I watched the vids again and tech is right. The exhaust sounds funny. After you check all that, I would seafoam it and see how it does. AlsoI would doan oil change (unless you did it or know it has been do).Did you check the compression? What was it (if you did)? That is how slow my car drove with a blown head gasket.
ButI would look at replacing that cat. http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/131
Or since you don't have emission, do a test pipe and be do with it.

 

Well, i will, and i will test pipe it. I unhooked the vacuum line, and it ran fast at half throttle, then detonated so i let off. Im gonna get the manual boost controller off my grand prix and try it. that damn thing isnt moving anyways. So after i get it hot, it still wont start back. And ether still kicks it over, and it runs again. Well i dont know, im outta ether. It acts like it is flooding out. Im not sure though. We changed the injectors because we thought it had a leaky one, and still nothing. No codes either. Its weird. Of course we played with different throttle positions. trying to rule out tps and the aic.

 

Maybe the ECT is bad and thats why it won't start hot.

 

ECT? Engine coolant temp sensor? Maybe, i thought of that. Ill see if it is expensive tomorrow. Open downpipe didnt do anything. So its not the cat. So if the ect would make it run slow... i dont know how, that could be it. If not, i bet the timing belt is off a tooth or i have a blown head gasket or other form of lost compression. I guess i will try and check the compression tomorrow, i havent got around to it yet, because the person that borrowed my tester was a douche and never brought it back. Well. I hope for the best on it. Im running out of things it could be.

 

Good luck. Post back your findings tomorrow.

 

The ECT might be bad making it run to rich.
Then after it gets hot the computer thinks it is cold and dumping way to much fuel hense the no start.

 

Compression is 120 in cylinders 2-4 and 118 in one. Sweetness. Not a hg. The plugs are white. I have to go with fuel pump now. Whats left? Would cam timing do that? I haven't checked it. I was thinking about trying those other diagnostic modes i found in alldata (i got free alldata from autozone... it rocks) The one that flips on all the sensors. I could check cam timing, but im fairly certain that wouldnt cause a lean condition. I did throw in some ngk bpr6es. Well, i need to do a pressure test, but cant find a place to stick the gauge.. ford and gm based vehicles have me spoiled.

 

Fuel pressure check, right? I would just put a T-fitting by the fuel rail andmount a permanent gauge there. I would check the fuel pumps and fuel lines/filtersalso. The compression sounds a little low (should be 130-150). Another thingyou cancheck isthe Values/shims gaps. I checked mine last month, andI was way out of spec. The gaps wereonly .001 - .008 in all eight, and they should be between .030 - .040 in all eightwhen cold (when hot,I think it should be between .035 - .040).My compreesion was ~120 in all four, butonce I did theValue/shim adjustment,it shot up back into spec, and runs A LOT better. Good luck.

 

To test the fuel pressure you need to make or find an adapter to hook inline with the fuel line between the line and rail.

 

The compression reading was off, the o ring was gone on my tester and i didnt notice it, does just a hair below 130 on all cylinders sound better? Alldata says 128

Edit- i am gonna make the big marker board, house style. Do you all watch house?

 

Yes I watch every episode that comes on!!!

If you can get ahold of a newer fuel rail late model like 92,93,94,95 it has a valve in the fuel rail to test pressure like a ford/gm.
Those compression numbers are fine.

 

Mine has a valve! but its cool, i think my cam is advanced a tooth or two ill post pics when there done loading.There done, here is a couple shots.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11882.jpg
I circled how it is lined up in teh large red circle, i think the small one is the actual timing mark where it needs to be lined up. It looks like some retard marked it in the wrong place, but i could be the retard and be looking at it wrong.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11879.jpg
Another shot of the cam gear, i didnt remove the bottom cover, i lined up tdc off the crank pulley, i am assuming that is accurate. It felt like it with the screw driver as well. LOL im a redneck i know.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...olvotiming.gif
That is alldatas picture.

 

Sorry to say but you should pull the crank pulley and lower cover. The crank pulleys on these are known to spin.
And what I mean by spin is the rubber drys and the outer pulley spins on the inner so if you line it up it might show being off but really isn't.

 

dammit i was worried about that, needless to say, i think the timing belt needs changed anyways. Its only 16 bucks.

 

Also another FYI if it is a continental belt it will have lines that will make sure the timing is correct.

Remember house in 39 minutes LOL

 

Im not sure what kind of belt that is, i am getting a dayco belt from work. Probably no lines. I do believe i can handle lining things up though. I hope. lol. I have done it 100's of times on other cars. But you cant be too careful. Knock on wood, i think i just jinxxd myself. All bragging and stuff. What do you have in your lx tech?

 

Well when you take everything apart make sure the back timing cover with the marks isn't falling apart(Common as well)as long as the cover is good you should be fine. If it is falling apart the mark might be off some.

The mustang right now is in the garage. A few years ago in a desperate act I put a Non-Ho motor in it.
But I have everything to convert it to a Ho motor. Also it is getting a full Cobra intake manifold and a few other goddies.

It is really nothing fancy.
It is dropped 2 inches has urethane bushings in the entire front end. I have racing seats in there. I also have flowmasters on there. I need to get a decent set of headers.

I also installed an electric cooling fan from an S80 hooked up to a temp sensor to make it come on.

I also have a jacobs ignition and performance coil on it.

Thats all I can remember at the moment. Haven't driven it in about a year or so.

 

It looked straight, the timing cover did. It wasnt in pieces, and if it is falling apart, or i break it (i cost the mazda dealership a couple crank pulleys, thats another story) Do i just need to grab another one? Or is there some other reference i can use, like on the miata, all i do is aim the cam pins at 12 o'clock. If not, just bend over and buy another one i guess. The reason i just asked about your car, is i love fox bodies. I traded my ranger for a 331 stroker kit. Im thinking about selling the kit. Because im pretty sure i dont want to make the miata a monster miata. If your looking for a stroker kit let me know. Im happy with the power it makes. You would be shocked at 280 whp in that thing.

 

Oh yeah, if i were to find a good deal on a 16v head, how hard would it be to flop it on there?

 

If the cover falls apart you need a new one. Thats the only real way to make sure it is set right.
Also since you mentioned crank pulley here is a little info on that as well. When you take it off the back of the pulley has a notch. When you go back on you need to feel and make sure it seats on the timing gear. Alot of people miss that and cause damage. Then you would need a new crank timing gear. Make sure it isn't already messed up.

Right now I couldn't afford to buy the kit if I wanted to any how. As I have said in one post I have been laid off.

For the 16V head you might want to check over on turbobricks. Search youtube and check it out.