Okay, I was finally able to buy the cleanest little '83 240 sedan I've ever seen due to the original owners misfortune. He left it sit a few months as usual while he was off on his boat somewhere and this time it wouldn't start/battery was dead. He had it towed to the local garage where they diagnosed it as wiring issues and quoted some outrageous price. He decided to sell and of course I was there in no time and bought it.

I had it towed here and started by checking the fuel pumps and they ran when jumped at the main fuse #5 & #7 terminals as well as when jumped at the relay but it still would start, just cranked. Then when I tried opening the hood [unsuccessfully] a whurring sound started and was getting louder coming from under the hood until it was as loud as an emergency siren. I pushed the hood down and it stopped. I thought it was a bad heater/blower motor at first. So, I get to looking around a little and found a wierd looking contraption to the left of the steering column secured under the dash that had a barrel key [like a vending machine] type lock. It read Chapman "Insurance Man". I did a little research and it was an old/period correct style anti-theft device. It was apparently the deluxe system having the hood lock, motion detection, siren and ignition switch cut off features.

I read online [very little info] that the key was obsolete and the only way to remove it was to drill out the lock as any keys were obsolete. So, I spent an hour starting with a small bit until I got all the way through and the inards popped out revealing a hood latch like cable and a single brown wire. I was finally able to open yhe hood now. This cable and wire were inside a metal tube going to and just through the firewall then the cable to a seperate hood locking mechanism and the wire to a siren type speaker/alarm. I removed the hood lock cable and tube completely then I removed the wire to and the alarm/siren. There was a black wire also from the alarm/siren to the ignition coil. I've removed it all but there are some extra things on the firewall I'm sure went to/from the alarm in some capacity including a 25 amp inline fuse.

I told you that to tell you this............. It still won't start

Any ideas? I have not checked spark yet but I'll bet it has none due to a lock out of some kind relating to this alarm.

It got late and I had a busy evening so that's as far as I got. I'm sure this is why the car wouldn't start.

I can/will take and post photos of the car. I swear it's the cleanest, most original and excellent condition, maybe the lowest mileage ~90k~ 240 I've ever seen! I've been after it quite a while now

 

Me thinks you'll need to go through all the wiring that originates at that alarm thingie, and trace it back to the car's harness, and compare with the greenbook wiring diagram.

easiest way to disable a redblock from starting would be to disable the fuel pump relay, or disable the ignition controller somehow.


this car, which engine does it have? B23F ? B21F ? is it CIS-E aka K-Jetronic, or is it EIS aka LH Jetronic ? K-Jet has mechanical injection with a fuel distributor, while LH has electronic controlled injectors.

 

Thanks! I agree and I'll have to get back with you on those questions because I forgot the keys when I went up to where the car is but I did remember my camera It's supposed to rain all weekend so I likely won't get much accomplished.

The pictures don't really don't do it justice, it's clean as a whistle and original.

 

Wow! What a beauty! Congrats!

 

Well I just wrote a book then "poof" when I hit post so...............

 

indeed. I haven't seen a set of the stock steel wheels that clean and shiny in quite a long time. that car looks /new/, like it lived in a air conditioned and clean garage for 30 years.

I do believe I would leave that car -totally- stock exterior, except maybe get some euro headlights, if you can, and if your state isn't all aggro on non-DOT headlights. chrome rimmed side windows (later ones were blacked).

its the little things, like the older style smaller tail lights (later years got larger tail lights with another set of panels), and the small trunk lock (later years got a larger trunk lock). old style mud flaps (later ones were molded plastic instead of rubber flaps, adn they didn't have the white VOLVO on the backs).

here's an early 240 with euro headlights for reference...


(from a random google)

 

I hate when that happens.

 

sicnarf: Thanks

pierce: It stopped raining so I went up to spend a little time on it yesterday.

First, it's a B23F w/ LH Jetronic injection.

I figured I'd start with cleaning up all the fuses so I did that and replaced the 25A fuse on the fender well because it was ancient looking but appreaed good. All the "Insurance Man" anti-theft is gone and only 1 white wire remains which comes out of the juntion box right next to that 25A fuse that I believe powered the siren. I believe it was a pigtail that was installed when the alarm was. I see nothing else that would kill the ignition.

Still just cranked so I pulled the dizzy cap and the rotor is turning so the timing belt is good. There's good spark too so I think I can rule out the ignition. I jumped the fuel pump relay and I can clearly hear the under car pump but it's hard to confirm if the in tank pump is running. I noticed it's just under a 1/2 tank so I wonder if the in tank fuel pump hose might have ruptured, fell off or ?

I'll get back up there with some starting fluid in hand whenever this rain stops and confirm or deny if it's a fuel issue.

rspi: I usually copy just in case but...... I wrote all the above to pierce then "poof"

 

pierce: Yeah, she sure is a purdy/clean old Volvo I wish it was a wagon though

To icing the cake........ he just had $400 worth of tires installed, new front struts, brakes and some exhaust work done in the last year. Except for some dash cracks it really is in exc condition. I think his metallis looking windshield sunshade thingy made the dash even hotter and cracked it up [back of the cluster area], even the cluster front clear plastic cracked.

I agree, all original is best.

 

Fantastico...!

 

Okay, I got up there tlast evening and messed around a little. First, I took some starting fluid and used a length of tubing down through the hose [removed] in the intake plastic to get get it closer to where it would be most effective.

I sprayed a good 2-3 second shot, removed my hose and cranked it over. It started for about a second with the throttle slightly down.

So, I then thought I'd try listening for the intank pump again by jumping the relay but now there was no power there [tried several times]??? I did get them powered up [still can only hear the main pump] by jumping #5 & #7 fuses at the fuse block.

Grrrr ~ why can't I jump it now at the relay? It worked there before the siren/alarm removal.

I poked around and discovered the brown wire at the coil looked either decayed or overheated with bare wires showing, as well as the gray wiring connector at the center of the firewall, 1 side looked the same way.

I've removed both and will rewire through the connector or redesign it using what's available.

Who knows?????????? but it did start so it seems there's either a wiring issue involving the ignition and/or pumps.

 

Okay, with Easter and relatives gone I got back to the Volvo yesterday. The one red wire leading to the under hood 25A fuse was pulled off it's connection when I was messing around with that alarm/siren in the area. Now I had power at the pumps with either #5 & #7 fuses jumped or when jumping the relay. I also redid the wiring in question [deteriorated coating].

I pulled the in tank pump yesterday to take a look. The rubber accordion style connector between the fuel pick up tube and the fuel pump looked rough although no visible rip until after I got it off and I may have ripped it doing so?? It had no strength to it and may have actually sucked shut??

Anywho, I've done this in tank job 3 times so I figured by the looks of it, the strainer, etc... a new pump was in order. My sending unit is in exc condition so I just replaced the pump, submersed rubber hose and strainer sock and re-installed.

Still no start but it would idle/run all day on starting fluid. There's no port to check fuel pressure.......

After trying several things I went into test mode again ~ I get NO PUMPS COMING ON when turning the ignition key on and nothing while cranking either, ONLY when jumped??????????

Will not start with fuel pumps jumped at fuse block either????????????

Ideas?

 

Also, my son [12] says when I had the pumps jumpered to run it sounded like the pumps shut down when I cranked the car and came back on when I stopped cranking??

 

1) fuel tank empty....Not your problem
2) Battery discharged
3) Battery terminals loose or corroded
4) Leaking fuel injector/s,faulty pump, pressure regulator
5) Fuel not reaching fuel injection system
6) Ignition components damp or damaged
7) worn or faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
8) Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in starting circuit
9) Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
10) Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil.
I LEAN ON NUMBERS
5, 8, 9, 10
does your cluster come on and show fuel and temp readings?
if it is fried It might not turn on....but haven only heard of this problem once or twice

 

if its runnign on starter fluid, that pretty much eliminates the ignition system and starter circuit.

if I remember, I'll revisit this later with the wiring diagram, and rattle off the connections bewtween the battery and the fuel pump relay and fuel pumps. you can check for the correct voltages at various places and try and isolate whats going on.

re: measuring fuel pressure, you disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail, and a volvo compatible fuel pressure gauge has a t-fitting that goes on the end of the the fuel rail, between it and the incoming fuel hose from the pump.

 

Thanks! Yes, it's fuel not ignition.

I removed that fuel line at the rail and I'm not getting much fuel although I don't have a gauge. I guess before you get to involved with research, I need to get under the car and check out the main pump, filter and harness. It sounds okay now with the new in tank pump but ? I just don't get why the pumps aren't coming on with the key and/or they go off when cranking [if they really do ~ I can't tell]. You'd think if I run them with a jumper it would at least try to start if the rail was pressurized??????????

I see a for sale sign a comin

 

early LH systems didn't prime the pump on key-on, the engine had to turn over before the pump started. starting around lH2.4, they would run the pump about 1 second at key on to prime the system. my daughter's 87 240 with LH 2.2 doesn't pre-run the pumps, but my 1992 740 with LH2.4 does.

if you're not seeing a gusher of fuel coming out of the open fuel line when you manually power the pump, then something is seriously clogged. I'd be looking at that fuel filter next, I think? or, disconnect the line betwen the tank and main pump, power the tank pump, does fuel come out in a reasonable stream? if so, hook that back up, disconnect the line between the fuel filter and main pump, repeat. SOMETHING is clogged.

of course, exercise all sorts of caution around open gasoline sources, avoid any sparks, do this in a well ventilated area, have a fire extinguisher rated "B" class (liquid fires) handy , etc etc.

 

Thanks Pierce.

I swear I don't hear the pumps running when cranking but it does need a motor mount so it shakes pretty good. I will get under there, get my test light out and check for a kinked fuel line, clog, etc... and see if I can figure something out. I remembered that some had the "key on" prime [my '89 740 turbo wagon did] but I forgot the year break and this car looks so nice I often say it's a '93 [like when ordering the fuel pump] rather than '83. The fuel is stale/stinks but it's still usable because I ran some through my lawn mower

Update coming soon...........

 

you could clip lead a 12v test light between fuse 4 and ground, it should come on when the pumps are actually powered.

do be aware, the later 240's have a LOT of internal part differences. from 1989 forward, they are LH2.4 injection, while you have, I believe, LH II (probably 2.1) on your 83. the fuel pumps are compatible but a lot of other stuff isn't... different MAF, different ECUs, etc etc.

 

Rain, rain go away................ I guess it will be the weekend before I get to really get into this fuel issue.

Yeah Pierce, I did have them double check after I realized I made a mistake ['93 versus '83] and the pump is correct. I have limited info on this car except for the last shop that touched it and receipts/what the original owner told me. It kind of a pig in a poke without definite or accurate account of events leading up to this issue.

Thanks