Ok guys and gals.... I am going to change out my head gasket this weekend... I dont have a book on the volvo so I dont have the torque specs i need. I have purchased a complete gasket kit so i should be able to have a good seal on all related components when i am through.

If i could get the torque specs on the following items it would be much appreciated:

Head bolts

Exhaust manifold

Intake manifold

I suppose i should note that I have a 1985 740 turbo 2.3L

 

B230ET engine?

Head bolts tighten in 3 stages:

Stage 1 15lb/ft 20nm
Stage 2 44lb/ft 60nm
Stage 3 Tighten further 90 degrees.

Haynes manual does not specify a setting for either the inlet or exhaust manifold but my friendly Volvo man reckons 18lb/ft 25nm.

Do you know the loosening and tightening sequences for the head bolts?

 

just wrench the exaust and intakes down. Regarding specs for the head bolts...You go through two torque procedures: 15 lbs-ft; and 45 lbs-ft; then turn the bolt the final 90 degrees of angle [AKA 1/4 turn] to achieve the final clamp pressure. There is a specific pattern to follow that is availible at this thread on turbo bricks.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...0+torque+specs

There's alot of gobledy gook about re-tightening bolts and how much of a bad idea it is and then the pattern as a jpeg incert. Good luck

It doesn't matter how you take the bolts off...though for good measure you could use the tightening pattern and revearse it...just be sure they don't cross thread on the way out and to make sure the engine is cold.

 

both Haynes and Chilton need to beef up their manuals in my oppinion....

 

Wow......how'd i completely miss billofdurham's post? Glad to reiterate yall!

 

Nice to know both sides of the pond agree.

With regard to re-tightening the bolts after running the engine for some time I am guided by my friendly Volvo man (20 years experience) who insists it is not necessary with a Volvo engine.

When putting the bolts in he recommends a drop of engine oil on each one.

 

LOL...indeed.

I was always under the impression that you stand to cross thread and/or strip out the bore for the engine bolts if your re-tighten them. I figure if you have a loose head bolt your engine is trying to tell you something....."replace the bolt, and while your down there why not replace the gasket too!"

 

Thanks guys I will check the link out just before I tear into the work. This is my first attempt of replacing a head gasket but Im sure I can get it done. I have never been afraid to dive in head first into a project like this. Again you guys are awesome!

 

I think the TransAtlantic interpreter is not working properly. I agree with what you say and would never advise anyone to retighten a bolt that had worked loose. However, I was referring to 'days gone by' when it was necessary to torque down the head about 500 miles after replacing the gasket - perhaps nobody else is old enough to remember the good old days when cars were designed to be repaired by the owner without throwing lots of cash at the dealers.

Oh sweet nostalgia!!

Anyhow, XL883L, good luck on your first head gasket change. It's easy to do if you take your time. Let us know how it goes.

 

LOL...nope, that's well before my tinkering time. But, in an atempt to relate....My Brother-in-law just informed me that the oil in his Nissan Pathfinder gets changed every 10,000 miles. Where's the fun in that?

 

That is the oil change interval on UK Volvos.

My first ever car had an oil change every 3,000 miles.

I have heard that some of the latest cars in the UK have a service interval of 20,000 miles. Now that does cut down on the fun!


Bill.

 

.....i once let my 240 go 14,000 miles before i had the oil changed. Kept taking it to the shop in town and the guy kept saying "nah, yer oil's fine!"