Ok so here's the run down. I have a 1990 Volvo 760 with the 2.3l turbo b230ft. A few weeks ago me and my girl friend went to the store and the car was running great. When we came back out the car wouldn't start. It turns over fine but will not start up.

Here's what I've done so far:
I originally thought the issue was the in tank fuel pump so I changed it out for a brand new one along with a filter for it. That did't solve the problem and the car still wont start.

I then replaced the spark plugs and wires and then I went under that car to look at the fuel pump and filter. Under there and discovered a damaged power wire going to the pump. I fixed the wire and also replaced the fuel filter under there. Now I got the car to start and idle really rough but then dies. I started the car again and gave it some gas. It seemed to run better, although still not good, at higher RPM but a little bit of smoke came out the tail pipe and the car ended up dieing after about a minute at higher rpm.

I have no idea what's going on with the car now. Any ideas? Could it be the fuel pump under the car? I don't want to replace it if I don't need to because they are kind of expensive.

Sorry that's so long but PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!

 

I have a few of these 1990 760s.

Can you unscrew the fuel line at the fuel rail and put the line into a jar and turn on the key, listen for the fuel pump hum, and see if you have fuel squirting into the jar? This is what I have done in the past to verify fuel delivery.

Another thing happened to me is that the foam in the air filter box was old and breaking free and totally clogged the air mass meter so that there was no air flow. After clearing all that, it started and ran fine.

 

I actually replaced the AMM just a few weeks ago so it's not that. Ill take a look at the fuel rail tho. thanks

 

Pull codes before you get led down a garden path chasing what someone else had a problem with. These engines are known for having a no start induced by a crank angle sensor, foe example, but I'm not going to just go straight to that as I don't know anything about the car.
So pull the codes and let's see what they have to say.

 

wasnt giving me a code at all until now. code is postion 6 1-4-4
its "Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module". How do I fix/test for that?
Sorry I'm a volvo noob

 

I am having the same issue as we speak, someone please help!

 

Ok so I put in a new Crank speed sensor today. The car started up once but ran super rough and when I depressed the gas pedal it started to die. I also ordered a new fuel injection relay that should be here tomorrow hopefully. Once I get that in I'll give it another try and keep you posted. Btw the car is still giving the DTC 1-4-1 in position 6.

 

Ok so today 7/18/2011 I replaced the fuel injection relay. No change at all in what the car is doing. The car started up after a few tries and idled super rough for about 20 seconds before dieing. If you give the car gas it still runs really rough and seems like its going to stall.

Any ideas would be awesome

 

I got a suggestion it may have something to do with the ecu so I took some pics. There were 2 "loose" wires. I dont know where they go if anywhere. I have a pic of the ecu too. Do I need to replace the ecu. Also to help with the "loose" wire placement I have a list of empty pins on the ecu connector.
Empty pins: 3, 10, 11, 16 , 23, 26, 27 and 31 are all empty. Not sure if they are supposed to be or not.











Would be SO AWESOME to actually have a working car

 

Forgot to say the ECU isn't putting out any DTC codes now. But still won't start obviously

 

Sorry to hear that your is not running well now. I replaced the crankk speed sensor. The car runs great now over 1000 rpm, then dies if the car drops below that. When the car starts it runs for about 30 seconds to a minute then dies, if I rev the car up over 1000 rpm it will stay running. I have done everything Beranimus has done accept change the fuel pump relay. it checked out fine. there are no more codes to follow now so I am in the dark on this one.

 

Someone said something to me about it maybe having something to do with the O2 sensor. Well the O2 sensor has been bad on the car since I got it so i know its bad but never effected anything other than mpg before. Could that have something to do with it or no?

 

I got the car running better now. I found a bent connection to the idle control valve and the PCV valve was caked with oil sludge, I made an oil catch can for in-between the EGR and the PCV valve to keep the intake and turbo clean. I fixed the electrical connection to the isle control valve and the car runs good now. it took some time to find everything but I think its done now.