Hello,

We're trying to raise our 94 960 to do an oil change. Being our first time to do that, we're not sure which spot at the center of the car we need to use to raise it on the floor jack and where to support it on the jack stands on the sides of the car. We just don't want to use the wrong spots and cause any damage or neglect safety. Please advise.

Thanks,
Lisa

 

We were able to raise the car and change the oil. The only unusual thing I noticed is where the oil filter is located right in the front of the car behind the serpentine belt pulley. The whole area is exposed with no shield. Does anyone know if there supposed to be a shield that covers this area?

 

Yes. That area needs a 'engine belly pan". They are plastic and they cost $ 25-30. You can buy it from FCP. There also needs to be an air-guide from the bumper opening to the Condenser. It looks like a flat box.

 

Thank you very much.
Could you please expand on the air-guide, what is the purpose of it? I don't see a gap between the bumper and the condenser, does that meant that the car has an air-guide?

 

Is the "engine belly pan" the same as the "skid plate"? I found the skid plate for $24.95 on FCP website.

 

Yep, that would be it. Not sure about the air guide.
1992-1997 Volvo 960 Skid plate

 

The bottom Air Guide (# 6 in this Diagram), along with the vertical / side air guides (# 40), direct air from bumper opening into the Condenser, and the Radiator (behind the Condenser). Condenser gets very hot when the AC is working.

Bottom Air Guide (# 6) also protects the Condenser from rocks and other road debris.

FCP can also get this for you; just give them the Part Number shown on the same Diagram.

 

Yes, it's the same thing.

 

Thank you.

 

Hello,

We've been looking under the hood for any trace of exhaust smell and we noticed a small leak of oil by the oil dipstick. There is a big hose going towards the engine coming from the air filter housing and ends with a small hose with some sort of a clamp on it. There is a small oil leak underneath that clamp. It is not a leak per say, more like a seeping. Could that small leak be the reason for the exhaust smell and what is involved to fix it.

Thank you,

 

There is NO oil in any line that goes from the air filter to the motor. The hard thing about chasing leaks is that the airflow under a hood will blow oil or any other fluid around. I doubt you can smell an exhaust leak, you may smell oil burning or some other leak. Wipe all oil from under the car, remove the splash pan, start the car and let it run with the hood open for a few minutes, turn the car off and look again. If you don't see a leak, let it sit for a few hours and look under the car, you'll have to chase it like a treasure hunt.

 

I've been reading on this issue a lot and I think we finally found information on the forum. The part that is leaking is the housing that is attached to the air intake hose on one side and the other side is attached to the flame trap hose. It is not leaking per say, it is seeping oil slowly. This may be causing the fumes that I've been smelling.
Could you please let me know how to fix or replace this part?

 

Maybe your flame trap is clogged. When oil is leaking on the motor and it burns off it does smell bad. I would simply take it apart and make sure nothing is clogged.

 

Should I take both parts apart, the part clamped to the air intake and the part clamped to the flame trap hose. Then how can I make sure that nothing is clogged? Please clarify. Thanks.

 

I think you are talking about the Throttle Body? If you can take a picture that would help.

Regardless, you can clean all those parts very easily:

- Replace Air Filter
- Clean Air Filter housing
- Replace Air Thermostat or stick something to it to keep it opened on front air intake, and closed to hose to exhaust. Not related to oil leak, but might be related to fumes.
- Mas Air Flow Sensor cleaning. Use MAF Cleaner, or dunk tip in Simply Green and then on 99% Rubbing Alcohol.
- Idle Air Control: Use Throttle Boddy Spray cleaner
- Throttle Body: Use Throttle Body Cleaner and get a new gasket ($ 1)
- Vacuum tree behind TB.

These are little jobs and should take a total of 1-2 hours.

 

Thank you I'll do that as well but the oil seep is coming from the flame trap. I confirmed the part from a previous photo posted by you. Here is the picture where the flame trap is shown. Should I just replace the flame trap parts as shown in the photo?

 

Sure. flame trap has a couple of o-rings and clamps. They might all cost $ 7 - 10 from FCP. Have you serviced/cleaned the PCV system?

 

The flame trap has an unusual clamp on it, looks like the original clamp by Volvo. I'm having a problem removing it. Is there a special tool to remove this clamp?

No, I didn't service the PCV is it the same as the flame trap?

 

It's probably a spring clamp, original. You don't need special tools, and these clamps are 1-use only. You can remove it with needle-nose pliers, or cut it with snips. You can replace it with a worm-type.

Flametrap is only one piece of the PCV system. You can go to FCP website and see a diagram of other components of the PCV.

 

I looked at the diagram. So if I'm reading it correclty, parts 7 through 14 are for the PCV, including the flametrap which is part no. 12. Is that correct?