I have a chance to purchase a 1992 Volvo 960 very cheap with a bad timing belt. I have changed timing belts before so it did not concern me much, but I did not know the motor was an interference motor when I spoke to the seller. I have not purchased the car yet and want to have an idea what I am getting into before I go through with the purchase.

What questions do I ask the seller? If the timing belt broke while it was being driven, what is the best case senario? What is the worse case senario I am looking at?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

If the car with a "Broken" timing belt is a 6 cyl DOHC ( double Over Head Cam), even if the engine was just idling when it broke, a piston hit valves and damage was done. I know someone who's belt broke when trying to start the car and valves got bent.

On the other hand, if the car has a 4 cyl then your OK. I don't know if 960s where ever issued with 4 cylinder engines. I do know that 760 where available with the 4 cyl...

Hope this helps... TTFN, Dwain

 

I would say you are looking at Bent valves.

 

This has the 6 cylinder. I am getting the car for $400 as it sits. IfI knew it was just the valves, that does not scare me too much. I will still have a decent car relatively cheap. You guys that have had the heads redone, about how much am I looking at. I was figuring about $600 by the time I was done for parts and labor.

Is there anyway to assess the damage without pulling the motor apart? So, when I go to pick up the car, what can I look for that would be a dead clue that the pistons are damaged?

Edit: I should aso add that the rest of the car is in very good shape. No rust, no dents, good paint, good interior, no rips in the interior, etc... And I am told that everything works except the timing belt.

 

Sorry but you need to pull the head.
Im not 100% sure but I think the valves are close to $50.00 each.
So you might be looking at a little more depending on how bad it is.

 

Thanks for the help. Until I pull the head to verify, I will assume some of the valves are bent. Would I be Ok to pick up a used head from a salvage yard? What models or motors can I look for to pull a head from? WillI need a '92 or '93 Volvo 960 or was this motor/head used in other years/models?

Also, will a compression test on the cylinders confirm whether or not there is a bent valve? Not trying to be a pain, just looking forward to my new project.

 

Yes a compression test will tell you if they are bent. Thats after you go through the trouble of setting it all up and putting a belt on.

I think you will need a 92 only head a 93 might work depending on the motor in the car. I know the real early 92's were the 92's only.

I also think there is like 3 different 92 motors.

 

Great, thanks. I am making a game plan here. Good info on the motor. I will just wait and get the numbers off the block before calling around. Are there any large online distributors of used Volvo parts?I have used car-parts.com for my Jeep before, but searches for Volvo parts on there just timed out.

 

Check in the pinned post about links to sites I think there is a couple in there.
I just forget the names of the places.

 

If you buy it, you'll have a big $400 paperweight....

Seriously, this is a big job, so just be prepared for it. I GUARANTEE you have bent valves, at least. That's why they emphasize to change the timing belt when it's supposed to be changed....it's a disaster otherwise.

 

I almost have my 960 back together, but I need a little advice. I am swapping the cam gears over to the rebuilt head from the old head. I did not realize they were not keyed until I took them off the old head. How do I know what position to install the cam gears on rebuilt head? I see no way of knowing what position they bolt up. I guess I have a 30% chance of getting it right?

 

Sadly you will need to find the cam lock tool that screws to the back of the cams.
The tool holds it in the proper position then you can put it back on where it belongs.

 

Do you have a part number or something I can look for? When you mention Volvo at any autoparts around here they look at you like a deer staring into headlights. I will just buy the tool if I can find it somewhere.

 

Hmmm. Does the head need to come back off for this? It looks too close to the firewall to get anything to the back of the cam.

 

I don't have the part# off hand and yes it will fit back there without taking anything back off. Well you need to remove the cam sensor.

It looks like the tool with the arrow pointing to it.

 

Well I have the tools to try and align the cams on this bad boy. Wish me luck, I hope to have it back together this weekend.

 

Good luck!!!!!

 

OK, I need a little more help. Or atleast some assurance I am doing it right. I have the cams figured out. With the proper tools it was not that hard. But I have a question about the crankshaft. When I align the timing marks on the crank, the #1 piston is not at TDC (atleast not what I would consider top dead center). It's close, but not exactly at top. Is this normal? I want to make sure this is right before I button this motor back up again.

So, if I make sure the #1 piston is on the up stroke, and align the timing marks on the crank, is it normal for the #1 piston to not be quite at the top?

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

 

Yes that is normal.

 

SHE RUNS! It took a while and some hand holding, but it is back together and running.