Hello Forum Friends
I have just acquired a 1988 Volvo 240DL from my brother.I am having a major problem with it bogging down on acceleration.I checked the plugs,they were fairly clean,I checked the #4 fuse holder,that was fine.I jumped the 4 and 6 fuses and heard both fuel pumps run.When I try and give it gas it spits and sputters and bogs down to the point of it cutting off.I am totally baffled by this.What if there is water in the fuel tank?Any way to get it out or dissipate it.Could the cat converter be clogged?I sure could use some input.

Thanks Much
Bob

 

I would replace the fuel filter first, depending on how old it is.

 

Bogging on acceleration is usually very rich on fuel. You will know if you ever pick water up in the fuel, the car misfires and won't run well at ANY rpm.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Progress report for my malady.Went and bought a fuel filter and spark plugs as well as a bottle of heat.Went to put on the fuel filter and the brass fittings on either end are kind of rusted.I was afraid to put too much torque trying to loosen them.I was afraid I would break the tube that runs between the fuel pump and the filter.I PB blastered it,and will try again tomorrow.Put the heat in the fuel tank and changed the spark plugs.Cranked her up and the same issue.If you push the pedal down 1/4" it runs fine but if you push it down 1/2" it bogs out until you let off a bit.There was one occasion when I parked it with nose running down hill,then I cranked it and drove around the block,and it ran perfect.I let it sit for an hour,on the flat driveway and went to test drive again and it was back. Any more suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks Again

 

i would try and locate the plug on the MAF sensor on the air intake line, unplug it, see if it runs. if it runs better than it is surely your MAF sensor, and a can of MAF sensor cleaner (only use this) should fix it.

 

sorry I am new to these cars where exactly is that located?

 

DOn't worry about those brass fittings, you won't break them! As for teh small fuel line, don't worry about damaging that, if you do, simply cut it off teh hose barbs and replace with two hose clamps and some fuel injection line.
Those fittings are usually VERY tight from teh factory, I had to remove teh fuel pump cadle completely from teh car to do teh job on my car.

Regards, Andrew.

 

The line to be careful with goes from the filter to the engine - dealer only item.

I had the same exact experience as Typhoon when replacing my fuel pump.

 

hey all this stuff is a waste of time that they're suggesting. Go in your trunk and pull the in tank fuel pump and replace the rubber piece between the pump and the pick up tube. While you are in there replace the intank fuel pump, even if its still working it will poop the bed shortly after this point.

I'll make the walbro pump suggestion again here but people never listen.

 

I'll listen and second your motion Walbro makes great!!! pumps. Used them for diesel fuel on my boat to feed the furnace and the engine for thousands of hours and I would buy one before any other. I hope they're still made in the USA.

Also...Heat will not melt ice that has already formed in your fuel delivery system. Find a warm garage and tuck it in for a night if you think it's frozen. (been there, and had to do that)

 

The walbro pump swap goes as this.

Go buy a walbro GSS340,341, or 342 (from these guys cus the ebay ones might not be real walbros http://apeusa.com/) the internals are all the same just with different inlets on them . Also get an install kit for a mustang, I found that was pretty easy.

Then do this, it's from Volvoluvin on turbobricks I didn't feel like writing it all up.

1. Remove Intank pump assembly - Easily accessed by unscrewing two screws infront of the 3rd seat and lifting up the wood. Made easier by folding the rear seats down.
2. Drop Fuel pump and filter cage down and disconnect fuel lines - Much mess ensue's...
3. Remove old fuel pump from cage and ceremoniously chuck as far as you can
4. Keep cage and old fuel filter/fittings, still used.
5. Source out a reducer if you do not intend on welding new AN fittings to the intank pump. See picture and specs of reducer below. This is required to go from the 1/2'' inch hose at the intank to the 5/16'' inch hose at the fuel filter. (Normally not a problem as the Volvo fuel pump has 1/2'' on one end and 5/16'' on the other).
for steps 6-12 see pic below
6. Focus back on the intank pump by removing it and ceremoniously chucking as far as you can, but not before cutting the Brown and Black wires as close to the pump as possible
7. Cut the Walbro wiring harness as far away from the pump connection as possible.
8. Find some sexy butt connectors and connect the Brown wire of the intank pump to the black wire of the Walbro, and the Black intank wire to the Red of the Walbro
9. Cut 1/2'' from the pick up tube - This will allow you enough room to line up the Walbro with the bottom of the return line, and use a piece of 5/16'' hose to connect. The Walbro is about a 1/2'' taller than the stock pump.
10. Cut the plastic bracket so you can open it, as the Walbro is marginally larger than stock.
11. Source a piece of rubber to shim in between the pump and bracket. (I don't think this is necessary given I used a 2" hose clamp as well, but it add's to the grip).
12. Use a 2'' hose clamp to hold the Walbro in place.
13. Put intank back in. From here, if you can source out some 1/2 inch EFI hose, (about 4 feet), do it, and attach to intank, and put the reducer down by the filter. For my installation, I couldn't find enough, so I placed a very small piece, 3'', to connect the intank 1/2'' to the reducer 1/2'', and made the reducer live up by the intank.
14. Attach 5/16'' EFI hose to 5/16'' reducer end and feed through stock locations to the filter.
15. Attach to filter, and re-attach other fuel filter connections.
16. Put Filter bracket and brace back in place.
17. BEFORE closing up the access to the intank etc...start car and check for leaks. If no leaks, proceed to step 18, if leaks...go backwards from here...
18. Close everything back up and enjoy your new constant fuel delivery!

It was a very simple process thanks to Ken's guidence and input, and is well worth the cost. I think all in was $200cdn, ($170 for pump and $30 for hose and bits).
Hope someone finds this useful.





I did basically exactly that except i extended the wiring from the main pump to the tank because the main pump wires see a little more electric that the in tank pump wires that are all ready in the trunk.

 

also I've heard that you can leave the main pump in and just leave it unhooked. As long as its not locked up it will just flow through.