Hi to all that wish to throw in their experience.
I've been building this 1993 960 SW for quite some time now, and have come across many minor parts availability issues. As I've been working on the tail lamps, I've discovered that cheap replacement lamp covers are NOT the way to go, as the normal filament bulbs will get too hot and melt the casing, causing problems. So, I have purchased LED bulbs to diminish the heat and cut down on the melting problem. lol.
I have the chiltons manual, and have printed out copies of the OEM wiring diagram. After following the wiring diagram, making any repairs needed to the old wires, and wiring both lamps (left and right) correctly, I have now come across a weird problem. (i knew that i was getting a cluster warning lamp regarding a brake light issue, thus me rebuilding the set up) The third brake light is operating fine. The left side running light/brake is operating fine, but the right side running light will not illuminate, and the brake will not illuminate. The thing is, I've used my light tester, and i get power through the circuit all the way to the bulb node itself. I've switched bulbs with the left side (which i know that bulb was good, as it works on the left lamp), and behold, not illuminating. But still has power to the wires, the lamp housing, and the rear node of the bulb. This is questioning my sanity! Is the lamp control unit faulty? Will power still go to the bulbs if the Control Unit is bad? Is it merely a "signal" coming from the Control Unit that is causing a problem? seems odd. Maybe my 960 exists only in a 4th dimension in my driveway, and won't allow me to find this problem. She is a female car, Harriet, and can be stubborn at times. But loves when i upgrade stuff and clean her up nice for an afternoon summer drive. But, she needs operational running and brake lights, or the po-po will ticket us. grrrrr.

 

You need to put the aftermarket LED kits in the trash and source OEM tail lights. If the bulbs melt the casings, then return them for warranty credit. Frankly, I've never seen one do this.

If you check this link, you can find decent tail lamps. If they turn out to be junk, then return them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...p+assembly,807

The system is designed for a certain amount of amps to draw and without that draw it will throw the warning. Stick with original designs.

 

Tony1963--- I didn't purchase an LED "kit". I purchased OEM style replacement tail lamp housings, without bulbs.. just simple OEM style replacements. When receiving them the first thing I noticed is the "made in Estonia" label. lol- had a bad gut feeling from that point on. But, I bought them and what the hell, try using them. I used the volvo OEM bulb sockets, and OEM bulbs.
I still had the issue with the right side running light/brake light being in-op. So, as I took them apart to clean and go through all the wiring, to make sure all was as it should be, I noticed the burning to the rear of lamp case, where the bulb sockets twist into the case and apply power through the metal contacts. The 1157 bulbs were getting hot, normal, right? but I wanted to lower the heat from the bulbs. So, i purchased LED "bulbs", available from many aftermarket companies, I chose the sylvania brand. decent reputation with quality. Part of it was that sylvania stated the exact reason i was in search of, low heat. tried them out, same problem. No melting. but, still the right side in-op, no running lights/brake lights. I also, noticed today that the left directional is in-op(bulb is good,tested), but, the right directional works good. Like I was saying, weird. I think i will seek a good universal lamp control and try wiring that up. Thanks for your thoughts. appreciate it.