So it's time to change the timing belt. I've never done this before, so it should be a great learning experience. I've read the summary on changing the belt about 20 times now, and have the timing belt, the front engine seals, water pump, tensioner, ac belt and the alternator belt in my cart at FCPgroton as we speak.

Here's my question for the community, do you have any routine maintenance that you do or tips that you have found valuable when changing the timing belt? I think I'll give the "rope trick" a try as it sounds logical, many have had success using it, and it's cheap.

Also, since I am purchasing enough from fcp to get free shipping, is there anything else on a 20 year old volvo that could use replacing? Especially anything that I'll have access to while changing the timing belt?

Hopefully I can get enough input on the subject to compile all the info and create a "canned" response for people with the same questions in the future.

Thanks a million.

 

You might consider motor mounts. I did not use aftermarket parts for this. It is not a bad job. Try lifting the engine with engine hoist bracket instead of using a jack on the engine itself. I followed a guys lead over on Brickboard, it worked well.

http://volvo2.homestead.com/index.html

 

I just did the same thing to my car last week. I went ahead and changed the Water pump. That would be one of the best things to change since your already there. I also changed all the belts, hoses, and some seals.

Those would be my only suggestion....Cheers!!!

 

Be very careful not to over tighten the hardware that mounts the waterpump to the block.

 

If your belly pan is in place, check to make sure all the bolts are there to hold it up. Cheap to by a few extras if you need them. Remove the radiator and pressure wash it to get all the crap out that collects. You can also take the garden hose to the radiator for the ac. Soak all the nuts, bolts and such with PB Blaster (my favorite) to make the job easier. Pick up some gasket softener/remover and some single sided razor blades because the water pump gasket material can really stick to the block. I'm dealing with that now. How old is the thermostat? Might be a good time to change that out. Remove and clean out the overflow tank.

 

Zloetakoe - I have a clone to your car. Mine is a 89 245, white in color with a blue vinyl interior. I purchased a matching arm rest 20 years ago. It works great. If you need a picture send me your e mail address and I will take a picture and send it to you.

I took my belly pan off years ago because the plastic tabs were breaking off. I still have it and would like to put it back on. Has anyone tried to plastic weld the tabs back on. Any other idea's???

Don
dschmidt15@sbcglobal.net

 

Hi Magic. Do you mean the flat area at the front of the pan that slides into the slots of the car? All the other holes are not on tabs they are drilled through flat spots of the pan. Here's what I would do. I've had good luck reinforcing and repairing tricky plastics like that (tricky because it's an outdoor piece, is somewhat weight bearing, flat and is along a horizontal plane. Combine the epoxy with duct tape. Don't laugh, hear me out. This process will take a few steps. And you'll need, duct tape (black to match the pan), flat wooden tool to apply epoxy (I just grab old paint stirring sticks and split and cut them with a razor blade to varying widths and lengths), time.

1. Clean the entire pan front and back. Finish up with soap and water and dry it. You don't need anything fancy here. Dish washing detergent is a GREAT grease cutter so some of that in a bucket of water will do the trick.
2. Make sure you can get the area of repair to get flat and that you see how to position them. It doesn't matter if they won't stay in place, just get the visual on how they need to be positioned. You'll see why in a minute.
3. Now the fun begins. Tear off a piece of duct tape that's about 2 inches larger than the repair area. Put that in a handy place because you'll need to retrieve it shortly.
4. Mix up a generous amount of epoxy per the instructions on the package. I'd say 1/4 of a tube.
5. When it's mixed put some on the spot to be repaired and position the broken tab as it needs to be (see step 2). Now (ON ONE SIDE ONLY) slather a generous amount of epoxy around the area to be repaired about 2 inches around. Don't be shy.
6. Now grab that duct tape and place it over the area you just covered with epoxy and gently press it into place with one of those flat wooden tools you just made from splitty the paint stick. It'll be a little slimey but don't worry about that. Just press it in flat. Doesn't have to be perfect. This'll be under the car remember. Ideally the epoxy will soak through the tape. That's a good thing. Use a small flat piece of wood to gently but firmly press and mold the tape in place.
7. You should have some epoxy left. While this is still wet, gently slather more epoxy on top of the tape. Just smooth it over the tape and make sure to go over all the edges of the tape.
8. Set it aside and let it dry.
9. After it's dry flip the pan over and do the same thing on the other side.
10. When that's dry, you're going to have a very tough but flexible repair. The epoxy is reinforced by the duct tape. Odds are you could use any kind of fabric. I intend to experiment at some point. However, I know the duct tape works.

You can't paint this repair, so use black duct tape to blend into the pan. This also works GREAT to reinforce door pockets, plastic parking brake cover and the rear seat belt covers. When it drys it remains flexible but the damn things won't want to break. When you do it ONLY perform this from the INSIDE (when doing interior reinforcement of parts) of the part. It's ugly when it's all done and like I said, it doesn't hold paint at all. 2 years ago I repaired my map pockets this way. I really beat the crap out of them and wow they still look great. Last summer I repaired a parking break cover and my rear seat belt covers that were sun baked and thin. They're all tough as nails now and still have a factory appearance.

I haven't done this on something as weight bearing as a belly pan but I'm thinking it's a good application. Do 2 layers if want to be safe but remember the tape will add thickness and may be a pain in the butt to then get into the slots. I'd just do one layer and see how it holds up.

 

I am at the same stage. I need to replace the water pump secondary to leak and tempted to replace the timing belt at the same time. I have never done this procedure before. Where can I find the summary of changing timing belt?. Please share with us how changelling it is.

Thanks in advance

 

Go to this guy's site, http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/ . On the left side you'll see "A step by step guide to changing the timing belt ....". When you click on that it takes you to a page where you can download his instructions. The download is FREE! He ASKS, read it again ASKS if you would please send him $6.00 for the instructions if you find them useful. These are the best instructions I've ever seen for getting the job done. Follow it step by step and you'll succeed. When you're done please mail this cat $6.00. You gotta love his approach. Read it all the way through though. He has an older 240 and his crank is held on differently than newer models. Also, I used a pulley removing tool to get pull off the crank pulley after getting the bolt off. Add that to the list of tools. NEXT, in addition to his ALSO download this http://threefattigers.com/Protocore/...imingMarks.htm . It's critical that you get the timing marks right. That link there is a blow up of where they are and how to set them. Print off both sets of documents and you'll nail this the very first time and you'll wonder what all the fuss is about.

IMPORTANT: I use that Volvo tool that locks the crank pulley in place to get that bolt off. I love it. I've heard of many techniques for getting it off and I have not tried them. If the others are easier, so be it. What I do know is that this tool works. IPD doesn't have it on their web site anymore! That's where I got mine. Give them a call 800-444-6473 and see if they can give you the part number and proper name so you can Google it and find another source.

 

Thanks Stogeyman, I will check them out once I get off from work.

 

Thanks stogeyman I will try you belly pan repair method.

Don

 

You're welcome. I hope it works for you. Let me know how it goes.

 

Hey I came across the crank holding tool! http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartD...spx?id=9995284