1992 960 Rattling/Shaking on breaking (Tranny?)
#1
1992 960 Rattling/Shaking on breaking (Tranny?)
Hi guys!
I'm brand new here, posting from Vancouver, Canada.
I bought a 1992 Volvo 960 Sedan, private sale, 2nd owner, immaculate condition. Stamped Volvo records 92-00, about 100 pages worth of receipts for maintenance from 00-10.
209 thousand clicks (130 thousand miles)
Great car so far except for a bit (or massive??) of problem.
Once the car warms up - 30-40 minutes of trafficky driving, when breaking (to stop 30-0 km/h), the car starts rattling, slightly then growing into a more violent rattle (At this point I shift to N, then back to D; actually in the week I've owned the car - I've learned to detect the problem and switch to neutral almost instantly when I feel the shakes coming up)
It feels literally like the transmission doesn't know the car is stopping, so something of a pre-stall, like with a manual transmission when the clutch is still engaged when trying to stop. The oil light blinks - if I let it start rattling too much.
It's not the brakes - those need to be serviced @ 218 thousand km,
Engine oil, tranny oil, transaxle oil need to be changed a few thousand clicks later too (According to the stickers on the windshield from the previous owner)
The only thing which is overdue is the timing belt @ 204 thousand clicks - will do this weekend at a saturday mechanic. I know the timing belt is a gamble... it's only for another 3 days.
I will obviously talk to the mech about my problem, but I wanted to hear some input.
So what about my problem, does this sound like anything familiar any clues?
I've done some research, and the breaks are getting in the way with all the warped rotors - which don't apply to me, because the car stops perfectly when in neutral. And stops adequate in drive, when the rattling doesn't kick in.
I'm brand new here, posting from Vancouver, Canada.
I bought a 1992 Volvo 960 Sedan, private sale, 2nd owner, immaculate condition. Stamped Volvo records 92-00, about 100 pages worth of receipts for maintenance from 00-10.
209 thousand clicks (130 thousand miles)
Great car so far except for a bit (or massive??) of problem.
Once the car warms up - 30-40 minutes of trafficky driving, when breaking (to stop 30-0 km/h), the car starts rattling, slightly then growing into a more violent rattle (At this point I shift to N, then back to D; actually in the week I've owned the car - I've learned to detect the problem and switch to neutral almost instantly when I feel the shakes coming up)
It feels literally like the transmission doesn't know the car is stopping, so something of a pre-stall, like with a manual transmission when the clutch is still engaged when trying to stop. The oil light blinks - if I let it start rattling too much.
It's not the brakes - those need to be serviced @ 218 thousand km,
Engine oil, tranny oil, transaxle oil need to be changed a few thousand clicks later too (According to the stickers on the windshield from the previous owner)
The only thing which is overdue is the timing belt @ 204 thousand clicks - will do this weekend at a saturday mechanic. I know the timing belt is a gamble... it's only for another 3 days.
I will obviously talk to the mech about my problem, but I wanted to hear some input.
So what about my problem, does this sound like anything familiar any clues?
I've done some research, and the breaks are getting in the way with all the warped rotors - which don't apply to me, because the car stops perfectly when in neutral. And stops adequate in drive, when the rattling doesn't kick in.
Last edited by EllisB; 12-01-2010 at 10:15 PM.
#3
#4
Yes, I would first check the trans fluid as the poster recommends, it should be bright red, no acrid odors. If not, flush it, don't just drain the pan and replace with 3 quarts, do the real flush using about 13 quarts.
If that checks out ok, then I believe your lock up convertor is not unlocking when coming to a stop. Sometimes just flushing the fluid does the trick, if not then the solenoid is the culprit, which can be serviced by removing the oil pan on the trans. A very easy fix.
You can avoid the lock up of the convertor by driving in 3rd gear. Though your fuel mileage will suffer.
Keep us posted.
DanR '94 964 356,000 miles (122,000 on the new engine)
If that checks out ok, then I believe your lock up convertor is not unlocking when coming to a stop. Sometimes just flushing the fluid does the trick, if not then the solenoid is the culprit, which can be serviced by removing the oil pan on the trans. A very easy fix.
You can avoid the lock up of the convertor by driving in 3rd gear. Though your fuel mileage will suffer.
Keep us posted.
DanR '94 964 356,000 miles (122,000 on the new engine)
#5
Thanks for the replies,
Unfortunately I'm an IT tech living in a condo, so I cannot do much work on the car myself, but from the suggestions, and from reading the forum, once I go to the mechanic, I'll let him know to check the:
Tranny oil, TPS, PNP, S1 S2 SL,
Hopefully it will work out,
I'll keep you posted
I'm not unhappy with the issue, I hope it doesn't develop further, I'm willing to spend some money on it, since the price I paid is more than fair compared against the condition of the car. Even if I swap the tranny for a junkyard find, it's still worth it.
Purchase price was $1000 CAD and there isn't a single crack in the leather, nor a scratch on the paint.
Unfortunately I'm an IT tech living in a condo, so I cannot do much work on the car myself, but from the suggestions, and from reading the forum, once I go to the mechanic, I'll let him know to check the:
Tranny oil, TPS, PNP, S1 S2 SL,
Hopefully it will work out,
I'll keep you posted
I'm not unhappy with the issue, I hope it doesn't develop further, I'm willing to spend some money on it, since the price I paid is more than fair compared against the condition of the car. Even if I swap the tranny for a junkyard find, it's still worth it.
Purchase price was $1000 CAD and there isn't a single crack in the leather, nor a scratch on the paint.
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