I have owned a 1987 240 DL Wagon for three years, and have loved it. It has approximately 280,000 miles, but the engine is strong and it starts consistently even when it has been sitting for several weeks.

Because it has recently failed inspection and the mechanic estimates the cost at $900 to $1000 to fix the problems, I do not know what to do with the car.

The transmission shifts a little rough and there is no working AC.

The lack of AC did not bother me in the past. However, because I am planning to start a job that will require me to drive to work, the lack of working AC now makes the car less than ideal for my driving needs.
Should I sell the car "as is" (which is what I have been trying to do through craigslist without much success), should I sell it for parts (the engine is great), or should I invest the money to fix the car and then try to sell and recoup the investment?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, I would appreciate any advice about how I could best market the car?

I am in Charlottesville, Virginia, which has a lot of older Volvos on the streets. There seems to be a large community of Volvo lovers here.

 

Welcome.

Depending on what needs to be fixed, I would just fix it. But since you need AC and a better trans...you caould probably get more money out from parting it out, but that will also take time.I'dsell it, which is probably the easiest way to go, and you can always buy a new own for close to nothing .

 

If I was not a Volvo enthusiast I would get rid of the car at the point when safety or excessive emissions became an issue. By that I mean if it costs more to repair than the car is worth.

But I am a Volvo enthusiast. But not all Volvos; just mine. So I would pay whatever it takes to keep it like new.

Tough to answer for someone else.

Getting your money back on repairs usually doesn't work so good unless repair costs are cheap and the body is in excellent condition. In your case it sounds like the best bet would be to drop the price and sell it as is.

 

Glad my ’75 is old enough to be exempt from inspections and emissions in this state. I’m not giving it up until the gearbox falls out. But then again, I never have any money so I’m not sure what I’ll do if something breaks that’s beyond the limits of my skills.

 

What exactly is wrong with it for $1,000? And how much are you trying to get for it?

 

You never mentioned why it failed the inspection. Blown bulb or something more serious? Even at 22 years old, Im sure it has less rust than anything up here (Upstate NY) It you ebayed it or Autotrader.com, I'm sure you could find a nice northern buyer who would travel to pick it up. I bought my 89 DL wagon from a guy in Roanoke. Car has no rust- unusual to see up here. ps my 89 with 200k I paid 1100$ for. Dave

 

I have heard great things about the 200/700 series cars...Some say they never rust.

 

Yeah, right. They might be heavier, but bring it to the salt belt, and they rust like everything else. BYW- up here many folks dont even have AC in their cars or homes. Mine 240 has AC- dosent work- but thats OK, wouldnt use it that many days anyway. Dave

 

Dave, I am looking at a 89 240 wagon down in NC. I live in MA where the roads are also perfusely salted, but what measures do you take to prevent rust?

I have read that if you wash it weekly for the winter months, it could help. But also I have heard of a service (Volvo used to do it back in the day ~ 80's, 90's) where they spray the bottom of the car with a sealent. I cant find any services but I have heard of it.

Also is rust a gradual thing, or would the car rust right away after driving on the road for one day?

Thanks,
Conrad

 

I thought these cars have galvanized steel....they shouldn't rust.
I must be thinking of a different modelthen...

 

No, I am sure these cars rust.

Do you know about what year Volvo started making cars that do not rust, either with galvanized steel or plastic under carriges?

 

Not sure. I didn't really follow up with that.
Dave can probably tell you.

 

All metal rusts, some cars are better than others. Later models cars are better protected, but they ALL rust if exposed to salt and especially if there isa spot where the bare metal is exposed such as a scratch.
Volvos are undercoated from the factory, and no additional undercoating is recommended. No, they never made PLASTIC undercarriages, and contrary to popular beliefs Volvos are not "heavy"in actual weight-they just "feel" that way because they are solidly built...

 

i have a 240 from 91 that im parting out its not going well and my engine only has 246k if it only costs a grand id fix it cause its hard to find buyers. whats wrong with the AC

 

Well I'm no expert on rust, If I keep the car for the next ten years (up here) I imagine it will just rust- I'm just prepared to accept that. With 210k on the clock I figure 10 years is a prayer. Only paid 1100 anyway. I've heard that about the galvanised steel, but looked at a 740 to buy (in Ohio) that had such bad rust on the main front to back structural section, I figured it could be unsafe and I passed. I've had Ziebart applied to our old Mercedes 240 after bringing it up here from Georgia. The stuff flaked off within a few years. The way I look at it, I'm just gonna drive it untill it rust out then go back to Virginia and buy something else. I've just got a head start on it. Dave

 

Actually my car feels fairly light compared to a camaro (~3400)or BMW 5series (~3800, or even the new volvos (~3850).
My car weighs ~3100 with me in the car.

 

Dave, I like that thought, and thats what others have been telling me to do. I found an 89 wagon in NC for only 1500, with no rust. Hoping to keep it for at least eight years or so, and then buy another non-rusted.

I know some may build a point, "you Northeners are just killing our cars as you buy them up and let them rust!" Well honestly, I think there is still a plentiful population of the 240 series and they will last probably another 50 years before they start becoming rare.

Conrad

 

Thank you all for your advice. I am sorry that I am so late responding. I just realized that I had responses to my post.

The problems noted by the mechanic were the following: 1)hazy headlight lenses 2) left rear tailight assemby needed (broken lense and connection problem causing brake light to flicker on and off) 3) need new lugs and studs on right front wheel (all five) 4) work needed on front brakes (not quite clear as to what is needed, here, as it appears to brake fine 5) four rust spots (??holes)on driver floor pan and 5) needs a new muffler.

I have received an offer to purchase the car for $500. I am considering that offer and have set up an appointment to have the 240 inspected at a shopthat specialized in Volvos on Monday, in the interest of further clarifying what needs to be done.

Thanks, again, to all of you.

Kind regards.

 

#5 is the bad one... The rest are minor.

 

tedtv,

Thanks for your advice (and also re: the 740).