My 1993 240 stalls when the vehicle is hot and won't restart until it cools down a bit. Gas tank is full, swapped out AMM.

Symptoms- it starts running really rough and bucking and then cuts out.

Any ideas?

 

OK, I know nothing.... but ... you might check your coolant-temperature-sensor.

Unlike some here, I won't retype what is in the manuals. But the instructions are in the Bentley manual on page 241-17. If you don't have the Bentley manual, it is definitely the first "part" you should buy. You can get it on Amazon at Amazon.com: Volvo 240 Service Manual: 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993 (9780837616261): Bentley Publishers: Books. I'm sure there are other links and detailed descriptions of how to test this all over this site.

 

OK, I will take a look at my Bentley manual. Thanks

 

Well, it's definitely NOT the CTS... it only acts in cold starts, it will not shut off the car.

The Power Stage is known to have heating problems but not likely to cause shutoffs. Still, I'd check it, make sure it's well attached and its heatsink is ok: it is located on the driver's side fender wall. I'd also look at the Crank Position sensor. Coils rarely go bad but they might do what you describe.

Bentley's is fine but what if a person doesn't have one? And often a manual lacks much of what others' experiences may contribute to a problem's solution. I much prefer to look for solutions in forums, and we are fortunate that Volvo is one brand that likely has the best of forums, both in number and width of participation of knowledgeable members, with the caveat that there are also many who know next to nothing but chime in.

 

Thanks for the follow-up. Regarding the Crank Position sensor- where is it and how is it normally checked?

I have 4 -240's but never had to check out the Crank Position sensor.

Thanks much

 

the CPS (crank position sensor) is on the back of the engine, above the flywheel/flexiplate, where the engine joins the transmission, its near the head, and closer to the intake side. most CPS problems are due to its wiring disintegrating.

 

[QUOTE=lev;356865]Well, it's definitely NOT the CTS... it only acts in cold starts, it will not shut off the car.

I spoke to an FCP tech today and they recommended replacing the CTS. Now I am really confused!

Can someone clarify if the CTS could possibly be a cause of the stalls when the vehicle is hot?

Thanks

 

its pretty easy to test the CTS... pull the ECU (its on the right side of the passenger footwell, just behind the door hinge, behind the panel, so remove the kick panel and the side panel and there it is). look inside the harness connector, with a small bright flashlight, you should see the pin numbers. take a digital volt meter in "OHMS" (resistance) mode, and measure the resistance between pin 13 and ground (pin 17 or pin 5 are both grounds). See the temp/resistance table here... Engine Sensors

if its even close, you're probably fine. if its way off, bingo, you have the problem. if you want to further test it, remove it from the car, and measure the resistance from either pin of its connector to the body/threaded part right after putting it in a cup of near boiling water (200F or so). both pins should read about the same relative to the body/ground (one pin goes to the ICU, one to the ECU, but they are two separate temp sensitive resistors, aka thermisters).

wiring issues are more frequently a problem than the sensor itself.

 

You didn't speak to a tech, you spoke to a salesman whose job is to sell. There is no way a Coolant Sensor will make that engine stall!

 

Thanks Lev, however the salesman put me on hold while he talked to a tech(or so he claimed).

In the post directly before your last post I have been given instructions on how to check the CST. So if I understand you correctly, you are saying don't even bother, correct?

Thanks

 

I wouldn't test it.

 

Have swapped the following parts from my 92 into my 93 without any change in the stalling issue:

AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.

Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.

It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is at. Stalled the other day when it was full.

Any ideas would be appreciated?

 

are both those cars LH2.4 or both LH3.1? many 92/93's were LH3.1 as I understand (but I don't see them here in California afaik).

LH 2.4 uses a -016 AMM/MAF with a 5 pin connector, while LH 3.1 uses a -001 that has 4 pins.

I've heard CPS sensors are prone to heat soak problems. The CPS (Crank Position Sensor) is between the back of the engine and the transmission bell, on top of the bell, just behind the head on the intake side. its got a foot long wire with a 3 pin connector. I've never had one fail, but seen a lot of reports of them failing here and on the swedish brick email list. When the CPS fails, you get no spark, no gas.

 

Both AMM have identical part numbers, so not worried about possibly incorrect swap.

Will check CPS and report back, thanks

I was thinking of throwing a new Bosch fuel pressure regulator at it-any thoughts?

 

is the vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator wet with fuel?


I forget, did we confirm the in-tank pump was working? I read the reason they put the in-tank pump in the cars in the first place was to prevent vaporlock in the main pump (this was a feature in 1982 or 83, I think).

 

I will check the vacuum port and in-tank pump and report back.

Thanks

 

Head Gasket to me....


Take out the THERMOSTAT.....so you will be overcooling...see if that helps....

 

hmmm, I thought most head gasket failures caused one or more of...

• coolant in oil
• oil in coolant
• exhaust in coolant
• coolant leakage outside head
• nasty noises and really rough running

and not outright stalls without other symptoms?

 

Yes, I would agree.

 

I went by a repair manual's GENERIC answers to: stalls while driving...

but you guys are probably right....hell, I should know, I got Chocolate milk not so long ago...well, the cylinder was decomposing and not the gasket...