No, all parts from 1 to 14 are the PCV system. Some people clean them, some people get them new from FCP Groton. # 1a/b is the most important part -- that is the Oil Separator / Breather Box. It has four ports/openings, two openings at hoses # 5 and # 7, and two at the block (# 3+4, # 2).

Be very careful with # 4a and 4b -- if you push them, they may fall into the oil pan, which means you need to open the pan, for which you need to remove the subframe.

If you decide to clean them, you can take # 1 thru 14 (except # 4a and # 4b) leave them in a kerosene container overnight and clean them with wires, whatever, so the crude comes off.

How to get to them -- two options:

1- Remove accessory belt, remove Power steering pump, move alternator, remove throttle cable and body.

2- Remove the intake bowl. If you go this route make sure you get a new intake gasket (about $ 6), and know about the hidden bolt at the bottom of the bowl.

Brickboard recommends Option 1. Having done both, I prefer option 2.

Thank you for the information but I think we'll have to take it in. We've been trying to take off the flametrap to clean it up but we're having hard time doing that.
I was wondering if there are any alternatives to servicing the PCV and the flametrap, like switching to synsthetic oil or using a product that cleans the engine including the PCV and the flametrap. Do you think that would work? Thanks.

That color photo of the Flame Trap & EGR is a photo that I posted the other day. You can remove those funny clamps with a small tip screw driver. I usually just get the tip of the screw driver under the tip of it and pry up. Or, like Henry said, simply clip it with tin snips or wire cutters. The neat thing about those clamps is the fact that they are very narrow/thin. Other clamps, like the one I installed is wider.

If the PCV system is plugged, it will usually toss a cel code. If there is oil coming from it, either the system is clogged or the flame trap screen is clogged. That being clogged can cause other oil leaks, some bad & expensive to repair. Get that serviced ASAP. The part that is circled in the picture #14 is the flam trap assembly. The part comes apart and you can clean or replace the screen in less than 30 minutes. You will need to clamp it back together when you take it apart.

You can spray WD40 on it. After taking it out, just twist it counter-clockwise or clock-wise (I can't remember) and it should come loose.

Some of the gunk is kinda baked into the hoses / holes, even scraping it may not clean all of it. There are products like Gunk Motor Flush or kerosene that you can try, but the problem with these products is that you can't keep them in the engine for more than 20-30 minutes.

After cleaning/replacing the PCV components, yes, synthetic oil helps in keeping it clean, but it won't dislodge the baked-in gunk.

Thank you very much.
Just to make sure I understood you correctly, regarding the flametrap: it is attached to the PCV part no. 1 by hose no. 7 and clamp no. 8 and clamped to the air intake by clamp no. 14. To take it out I need to remove both clamps after spraying them with WD40, then twist the plastic piece no. 10 to open it up and clean it and clean or replace its components no. 11 12 & 13. Is that correct? Sorry for the novice questions. Thanks.

The flame trap unit is #9 - #12. You twist #12 off of #9. #10 is the actual flame trap screen that can be cleaned or replaced. #10 cost about $1.50.

# 14 is the group of parts that make out the Flame Trap Assembly.

Thank you.

We were able to finally take the flame trap apart and found out that is not plugged and the leak was due to the rubber ring no. 10. The rubber ring was hardened and turned into plastic and was not sealing properly. We changed it with a new ring and the leak is now history.
Thank you all very much

Unfortunatly, the fumes did not go away, but we found out that a coolant hose going into the fire wall, maybe for the heater, has a very slow leak. This hose is right next to the vents by the windshield.
Could the coolant leak be causing fumes that is making me sick coming through the vents inside the car? We'll replace this hose anyway. We did not notice any significant loss of coolant from the reservoir so we hope this is a good sign. Your thoughts please.

I doubt that's the culprit. However that hose leaking can cause some damage. First, it leaks right over the transmission electrical harnesses. Secondly, a slow leak can suddenly burst, and if the car is still being driven, it can result in overheating and real damage.

Have you serviced the cooling system?

My mechanic looked at the car in general for safety when he replace the timing belt and water pump and never mentioned the coolant leak. It is so small that you one can miss it easily. I saw it and smelled the coolant through the air vent inside the car.
It is a problem here in California finding a good reasonable mechanic. They are are all very expensive.
I'll take it in again.