We just bought a 1995 960. I replaced the battery, struts, and pnp switch. My wife was going down the road and it quit on her. The check engine light came on and now it will turn over but idles really rough and then shuts off again. I found what looks like a vaccuum hose that is right above the MAF sensor and it isn't attached to anything and I don't know where or what it attaches to.I need help with where that goes.It looks like there are 2 vaccuum lines that are together, 1 is attached and the other isn't.Could this be the culprit of what is wrong?BTW, the pnp switch didn't help with the upshift arrow on the dashboard.Someone please advise.Thanks

 

From you description is hard to determine what you are talking about. You should really follow the vacuum diagram (on the right shock tower).

Next to the MAF there are a bunch of vacuum lines that come off the vacuum tree (intake). Anything can be loose.

One of the vacuum line goes to the fuel pressure regulator. Maybe this came off?

 

Thanks. I will try that. Next thing and probably is related is that there is a strong gas smell after starting up the car, almost like there is a leak but there isn't any evidence of gas leaking underneath the car, just a very strong gas smell.And again, the gas gauge seems to be working sometimes and other times not.

 

Where is the gas smell coming from?

Gas Gauge is a known problem on these cars. Sometimes is the sender (rusted wires), in other cases it is gauge on the Instrument Panel itself.

In my case, I found the problem at the gauge at the IP. I have tried a few things, including soldering things at the back of the cluster, but hasn't helped. The most reliable fix for me is a small bang of the dashboard above the IP, which makes the needle jump to where it should be. Duh!! If yours does the same thing, the most likely it is not the sender.

 

I don't know where the gas smell is coming from but you can smell it immediately after crankiing the car and it's almost unbearable. My wife put $40 in and went about 80 miles and ran out. But there is no evidence of a gas leak.

 

You gotta be able to tell if the smell comes from the front of car, or rear, or middle section of the car.

 

comes from the middle more or less.It's stronger in the car than under the hood.but you can smell it in the house from the garage after it has been cranked.

 

The fuel filter is there. Maybe one of the two lines (quick-connects) got loosened or may be even ripped.

 

Thanks. I'll try that out.

 

It isn't the fuel filter. It is a fuel leak though coming from under the hood somewhere. I couldn't tell where. I followed the fuel line from the filter and can see where gas is coming fromsomewhere around the fuel rail.

 

I would not drive this until it is repaired, a couple of things, the fuel rail has a plug on the front end that can leak with age and time. That is a known problem on some vehicles.

The other is maybe the fuel rail is loose, or there is a bad seal on the end of one of the injectors.

But I would not use the car until you fix this, and don't diagnose it in your garage.

Good luck,

DanR '94 964 35,000 miles (122,000 on the new engine)

 

I agree with what Dan said.

Cap is not replaceable or repairable. New Fuel fuel rail is needed from Volvo. This is an updated version and the cap problems seems corrected.

New fuel rail is about $ 125-150.

 

O.K. Something new on this 960.Had the check engine light checked and cleared.Codes said it was something to do with the Maf Sensor and one code had the ECM computer being faulty. I replaced the ECM computer and the MAF Sensor frm parts from the junkyard. Check engine light came back on and the car runs fine, except I can be going down the road and it will lose power.Then it won't start.I can let it sit (usually overnight) and then it will crank right up and run fine for about 30-40 miles and then it will shut off again. What Gives?

 

Not sure if you replaced the leaking rail. What is the status of stage 0?

 

I have replaced the fuel pump,injectors and injector seals and that fixed the gas smell.I now just have the car going along fine down the road and then it will lose power, the lights across the board will come on and the engine will shut off and I have to let it sit before it will crank again(sometimes if not all the time over night).Any Suggestions?

 

I brought up 2 points (fuel rail and Stage 0). You only answered one. We might help you better if you provide Stage 0 info.

Do you have a wiring diagram? You might have a short somewhere. What is your fuel psi?

 

What is stage 0?

 

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/what-is-stage-0.html

 

henry10,

you have one hot lil wagon there bud, what kind of mods have you done to her performance wise? or are these cars just "look cool cruisers" with some body cleaning, rims paint etc?

im not looking for 500+ hp and 3G cornering capabilities but nothing stock is fun lol - -if you havnt done anything over stock what could be done

again beautiful wagon Sir !!!

--- in the process of regaining Stage 0 on mine

 

Nothing performance-wise, and don't intend to. This is my city beater. it's functional, 7-seater, if anything happens in the city (which it will) -- it's a great throwaway car. Another one can be had cheap. This in fact replaced my 850 which got destroyed last winter in the snow.

I got other toys, although some are being replaced now. As I grow older I am getting more interested in other upgrades, such as electronics, audio-visual, alternative fuels (maybe LPG? or electric?). My dad was an oil guy (Chevron for 45 years), so I have the "energy" DNA in me. Plus I am also in Energy Efficiency Buildings business myself, and these things intrigue me. Cutting edge energy sources -- these things fascinate me.

Back on the wagon:

This wagon got cleaned up, but still needs a few more things.

About power mods:

These motors are dialed back, but can be awaken with some intake and exhaust. From talking with other people as well, you can get at least another 50 hp without opening the motor.

A few guys have put in LS corvettes V8 for low 300s whp. Another fella did dual turbo on a S80 (similar motor) for 400.

Suspension: nothing much can be done, unless willing to spend $$$$, for lowering.

You can read some of these projects on Turbobricks.