degrees F. It is activated by vacuum not pressure. It gives enrichment for a maximum of 1.5 seconds when the accelerator is pressed. The vacuum hose that goes to this switch is cut off by a vacuum valve when the coolant temp gets higher. Thus the factory terminal 11 enrichment is triggered only during cold starts. If you have an older Volvo without the cold enrichment switch don't worry, your ECU is the same as later models (terminal 11 is unoccupied) and you can still do this trick. This modification will ground terminal 11 at a preset boost level you choose (warm AND cold) allowing enrichment when you need it the most.

Terminal 11, when grounded, puts the duty cycle up to 82 degrees of dwell or 91% duty cycle meter reading- quite an improvement over the normal boost enrichment (71-77% duty cycle meter). This extra fuel can help prevent detonation when running higher boost levels (12 PSI-?).

Detonation can be the result of many factors. Heat, octane rating, improper timing, and fuel starvation can all play a part in detonation. This modification only addresses one element- fuel level. And, as such these other issues should be confronted as well to help avoid engine meltdown. To learn more about detonation and how to avoid it check out the 240 mods section on the Turbobricks website.

This is a primitive method that meets my main requirement for a mod- cheap. There are better, more sophisticated ways of providing fuel (additional injectors, EFI) but, this is the cheapest. I figured it was worth a try. Another good element of this modification is that it works within the OEM system by retaining airflow measurement as a means of metering fuel.

For This Modfication You Will Need:
An overboost pressure switch from a Saab turbo (or another Hobbs style adjustable pressure switch)
A vacuum cap for one nipple on the switch (1/8")
A terminal and length of wire from a junkyard ECU (unless you already have the cold enrichment switch)
A small vacuum Tee (1/8")
Short length of 1/8" vacuum hose
A few small hose clamps
Several lengths of wire and various electrical connectors
The Step-By-Step

Set your pressure switch for the level you want to activate the fuel enrichment. You will need a multimeter and air pump to determine how to adjust your switch. Mine is set for 12 PSI. By using a multimeter or A/F gauge you can home in on a good starting point. Once wired up you can then tune the switch to activate after the point of stumbling, but before leaning out. More on tuning your fuel system and finding an enrichment point follows this section.
Find a good place to tap into the vacuum lines for the boost signal. Use the vacuum Tee to tap into the line. I put mine right next to the overboost switch (under the dash, driver's side). If you happen to have an '84-85 model with the cold enrichment switch it would be even easier to tap into the vacuum line there because as a bonus the wiring to terminal 11 goes right through this switch as well (should be the white wire).
Wire one spade on the Saab switch to a good ground. Wire the other to terminal 11 on the ECU (passenger side footwell). To find terminal 11 all you need to do is unscrew the ECU plug, the terminals are numbered. If yours is occupied you can splice into it either at the ECU or the cold enrichment switch (again, the white wire). If you have an earlier model slide your junkyard terminal plug into the unoccupied space. Make sure your OEM overboost switch has been adjusted to allow for elevated boost levels. If you don't know how to raise your boost safely do not pass go, go to the Turbobricks site and ask the mailinglist.
When your switch activates it will allow the ground to go through to terminal 11 and thus initiating the fuel enrichment. That's it, pretty simple huh? I would recommend you thoroughly read the Turbobricks modifications page to get a good base understanding of where this modification fits in the scheme of things.

What Can This Mod Do For Me?
At this point you may be wondering what to expect from this mod. I have a few observations of my own as well as impressions from others. First, grounding terminal 11 should allow you to run about 3 or 4 more pounds of boost after the point you would normally start to lean out. In terms of horsepower this would mean a gain of about 24-32 ponies. This, however, might be a generous assumption considering heat will limit power and the stock turbo will be less effecient at these levels.

How much more boost will this mod allow YOU to run? Well, every car is different. The state of your fuel system will probably be the largest determinant (although other systems will play a part as well). How old is your fuel pump or distributor, when did you last change your fuel filter or O2 sensor, clean your injectors? How new is your control pressure regulator and what fuel pressures are you running. These will all effect how your car runs now and how much you can benefit from the addition of more fuel. Currently a stock clutch limits me to running only 13 PSI so my benefits from this mod are yet to be fully realized. Others have found it allows them to run as much as 15 PSI with no ill effects.

In addition, grounding terminal 11 does not seem to affect drivability negatively. The addition of fuel can be as smooth as the stock enrichment switch if the activaton point is adjusted properly (more below).


Fuel Tuning Tips
First find your car's wide open throttle (WOT) fuel enrichment. Use a voltmeter spliced into the O2 sensor wire (in the engine bay, not the thicker cable at the ECU). A good place for the ground location is the engine block (I choose the valve cover where the ground strap is located). Place the voltmeter´s selector in the 0-1000 mV. scale.

Test: 4th gear, 2500 RPM, full throttle, maximum stock boost. It should read between 850-925 mV. (each car varies) If not, go back and check your fuel system. The goal is to maintain this level as you increase your boost. In a modified engine with over 12 psi, shoot for 920-935 mV.

Here is a helpful chart provided by Angel Morales:

850 mV.: almost lean but acceptable at moderate boost levels, best power.

920-935 mV.: the "good and rich" mixture. Safest mixture, cooler combustion, less detonation-prone.

945-950 mV.: too rich, visible black smoke, engine hesitation.

 

ok, ill look into getting another boost gauge, how do you turn the waste gate? Would a mbc be a good addition? I hear k-jet automatically compensates upto 12psi.

 

Unhook the rod at the waste gate and turn it out in half turn tries. See how much it ups the boost each time. If you go into overboost the car will run like crap.

A guy I used to work with at a Volvo dealership had a 242 turbo and upped the boost some and would beat stock 5.0 mustangs all day long. But his was also a manual trans car.

 

I have this one in my 850 and love it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOOST...mZ160140629984

 

Thanks for the help, ill go out tomorrow and check it out. Im actually looking at buying a 242 turbo on ebay, manual of course

 

Let me now how it goes.

BTW how do you like the Subi? My wife is a Subaru Service Writer.

 

I love it, so much grip, power, ect... reliable and safe. Kinda like older volvo's

 

I assume you hang out over at Nasioc as well?
The wife hangs there as well.

 

yep. and iwsti, clubwrx, thesti, and so on.... lol


Im about to go pick up a boost gauge