96 Volvo 960 I believe it is radiator drain plug leaking?
#1
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I am losing antifreeze at a fast rate whenever I am driving. A trip of 20 miles will drain the little plastic tank that you fill up. I know it is dripping out pretty fast at the little drain thing on the radiator. It had a little rubber plug over it with a clamp you tighten up with a nut driver. I don't know if it is rigged or what. Is there something I can do to plug that little metal pipe? I tried silicon but it started leaking right back again. What can I do to stop it from leaking there?
Starting to really hate this car. I bought it 6 months ago and have had multiple problems. (Window stopped working, sunroof stopped working, gas gauge doesn't work, antifreeze leaking, oil leaking somewhere, has 133000 miles and gets about 15 mpg).
Starting to really hate this car. I bought it 6 months ago and have had multiple problems. (Window stopped working, sunroof stopped working, gas gauge doesn't work, antifreeze leaking, oil leaking somewhere, has 133000 miles and gets about 15 mpg).
#2
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I'd love to take it off your hands.
I believe the rad drain should only be finger tight. You can try to install a new plug to see that fixes it. If not, you will likely have to replace it.
The multiple electrical issues are likely a bad ignition switch. More info on that in the S90 section.
I believe the rad drain should only be finger tight. You can try to install a new plug to see that fixes it. If not, you will likely have to replace it.
The multiple electrical issues are likely a bad ignition switch. More info on that in the S90 section.
#3
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Is that why it chimes when driving. A constant steady chime that never stops. I thought maybe it was the SRS light causing it. I believe I payed way too much for this car. Where can you find a drain plug (link please) The ones I look at look like nothing that is on it. Thanks
Last edited by MrReality; 04-03-2013 at 06:49 AM.
#4
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It's probably an after market radiator. Sad situation. You can post a picture of it and we can go from there. You may have to replace the rad.
Every 960 I owned had a problem with the ignition. You can turn the key back a little after the car starts. It didn't bother me but some people it does.
Every 960 I owned had a problem with the ignition. You can turn the key back a little after the car starts. It didn't bother me but some people it does.
#5
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I am going to try that. I'll try to get a picture on here this afternoon. The main reason I won't fix the gas gauge is that I hate working with cars and I don't feel like dropping the gas tank.
Do you have any idea why it accelerates so slowly? I am kindof scared when pulling out into traffic because it just kindof slowly speeds up.
Do you have any idea why it accelerates so slowly? I am kindof scared when pulling out into traffic because it just kindof slowly speeds up.
Last edited by MrReality; 04-03-2013 at 07:23 AM.
#6
#7
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This is not a drain, or a plug. This is a line that has been capped off with a universal cap which any parts place should have. But it could be the actual pipe leaking at the weld point. And it beats me what this line is supposed to go--it sure did not come from Volvo like that. This is at the bottom, right?
#8
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That little cap in the picture is in the middleish area on the left side (outside of car perspective) When it runs if you touch that cap it will squirt antifreeze but once the car is off I really can't see anything. It isn't really a line. It is just a little metal pipe about an inch sticking out of the radiator when the cap is off. Trying to figure out a way to plug it. Still leaks even when trying to block it with silicon.
#10
#14
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Re the cap/plug: This wouldn't be the top of the radiator, would it? If it is, I am pretty sure this is the line that goes via a hose to the overflow tank.
Re the CEL: a '96 960 should be OBDII meaning that you need an OBD Scanner to get the stored malfunction codes. Some parts stores offer to read them for "free". Shops charge a nominal fee. Or you can buy a scanner for less than a $100--it pays for itself as it is usable on any post 1996 car sold in the US for reading codes and erasing CELights.
Re the CEL: a '96 960 should be OBDII meaning that you need an OBD Scanner to get the stored malfunction codes. Some parts stores offer to read them for "free". Shops charge a nominal fee. Or you can buy a scanner for less than a $100--it pays for itself as it is usable on any post 1996 car sold in the US for reading codes and erasing CELights.
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